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Besidence of Ira Brown, Esq., at Norwood Park. 



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$100 



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Will Buy a Beautiful Lot at Norwood Park, 

80 feet above Lake and 6 miles from Chicago. Cheapest lots in market. Good 
Sidewalks, Store, Hotel, Churches, Schools, and the beautiful growth of 
trees makes the whole village one entire park. Terms: $16 down and $5 
monthly. Cheap railroad fare, with 30 trains a day. Will furnish lumber to 
build without money down. Lots shown free any pleasant day. Abstract 
free. These prices will only last a few days. 

I also have lots in Glencoe at the same price and terms. 



142 La Salle Street, Room 4, 



ic~4 



The Great Rock Island 



COOK BOOK 



comprising a 

Carefully Compiled Selection of the Most Useful Recipes 

and Other Valuable Information in the 

Culinary Art. 

Many famous Cooks and Caterers, havmg contributed their favorite formulae, 
which are now given to the public for the first time. 






^TvT 



WITH THE GREATEST RESPECT THIS BOOK IS 

Sleiricatelr to the lUomen of America, 

By the General Ticket and Passenger Department of the Chicago, 
Rock Island & Pacific Railway. 



Entered according to Act of Congress in the year iSS4i 

By B . F. B A B C O C K , 

In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 






CHICAGO: 

The J. M. W. Jones Stationery and Printing Company* 

1884. 



NO POISON IN THE PASTRY 

DR. PRICE'SV 



SPECIAL FL 






ARE USED. 

Vanilla y Lemon, Orange, Flavor Cakes, Creams, Pud- 
dings, as delicious and natural as the fruit 
from which they are made. 

For Strength, Purity and True Fruit Flavor They Stand Alone. 



^Light Healthy Breads 

USE 

ID 13. ZPISICZETS 

Lupulin Yeast Gems 

THE BEST DRY HOP YEAST IN THE WORLD. 

Bread raised by this yeast it light, white and wholesome, 
like our Grandmother's delicious bread. 

Ask your Grocer for Dr. Price's Lupulin Yeast Gems. 

Lupulin is the active principle of hops. 



NOTICE.— Dr. Price's Cook Book, full of good things for everybody, 
Kent by mail, free of charge, by addressing 



DR. V. C. PRICE, Chicago. 



The Hartford Sewing Macliine 

The most lavishly decorated; the largest under 
arm; positive or spring take-up as desired; free 
from vibration. 

OUR MOTTO FOR FIFTEEN YEARS, 

Simple, Capable, Durable. 

AGENTS WANTED, TERRITORY PROTECTED. 

Send for Descriptive Circulars, Terms, etc. 



Ball Bearing Balance Wheel, Knife-Edge 
Treadle Bearing, Self-Setting Needle, Patent 
Belt Replaeer, A Galaxy of New Patents, 
Artistic Designs of Wood Work. 

GENERAL WESTERN OFFICE, 

&5eed Sewing (Qaghine (So. 

179 MICHIGAN AVENUE (LELAND HOTEL), 
WM. M. DURELL, Manager, 

(shigago, III. 



Office of the New Gas Company, 

94 DEARBORN STREET. 



THE CONSUMERS 

G-as Fnel^Liglit Co. 



OF CHICAGO, ILLINOIS, 

Solicit the patronage of the Public, and hope by fair 
dealing and courteous treatment to obtain it. v 

They are offering their beautiful Gas, which is free from 
sulphur compounds and other impurities, and which will 
not smoke the ceilings, at 

$ 1.25 Per 1,000 Cubic Feet net 

They make no charge for services or setting meters. 

They require no deposits. 

They will make contracts for five years at the above 
price per i,ooo. 

They believe in giving a good Gas at a low price. 

The public, in sustaining them, are pro- 
tecting their own interests. 



INTRODUCTION. 



" In compelling man to eat, that he may live, 
Nature gives appetite to invite and pleasure to reward him." — Brilliat-Savarin. 

EPICURUS, the Greek philosopher, taught that "the great end 
and aim of life was to eat," which doctrine was so far accepted 
by the luxurious Romans at a later period, as to call forth the 
denunciations of Cicero in the Senate, warning them that it would lead 
to the effeminacy of the nation. Whether or not the fall of the great 
Roman Empire can be attributed to the appetites of its citizens, it is 
unquestioned that they certainly loved to eat, as instance the fabulous 
sums expended at their banquets, where peacocks' tongues, humming- 
birds on toast, and other equally expensive dainties were consumed and 
fortunes lavished. The pleasures of the table since that time have been 
the first indulgence of all civilized nations. 

To prepare food in the best and most wholesome manner with 
economy, celerity and taste, is a science in which the French especially 
excel; being the result of the collective ingenuity and skill of persons, 
who, as chefs, have given it the study of their lives. It may be said that 
they literally waste nothing, as some method is provided for utilizing 
much that in an American kitchen, either through ignorance or care- 
lessness, is destroyed. 

The words of the late Prof. Blot, founder of the New York Cooking 
Academy, in his advice to cooks, were: " Be careful, clean and punc- 
tual. Make use of everything good. Waste nothing, however little it 
may be. Have no prejudices/' 

In presenting this little work to the housewives of America, its pro- 
jectors are not possessed with the idea that the subject of cookery has 
not already received great attention; indeed, as the old adage teaches, 
" too many cooks spoil the broth," it maybe said that there are already 
too many; but it is thought that this humble tribute to culinary litera- 
ture will, by its arrangement and careful compilation, add something of 
value to the subject. 

In selecting the recipes, under the different headings and sub- 
divisions, the aim has been to give only those which have been prac- 
tically tested, derived from the best authorities, or from cooks skilled 
in the profession. Many have also been obtained through the courtesy 
of friends who have contributed favorite recipes, and are now for the 
first time published. Credit has been given, however, only when de- 
rived from public source*. 



The object being to adapt it more to the household, it has not been 
considered as within its province to cater to the epicure, hence the more 
elaborate, highly seasoned, or costly dishes, with few exceptions, have 
been omitted. 

As our efforts have been directed to serve the new as well as the 
more mature housekeeper, and with the view to economy in the pur- 
chase of the multifarious articles comprising " household supplies," there 
are presented notes y more or less extended, preceding the recipes of 
each division, giving, concisely as possible, information relating to the 
selection or keeping of provisions, regarding adulterations, or general 
directions as to modes. In many cases, also, the basis for forming a 
great number of dishes or productions have been given, instead of 
numerous distinct recipes, leaving it to the taste or ingenuity of the 
intelligent housewife to produce those — by the variation of ingredients 
or process — best suited to the season, the purse or occasion. With the 
same view, also, several recipes have in many cases been given for the 
same dish. 

Believing the work would prove of more value thereby, greater 
attention has been bestowed on substantiate. Much less room has been 
allotted to cake, pastry, pickles, preserves, etc., than to meats, fish, 
poultry or vegetables ; while to bread-making and its concomitants 
considerable space has been afforded. 

It is thought that the plan of consecutively numbering the recipes 
will prove convenient, as well as the classified index at the back of the 
book. 

Should even our efforts so far have succeeded as to aid the women 
of our country in preparing more acceptable dishes, or at less expendi- 
ture, and thus adding to their material wealth, our task will be but 
imperfectly fulfilled without at the same time reminding them as well 
as the traveling public that 

The Great Rock Island Route 

WTH ITS SUPERB EQUIPMENT OP 

ELEGANT COACHES, PALATIAL SLEEPING, 

Liuxu^iANm Dining and Sasy I^eglining-@hai^ ©ai^s, 

Its Safety Appliances! Smooth Steel Tracks and Reliable Connections, 

Is preeminently the best, not only for all points located upon, but beyond it. 



^ThE Great Medical WnnriEiy^ 



Hamlin's Wizard Oil, 

FOR INTERNAL AND EXTERNAL USE. 



The great reputation which this remedy has attained, must be attributed 
solely to its real value. A worthless medicine, when stimulated by adver- 
tising, will sell for a time ; bur, as soon as allowed to depend upon solid merit, 
it drops out f the market entirely. This is not the case with Hamlin's 
Wizard Oil. When once introduced into any section of country, it never 
dies oat. Its sale is constantly increasing, and at the present time has 
assumed such proportions as to justify us in the assertion that it has never 
been equaled by any other remedy. 

In almost every city, town, or village, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pa- 
cific, and from the State of Maine to the Gulf of Mexico, Hamlin's Wizard 
Oil is known and appreciated, and in thousands of families has become a 
household necessity. The large number of remarkable cures which have 
been performed through the instrumentality of this great remedy, are unparal- 
leled in the history of medicine. Hundreds of supposed cripples for life, and 
sufferers who have languished upon beds of sickness, receiving no aid from 
physicians, testify to its wonderful healing properties. 

It not only allays inflammation, and stops the most excruciating pains, 
but it performs radical and permanent cures. It is safe and sure, does its 
work quickly and effectually, and is just the article needed in every family. 

^ ajsv (^ T? "R Fv ^ 

Rheumatism in from one to six days; Neuralgic Pains in ten minutes; Head- 
ache or Earache in ten minutes; Toothache in one minute; Sore Throat in 
three hours; Diphtheria in twelve hours ; Fever and Ague in one day; Pain 
in the Back or Side in thirty minutes; Contracted Cords and Muscles, and all 
Painful Swellings and Tumors, Sprains, Bruises, Cuts, Burns and Scalds, Ulcers, 
Fever Sores, Cramp-Colic, Diarrhoea and Cholera Morbus, Dyspepsia, Inflam- 
mation of the Kidneys, Catarrh in the Head, Deafness, Stiff and Enlarged 
Joints, and all Diseases of an Inflammatory Nature. 

Unequaled for Burns and Scalds. 

PREPARED AT THE LABORATORY OF 

HAMLINS WIZARD OIL CO., CHICAGO, ILL 

PRICE, 50 CENTS AND $1.00 PER BOTTLE. 

FOR SALE BY ALL DRUGGISTS. 



FERMENTUM 

THE ONLY RELIABLE 

COMPRESSED YEAST 

Is produced from No. 1 Grain, and Manufactured 
only by the 

RlVERDALE DlST. COMPANY 



OFFICE AND WAREHOUSE: 

264 to 270 Kinzie Street, 
CHICAGO, ILLS. 

A. JUNKER, - - - General Agent. 



To produce the lightest and best BREAD, BISCUIT, or ROLLS, use 
"FERMENTUM" and the following- RECIPES: 

WHEAT BREAD— ( for 4 Loaves )— Thoroughly dissolve a Cake of Fermentum in a pint 
of lukewarm water ; stir in sifted flour until it forms a thick batter as for Cakes ; set in a 
warm place until it rises and begins to settle ; than add to this spouge a quart of lukewarm 
water, a tablespoon salt, two of sugar, the same of butter, with sifted flour to make a dough 
as soft as can be handled, and knead it well. Set it to rise and when thoroughly light knead 
it thoroughly again, form into loaves and place in greased pans for final rising. When suffi- 
ciently light, hike in a moderately quick oven. When baked, cool the loaves by standing them 
on ends, leaning against each other, in a cool place. 

BISCUITS OR ROLLS.— Use a half cake of Fermentum to each quart of flour; dissolve 
it thoroughly ; add the flour and mould at once ; set in a warm place and bake in a brisk 
oven as soon as light. 

Ask your Grocer for FERMENTUM, and accept no other Yeast or Raising- Com- 
pound whatever. FOR SALE EVERYWHERE. 



BREAD. 



1. Stock Yeast — Boil three ounces hops in three quarts water 
for half an hour. Put a handful of dry sifted flour into a stone jar, 
and scald it with enough of the hop water to make a stiff paste and set 
aside. Let the rest of the hop water boil slowly for an hour and a half, 
strain it on the paste without stirring, and set aside to cool. When 
blood-warm add a small handful of malt, mix well; tie a cotton cloth 
over it and let it stand untouched in a moderately cool place, for forty- 
eight hours; then bottle, and keep in a cool, dark cellar. 

2. Stock Yeast — On Monday morning boil one pint hops in 
two gallons water for half an hour, strain into a crock and let it 
become lukewarm, add two even teaspoons salt and half a pint best 
brown sugar, mix half a pint flour smooth with some of the liquor, and 
stir all well together. On Wednesday add three pounds boiled and 
mashed potatoes, stir well, and let stand until Thursday, then strain and 
put in jugs, but for the first day or two leave the corks loose. Stir the 
yeast occasionally while making and keep near the fire. It should be 
made two weeks before using, and will be improved by age. Keep it in 
a cool place, and shake the jug before pouring from it — but with the cork 
out — holding the palm of the hand over the mouth. 

3. Potato Yeast— Peel and boil four or five large potatoes, 
mash them fine, add a tablespoon of flour,. a pinch each of sugar and 
salt, and when blood-warm add one and a half gills of the stock yeast, 
and let it ferment six hours, when it will be ready for use. 

4. Potato Yeast — Take as many hops as can be grasped in 
the hand twice, put half a gallon water over them in a new coffee pot 
kept for that purpose, boil slowly for one hour. Do not tie them in a 
cloth to boil, as the above is a superior method. Pare and grate half 
a dozen large potatoes into a two-gallon stone crock, add a half cup 
sugar and a tablespoon each of salt and ginger, pour over this a half 
gallon of the boiling hop water, stirring all the time. When milk-warm 
add one cup good lively yeast, set in a warm place until it rises, and 
then remove to the cellar or some cool place. The hop water must be 
added to the potatoes immediately, or they will darken and discolor 
the yeast. To prevent them from darkening, the potatoes may be 
grated into a pan half filled with cold water, as they will sink to the 
bottom ; when done grating, pour off the water and add the boiling 
hop water. This is a valuable recipe, and the manner of boiling the 
hop water is especially recommended. 

5. Potato Yeast without Hops — Take four good-sized 
potatoes, peeled, boiled and mashed, four tablespoons white sugar, one 
of ginger, one of salt, and two cups flour ; pour over this a pint of 



IO 

boiling water, and beat until all the lumps disappear. After it has 
cooled sufficiently add to it one cup good yeast, and set away to rise; 
when it has risen put in a glass or stone jar, cover and set it away in a 
cool place for use. 

6. Hop Yeast — Boil a large handful of hops in two quarts 
water for twenty minutes; strain one half of it on three pints of sifted 
flour, and when the other half is cool, mix slowly with the paste; stir 
in half a pint of fresh, strong brewers' yeast, or use yeast of a previous 
making; bottle and cork loosely, and let it ferment until it ceases to 
work; next day cork tightly, and set in a cool cellar. Make fresh every 
week. 

7. Yeast Cake — Boil half a pound of hops in one gallon water 
until reduced to two quarts; strain it, mix in wheat flour enough to 
make a thin batter, and add half a pint of fresh, strong yeast. When 
fermented, work with Indian meal to a stiff dough. Cover and set in 
a warm place to rise. When light, roll into a sheet an inch thick, and 
cut into small cakes, three inches across, spread them on a platter, and 
dry in a cool shade. Turn them several times a day, and when dry, 
put them in paper bags, and set in a closely covered box, and keep 
cool in a perfectly dry place. Use one cake for four quarts flour. 

8. To Cool Bread — Bread should be always carefully cooled 
before being put away, especially if kept in a tight box or crock, and 
for this purpose a board should be kept- — oaken being the best, as being 
solid and odorless — cover with a white flannel cloth, and over this 
spread a fresh linen bread cloth. Place the bread upon this, crust- 
side up, and cover with some thin material to keep off the flies. Place 
in a cool airy place. Bread cooled in this manner will have a fine soft 
crust, and remain light and wholesome. 

9. Hop Yeast Bread — One tea cup yeast, three pints warm 
water; make a thin sponge at tea time, cover and let it remain two 
hours, or until very light. By adding water to the flour first, and hav- 
ing the sponge quite warm, it is never necessary to put it over hot water 
or in an oven to make it rise. Knead into a loaf before going to bed; in 
the morning mold into three loaves, spread a little lard between as they 
are put in the pan. When light, bake one hour, having the oven quite 
hot when the bread is put in, and very moderate when it is done. Bread 
made in this manner is never sour or heavy. 

Biscuit of same Sponge — To have fine, light biscuit, add to a por- 
tion pi the sponge for bread shortening at night, and in the morning 
make into biscuit, and bake for breakfast. 

10. Twice-Raised Bread — Measure out four quarts of sifted 
flour, take out a pint in a cup and place the balance in a bread-pan ; 
make a hole in the heap of flour, into which turn one tablespoon of 
sugar, one of salt and one cup of yeast, previously mixed with the pint 
of flour, then mix in one pint of milk which has been made blood warm 
by adding one pint of boiling water; beat well with a strong spoon, add 
one tablespoon lard, knead for twenty or thirty minutes and let it rise 



ft 

over night; in the morning knead again and make into loaves; let them 
raise one hour and bake fifty minutes. 

Water may be used instead of the pint of milk, in which case use 
twice as much lard. 

11. Boston Brown Bread — One pint each of rye or Graham 
and Indian meal, one cup molasses, three-fourths cup sour milk, one 
and a half teaspoo.ns soda, one and a half pints cold water; put on 
stove over cold water, which gradually bring to a boil; steam for four 
hours and place in the oven to brown over. All steam-cooked breads 
are the better for the above method of steaming. 

12. Boston Brown Bread — Two cups white flour, two of 
Graham flour, one cup Indian meal, one teaspoon soda, one cup mo- 
lasses, three and a half cups milk, a little salt. Beat well and steam 
for five hours. 

13. Corn Bread (Of the St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans)— Beat 
two eggs very light ; mix with them one pint either sour or butter- 
milk, and one pint yellow sifted Indian meal. Melt one tablespoon of 
butter with one teaspoon of salt and add to the mixture. Dissolve 
one teaspoon soda in a small portion of the milk and add the last thing. 
Beat all up very hard and bake in a pan in a brick oven for about three- 
quarters of an hour. 

14. Corn Bread — One pint corn meal, one-half teaspoon soda, 
one teaspoon cream tartar, one-half teaspoon salt, one egg^ and milk 
enough to form a stiff batter. Bake in a hot oven. The tins in which 
you bake should be hot and well greased before putting in the batter. 

15. Corn Bread — One pint corn meal, sifted; one pint wheat 
flour, one pint sour milk, two eggs beaten lightly, half a cup sugar, a 
piece of butter size of an egg; add lastly one teaspoon soda in a little 
milk; add to the beaten egg the milk and meal alternacely, then the 
butter and sugar. If sweet milk. is used, add one teaspoon cream- 
tartar. Bake for twenty minutes in a hot oven. 

16. Steamed Corn Bread — Two cups each of Indian meal, 
Graham flour and sour milk, two-thirds cup of molasses, one teaspoon 
soda. Mix well and steam two hours and a half. 

17. Boston Corn Bread — One cup of sweet milk, two of sour 
milk, two-thirds cup of molasses, one of wheat flour, four of corn meal 
and two teaspoons soda ; steam for three hours, and brown a few 
minutes in the oven. 

18. Graham Bread — Use a little over a quart of warm water, 
one-half cup brown sugar or molasses, one-fourth cup hop yeast, and 
one and a half teaspoons salt; thicken the water with unbolted flour to 
a thin batter; add sugar, salt and yeast, and stir in more flour until 
quite stiff. In the morning add a small teaspoon soda, and flour enough 
to make a batter as stiff as can be stirred with a spoon; put it into pans, 
and let rise again; then bake in an even hot oven, not too hot at first; 
keep warm when rising; smooth over each loaf with a knife or spoon 
dipped in hot water. 



12 

19. Rye and Indian Bread— One quart rye meal or rye flour, 
two quarts Indian meal, scalded (by placing in a pan and pouring over 
it just enough boiling water to merely wet it, but not enough to make it 
into a batter, stirring constantly with a spoon), one-half cup molasses, 
two teaspoons salt, one of soda, one tea cup yeast; make it as stiff as 
can be stirred with a spoon, mixing with warm water, and let rise all 
night; then put it in a large pan, smooth the top with the hand dipped 
in cold water; let it stand a short time, and bake five or six hours, It 
put in the oven late in the day, let it remain all night. 

Graham may be used instead of rye, and baked as above. 

This is similar to the "Rye and Injun " of our grandmother's days, 
but that was placed in a kettle, allowed to rise, then placed in a covered 
iron pan upon the hearth before the fire, with coals heaped upon the 
lid, to bake all night. 

20. Rye Bread — Make a sponge of one quart warm water, 
one tea-cup yeast thickened with rye flour ; put in a warm place to rise 
over night. Scald one pint corn meal ; when cool add it to the sponge. 
Add rye flour until thick enough to knead, but knead it but little ; let 
rise, mould into loaves, place in deep pie-tins or small square pudding- 
pans, let it rise, and bake ; or thicken the sponge with rye flour, and 
proceed as above. 

21. Rye Bread — Make a sponge as for wheat bread, let it rise 
over night, then mix it up with rye flour (but not so stiff as wheat 
bread), and bake. 

22. Salt-Raised Bread — The leaven for this bread is thus pre- 
pared: Take a pint of warm water at about 90 deg. (if only a little too 
hot you will not succeed), in a perfectly clean bowl, and stir up a thick 
batter, adding but a teaspoon of salt; beat very thoroughly — this is 
important. Set it in a pan of warm water to secure uniformity of tem- 
perature, and in from two to four hours it will begin to rise. The rising 
is much more sure if coarse flour ot " shorts " is used instead of fine 
flour. 

When your " rising " is nearly light enough, take a pint of milk 
and a pint of boiling water (a tablespoon of lime water added, is good, 
and frequently prevents souring), mix the sponge in the bread-pan, and 
when cooled to about milk-warm, stir in the rising. The sponge thus 
made will be light in two to four hours with good warmth. The dough 
requires less kneading than yeast-raised dough. 

To ascertain the temperature of the water in preparing the rising, 
place a thermometer in for a minute or so. 

Some object to this bread on account of its odor when rising; the 
result of fermentation, but the more there is of this the surer you will 
be of having a good sweet bread when baked. 

23. Bread Sponge for Winter Use — Peel and boil four or 
five medium-sized potatoes in two quarts of water (which will boil down 
to about one quart by the time the potatoes are cooked) ; when done, 
take out and press through a colander, or mash very fine in the crock 



*3 

in which the sponge is made; make a well in the center, into which put 
one cup of flour, and pour over it the boiling water from the potatoes; 
stir thoroughly, and when cool add a pint of tepid water, flour enough to 
make a thin batter, and a cup of yeast. This sponge makes very moist 
bread. 

BREAKFAST AND TEA CAKES. 

Note. — Soda, Saleratus (or pearlash), cream of tartar and baking 
powders are often adulterated with terra alba (white earth). 

Some baking powders contain alum, and such are to be avoided as 
deleterious. Use only those of known merit, such as are manufactured 
by well known and reputable Houses. 

24. Graham Gems — A pint of sour or butter-milk, one teaspoon 
soda and a little salt ; beat all well together and add one egg, a tablespoon 
of molasses, and Graham flour sufficient to make a stiff batter; mix thor- 
oughly. Bake in gem-pans well greased and quite hot, in a quick oven. 

25. Graham Gems — Three cups sour milk, one teaspoon 
soda, one of salt, one tablespoon brown sugar, one of melted lard, one 
beaten egg; to the egg add the milk, then the sugar and salt, then the 
Graham flour (with the soda mixed in), together with the lard; make a 
stiff batter so it will drop, not pour from the spoon. Have the gem 
pans very hot, fill and bake fifteen minutes in a hot oven. 

26. Wheaten Gems — Mix one teaspoon baking powder and 
a little salt into a pint of flour; add to the beaten yelks of two eggs 
one cup sweet milk or cream, a piece of melted butter half the size of 
an egg, the flour with baking powder and salt mixed, and the well 
beaten whites of the two eggs. Beat well, bake immediately in gem 
pan in a hot oven, take out quickly, and send to table immediately. 

21. Sweet Milk Gems — Beat one egg well, add a pint of new 
milk, a little salt, and Graham flour until it will drop off the spoon 
nicely; heat and butter the gem pans before dropping in the dough. 
Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes. 

28. Indian Gems — Mix quickly a quart of Indian meal with 
sufficient water to make a thick batter; add a teaspoon of salt and 
stir thoroughly. Have ready your gem pans well greased and heated. 
Bake in a quick oven until nicely browned on top, and send to table 
hot. 

29. Wheat Muffins — Mix one pint milk,' two eggs, three table- 
spoons yeast and a saltspoon of salt, with flour enough to make a stiff 
batter; let rise four or five hours and bake in muffin rings in a hot oven 
for about ten minutes. 

30. Graham Muffins — Use Graham instead of wheat flour, as 
above, and add two tablespoons molasses. 

31. Corn Muffins — One quart sifted Indian meal, a heaping 
teaspoon butter, one quart milk, a saltspoon of salt, a third of a cuo 



14 

yeast, a tablespoon of molasses; let it rise for four or five hours and 
bake in muffin rings. 

32. Puffet — Two eggs, well beaten, two tablespoons sugar, a piece 
of butter the size of an egg ; beat all together quite thin ; add one pint 
sweet milk. When all are well mixed, add one quart flour and two 
tablespoons baking powder previously sifted together. Have your pans 
well greased and hot ; bake quickly. Very nice for tea. 

33. Pop-Overs — Four eggs, four cups flour, four cups milk, a 
small piece of butter, a little salt. Bake in gem-pans, and serve with 
sweet sauce. 

34. Cinnamon Cake — When making yeast bread and the 
sponge is ready to knead, take a sufficient portion and roll out three- 
fourths of an inch thick, put thin slices of butter on the top, sprinkle 
with cinnamon, and then with sugar ; let it rise well and bake for 
breakfast. Is a fine coffee cake. 

35. Biscuit — Dissolve one rounded tablespoon of butter in a 
pint of hot milk; when lukew T arm stir in one quart of flour, add one 
beaten egg. a little salt, and a tea-cup yeast; work the dough until 
smooth. If in winter set in a warm place, if in summer a cool place, to 
rise. In the morning work softly, and roll out a half inch thick, cut 
into biscuit and set to rise for thirty minutes, when they will be ready to 
bake. These are delicious. 

36* Biscuit — Take one quart sifted flour (loosely put in), two 
heaping teaspoons tartaric acid and one moderately heaping teaspoon 
soda, one teaspoon salt, and three gills of water; shape out with a 
spoon and the floured hand. 

37. Hard Sugar Biscuit — A pound of butter, two of flour, and 
one of sugar, one tablespoon cinnamon, two of caraway-seeds, 
three gills milk, a teaspoon soda. Rub the butter into the flour, 
and mix in the spices; dissolve the soda in the milk, mix with the 
sugar, and work the whole to a stiff dough. Knead it well, roll out 
half an inch thick, cut into round cakes, prick them with a fork, lay 
into buttered pans, and bake in a quick oven to a light brown. 

38. Soft Sugar Biscuit — Three-fourths pound butter, three 
of flour, one of sugar, one quart bread sponge, milk as required. 
Cream together the butter and sugar, rub in the flour, then the 
sponge, and as much milk as will make a soft dough; knead it well, 
and set in a pan to rise; commence in the afternoon. Next morning 
knead lightly, make up with the hands into round cakes of the size of 
a silver dollar, and an inch in thickness. Place them an inch apart on 
buttered tins, set to rise in a warm place, and bake in a quick oven 
when light. When done brush them over lightly with a little cold water 
and let them cool slowly on the tins. 

39- Soda Biscuit — Put one quart flour into sieve, with one 
teaspoon soda and two of cream tartar (or three of good baking 
powder), one of salt, and one tablespoon white sugar; mix all thor- 



« 



*5 

oughly with the flour, run through the sieve, and rub in one 
level tablespoon of lard or butter (or half and half of each), wet with 
a half pint sweet milk, roll out on board, about an inch thick, cut 
with a biscuit cutter or tumbler, and bake in a quick oven fifteen 
minutes. If you have no milk, use a little more butter or lard, and 
wet with water. Handle as little and make as soon as possible. 

40. South Carolina Biscuit — One quart sweet cream or milk, 
one and a half cups butter or fresh lard, two tablespoons white sugar, 
one good teaspoon salt ; add flour sufficient to make a stiff dough, 
knead well, and mould into neat, small biscuit with the hands, as our 
grandmothers used to do ; add one good teaspoon cream tartar if 
preferred. Bake well and you have good sweet biscuit that will keep 
for weeks in a dry place, and are very nice for traveling lunch. 

41. Parker House Rolls — Two quarts flour, one pint cold 
boiled milk, half cup yeast, half cup sugar, one tablespoon melted butter; 
make a well in the heap of flour, pour in all the above, and let it rise 
until morning ; then knead and let it rise until about three in the 
afternoon; then roll out, butter them about the edge, and lap over; 
raise for tea, and bake in a hot oven about twenty minutes. 

42. Vienna Rolls — Have ready in a bowl a tablespoon of butter 
or lard, made soft by warming a little, and stirring with a spoon. Add to 
one quart of unsifted flour two heaping teaspoons of baking powder ; 
mix and sift thoroughly together, and place in a bowl with the butter. 
Take sufficient sweet milk to form a dough of the usual stiffness, 
according to the flour, put into the milk half a teaspoon of salt, and 
then stir it into the flour, etc., with a spoon, forming the dough, 
which turn out on a board and knead sufficiently to make smooth. 
Roll out half an inch thick, and cut with a large round cutter; fold 
each one over to form a half-round, wetting a little between the 
folds to make them stick together ; place on buttered pans, so as 
not to touch, w T ash over on top with milk to give them a gloss, 
and bake immediately in a hot oven twenty minutes. It will do them 
no harm to stand half an hour before baking if desired, 

43. Coffee Rolls — Work into a quart of bread dough a rounded 
tablespoon of butter and half a cup white sugar; add some dried cur- 
rants (well washed and dried in the oven), sift some flour and sugar 
over them, and work into the other ingredients; make into small rolls, 
dip into melted butter, place in tins, let rise a short time and bake. 

44. Egg Rolls — Two cups sweet milk, two eggs, a little salt, 
three and a half scant cups sifted flour. Bake in hot gem pans. 

45. Long Breakfast Rolls — Three and a half cups sweet 
milk, one cup butter and lard mixed in equal proportions, one cup 
potato yeast, flour enough to make a dough. Let rise over night ; in 
the morning add one beaten egg. Knead thoroughly and let rise again. 
With the hands make into balls as large as a small hen's egg ; then 
roll between the hands to make long rolls (about three inches), place 
close together in even rows in the pans. Let rise until light, and bake 
delicately. 



i6 

46. Sally Lunn — One and one-half pounds of flour, two ounces 
of butter, one pint of new milk, one saltspoon salt, and three eggs, 
one tablespoon yeast. Warm the milk and butter over water until the 
butter is melted ; beat the eggs in a two-quart tin pail, and if the milk 
is not hot pour it over them. Stir in half the flour, then add the yeast, 
stirring thoroughly with the rest of the flour. Let rise over night. 
Bake a little brown in a quick oven. Some add two tablespoons 
sugar and a teaspoon of soda, and two of cream tartar, instead of the 
yeast. 

47- English Crumpets — One quart warm milk, one teaspoon 
salt, half cup yeast, and flour enough for a stiff batter. When light 
add half a cup melted butter, let stand twenty minutes, and bake in 
muffin lings or cups. 

48. Cracknells — To a pint of rich milk put two ounces butter 
and a spoon of yeast. Make it warm, and mix in enough fine wheat 
flour to make a light dough; roll thin and cut in long pieces two inches 
broad. Prick well and bake in a slow oven. 

49. Buns — One quart bread sponge, three pounds flour, three- 
fourths pound butter, one of sugar, milk as required. Make the 
sponge in the following manner : Into a pint of water stir enough 
flour to make a smooth batter, add three gills yeast, cover and put in 
a warm place to rise ; when very light it is fit for use. In cold weather 
tepid water is required. Cream the butter and sugar, rub the flour in 
by handfuls, work smooth, add the sponge, and milk to make a soft 
dough; knead well, and set it to rise over night. The next morning 
knead it lightly and roll into sheets half an inch thick, cut into small 
round cakes, put them into shallow pans well buttered so they touch 
each other, and set them in a warm place to rise. When light bake in 
a quick oven. Take them out of the pan and wash them over with 
thin molasses and water, and dust with powdered sugar. Serve when 
fresh. ^ 

50. Buns — Break one egg into a cup and fill with sweet milk ; 
mix with it half a cup of yeast, same of butter, one cup of "sugar, and 
enough flour to make a soft dough ; flavor with nutmeg ; let rise until 
very light, then mould into biscuit with a few currants. Let them rise 
a second time in the baking-pan ; bake, and when nearly done, glaze 
with a little molasses and milk. 

51. London Hot Cross Buns — One and a half pints milk, 
half pint yeast, and sufficient flour to make a stiff batter; set this 
as a sponge over night, and next morning add half pound sugar, a 
quarter pound melted butter, half a nutmeg grated fine, one salt- 
spoon salt, and flour to make up like biscuit; knead well and set 
to rise for five hours; roll half an inch thick, cut into round cakes 
and lay in a buttered pan. After about half an hour make a cross with 
a knife upon each and set at once in the oven; bake a light brown; 
while yet warm brush them over with the white of an egg beaten with 
powdered sugar quite stiff. 



'7 

52. Rusk — Three pounds flour, naif pound of butter, same 
of sugar, two eggs, a pint and a half milk, two tablespoons rose 
water, three do. strong yeast. Sift the sugar into a large pan, and 
rub it into the butter and sugar ; beat the eggs very light and stir into 
the milk, adding the rose water and yeast. Make a hole in the dough, 
pour in the mixture, and slowly mix it to a thick batter ; cover and set 
by the fire to rise. When light knead it well, cut into small cakes and 
knead each separately, lay them near to each other, but not touching, 
in shallow pans well dusted with flour; prick each one with a fork, and 
set in a warm place to rise again. When quite light bake in a moderate 
oven. They should be eaten the same day. 

53. Rusk — Two cups raised dough, one of sugar, half cup 
butter, two well beaten eggs, flour enough to make a stiff dough; set to 
rise, and when light, mould into high biscuit, and let rise again; sift 
sugar and cinnamon over the top and place in oven. 

54. Lebanon Rusk — One cup mashed potatoes, orwe of sugar, 
one of home-made yeast, three eggs; mix together; when raised light 
add half a cup butter or lard, and flour enough to make a soft dough; 
when light mould into small cakes, and let them rise again before bak- 
ing. If wanted for tea, set about 9 a. m. 

55. Johnny Cakes — Scald a quart Indian meal, with water 
enough to make a very thick batter ; add two or three teaspoons 
salt ; mould into small cakes with the hands well floured ; fry them in 
nearly sufficient fat to cover them. When brown on the under side 
turn them, cooking them about twenty minutes. When done, split and 
butter them. 

56. Johnny Cake — Two-thirds teaspoon soda, three table- 
spoons sugar, one teaspoon cream tartar, one egg, one cup sweet milk, 
six tablespoons Indian meal, three tablespoons flour, and a little salt. 
This makes a thin batter. 

57. New England Johnny Cake — Take one pint of fine 
corn meal, and pour over it enough boiling water to wet it all through; 
add about a teaspoon salt; then pour in milk until the mixture will 
drop easily from the spoon; beat it well ; fry on a griddle about 
three-quarters of an hour, turning them when nicely browned on one 
side. 

58. Alabama Johnny Cake — Cook a pint of rice until tender, 
add a tablespoon butter; when cold add two beaten eggs and one pint 
cornmeal, and when mixed spread on an oaken board and bake by tip- 
ping the board before the fire-place. When done on one side turn over. 
The dough should be spread half an inch thick 

59. Corn Dodgers — To one quart corn meal add a little sail 
and a small tablespoon lard; scald with boiling water and beat hard foi 
a few minutes; drop in large spoonsful in a well greased pan. The battel 
should be thick enough to just flatten on the bottom, leaving them quite 
high on the center. Bake in a hot oven. 



60. French Crackers — One and a half pounds each of flour 
and sugar, three quarters pound butter, the whites of five eggs; before 
baking wash over with egg and dip in sugar. 

61. Egg Crackers — Six eggs, twelve tablespoons sweet milk, 
six tablespoons butter, half teaspoon soda; mould with flour half an hour 
and roll thin. • 

62. Economical Toast — Add to one-half pint of sweet milk 
two tablespoons sugar, a little salt, and a well-beaten tgg; dip into this 
slices of bread (if dry, let it soak a little), and fry on a buttered griddle 
until a light brown on each side. Dry bread may thus be well used. 

63. Excellent Toast — Cut slices of a uniform thickness of half 
an inch; move around over a brisk fire, to have all parts uniformly toasted; 
hold only so near the coals that the pieces will be heated through 
when both sides are properly browned. A light wire grid-iron will be 
found very convenient and enable you to toast several slices at once. 
If the smallest part of either of the slices are blackened or charred, care- 
fully scrape it off, or it will flavor the whole. If covered with an earthen 
bowl it will keep moist and warm, or a clean towel or napkin will answer 
if it is to be immediately served. Stale bread may be used for. milk- 
toast, but sweet, light bread, about a day old, is the best for dry-toast. 

64. Corn-Meal Mush — Put four quarts fresh water in a kettle 
to boil, salt to suit the taste; when it begins to boil stir in one and a 
half quarts meal, letting it sift through the fingers slowly to prevent 
lumps, adding it a little faster at the last, until as thick as can be con- 
veniently stirred with one hand; set in the oven in the kettle (or take 
out into a pan), bake an hour, and it will be thoroughly cooked. It 
takes corn meal so long to cook thoroughly that it is very difficult to 
boil it until done without burning. The thorough cooking and baking 
in oven afterwards, takes away all the raw taste of the meal, that is so 
generally found in mush prepared in the ordinary way, and adds much 
to its sweetness and delicious flavor. 

A hard wooden paddle, two feet long, with a blade two inches wide 
and seven long, will be found a most convenient instrument to stir with. 

65. Graham Mush — Sift Graham meal slowly into boiling 
salted water, stirring briskly until thick *as can be stirred with one hand; 
serve with milk or cream and sugar, or butter and syrup. It will be 
improved by removing from the kettle to a pan, as soon as thoroughly 
mixed, and steaming three or four hours. It may also be eaten cold, or 
sliced and fried, like corn-meal mush. 

66. Oat-Meal Mush — To two quarts boiling water, well salted, 
add one and a half cups best oat meal ; stir the meal in by degrees, and 
after stirring up a few times to prevent its settling down in a mass at the 
bottom, leave it to cool three hours without stirring. While stirring in, 
put the inner kettle directly on the stove. (All mushes and prepara- 
tions of like description should be cooked in a custard kettle, or water 
bath, like a carpenter's glue-pot.) To cook for breakkfast it maybe 
put on over night, allowing it to boil an hour or two in the evening, but 



19 

it is better when freshly cooked. Serve with cream* and sugar. To be 
wholesome it must be well cooked, slowly, but for a considerable time. 
In lieu of a custard kettle the mush may be made in a pan or small tin 
bucket, and then placed in a steamer and steamed two hours. 

This is unsurpassed as a breakfast dish, and especially good for 
young children who need bone and muscle-producing food. 

67. Steamed Oat Meal — To one teacup oat meal add a quart 
cold water, a teaspoon salt; put in a steamer over a kettle of cold 
water, gradually heat and steam an hour and a half after it begins to cook. 

68. Cracked Wheat — Two quarts salted water to two teacups 
best cracked wheat; boil two or three hours in a custard kettle; or, 
soak over night and boil at least three-fourths of an hour; or, put 
boiling water in a pan or small bucket, set on the stove, stir in 
the cracked wheat, set in a steamer and steam four hours ; or, make 
a strong sack of thick muslin or drilling, moisten the wheat with 
cold water, add a little salt, place in sack, leaving half the space 
for wheat to swell in; fit a round sheet of tin, perforated with holes 
half an inch in diameter, to the inside of ordinary kettle, so that it will 
rest two or three inches from the bottom; lay the sack on the tin, put in 
water enough to reach the tin, and boil from three to four hours, supply- 
ing water as it evaporates. Serve with butter and syrup or cream and 
sugar. When cold it is fine when sliced and fried; or, warm it with a 
little milk and salt, in a pan greased with a little butter; or, make into 
griddle cakes with a batter of eggs, milk and a little flour and a pinch 
of salt. 

69. Fine Hominy or Grits — Take two cups hominy or wheaten 
grits to two quarts salted water, soak over night, and boil three-quarters 
of an hour in a custard kettle. Serve with milk and sugar; or, when 
cold, slice and fry. 

GRIDDLE OR BATTER CAKES. 

70. Waffles — Take one quart flour, two teaspoons good baking 
powder, one of salt, one of sugar, all sifted together; add a table- 
spoon of butter, two eggs, and a pint and a half of sweet milk; cook 
in waffle-irons well heated and greased. 

71. Waffles — One pint flour, one of sweet milk, three eggs well 
beaten, a piece of butter the size of an egg and a half, a little salt, one 
heaping teaspoon cream-tartar, half teaspoon soda; melt the butter 
and stir in flour, milk and eggs. Sift the cream-tartar and soda through 
a fine sieve the last thing. 

72. Waffles — Take one quart flour, a teaspoon salt, a table- 
spoon melted butter, and milk sufficient to make a thick batter; mix 
thoroughly; add two well-beaten eggs, two heaping teaspoons tartaric 
acid, and one moderately heaping teaspoon soda; stir well together 
and bake at once in waffle-irons. 



20 

73. Quick Waffles — Two pints milk, one cup melted butter, 
and sifted flour to make a soft batter; add the well-beaten yelks of six 
eggs, then the beaten whites, and lastly (just before baking), four tea- 
spoons baking powder; beat very hard and fast for a few minutes. Are 
very good with but four or five eggs, but much better with more. 

74. Raised Waffles — One quart flour, one pint sweet luke- 
warm milk, two eggs, a tablespoon melted butter, a teaspoon salt and 
half a cup good yeast. Bake in waffle-irons well heated and greased. 

75. Rice Waffles — Boil half a pint of rice and let it get cold, 
mix with it a quarter pound of butter, and a little salt; sift in it one 
and a half pints flour; beat five eggs separately; stir the yelks to- 
gether with one quart milk, add the whites beaten to a stiff froth, beat 

nard, and bake at once in waffle-irons. 

76. Massasoit House Waffle — Mix a batter with milk the 
thickness of buckwheat batter ; raise the paste with compressed yeast; 
add three eggs and three spoonfuls of melted butter, and mix thor- 
oughly. Should the batter become sour add a little soda. 

77. Buckwheat Cakes — Use only buckwheat flour perfectly 
clear of grits and free from adulteration with rye or corn; warm one 
pint sweet milk and one pint water — or one may be cold and the other 
boiling^ — put half of this into a stone crock, add five teacups buckwheat 
flour, beat well until smooth, add the rest of the milk and water, and 
lastly a cup of yeast. Or, the same ingredients and proportions may 
be used, except adding two tablespoons molasses or sugar, and using 
one quart water instead of one pint each of milk and water. 

78. Buckwheat Cakes without Yeast — Two cups of buck- 
wheat flour, one of wheat flour, a little salt, three teaspoons baking 
powder; mix thoroughly, and add about equal parts of milk and water 
until the batter is of the right consistency, then stir until free from 
lumps. If they do not brown well add a little molasses. 

79. Bread Griddle Cakes — One quart milk, boiling hot; two 
cups fine bread crumbs, three eggs, a teaspoon nutmeg, one tablespoon 
melted butter, one-half teaspoon salt, one teaspoon soda, dissolved in 
hot water-, break the bread into the boiling milk and let stand for ten 
minutes in a covered bowl, then beat to a smooth paste; add the yelks 
of the eggs well whipped, the butter, salt, soda, and finally the whites 
of the eggs previously whipped stiff. 

80. Huckleberry Griddle Cakes — Two cups milk, a cup and 
a half molasses, three eggs, one and a half teaspoon soda, a little salt, 
and flour to make a batter. Add the berries after the batter is well 
mixed, and bake like other griddle cakes. 

81. Corn Cakes — One pint corn meal, one of sour milk or but- 
ter-milk, one egg, one teaspoon soda and one of salt. A tablespoon of 
corn starch may be used instead of the egg ; bake on a griddle. 



21 

82. Batter Cakes — Make a batter of one quart each of flour 
and sour milk, three eggs beaten separately, a tablespoon of butter and 
a level teaspoon of soda; pulverize the soda very fine before measuring, 
and thoroughly mix with the dry flour; add the whites of eggs just be- 
fore baking on the griddle. May be made without eggs. 

143. Flannel Cakes — Heat a pint of sweet milk, and into 
it put two heaping tablespoons butter, let melt, then add a pint of 
cold milk and the well-beaten yelks of four eggs — placing the whites in 
a cool place ; also, a teaspoon salt, four tablespoons potato yeast, and 
sufficient flour to make a stiff batter ; set in a warm place to rise, let it 
stand three hours, or over night ; before baking add the beaten whites ; 
bake like any other griddle cakes. Be sure to make the batter stiff 
enough, for flour must not be added after it has risen, unless it is allowed 
to rise again. 

84. Graham Griddle Cakes — One quart Graham flour, one 
teaspoon baking powder, three eggs, and milk or water enough to make 
a thin batter. 

85. Rice Griddle Cakes — Boil half a cup rice ; when cold, mix 
one quart sweet milk, the yelks of four eggs, and flour sufficient to make 
a stiff batter ; beat the whites to a froth, stir in one teaspoon soda and 
two of cream of tartar, add a little salt, and lastly the whites of the 
eggs ; bake on a griddle. Serve by spreading them while hot with 
butter, and also any kind of jelly or preserves ; roll them up neatl] cut 
off the ends, sprinkle with sugar, and serve quickly. 

86. Pancakes — Put in an earthen pan four whole eggs, a pinch 
of salt, one of sugar, three spoons of flour ; beat with one quart of 
milk. The preparation must be very light. Bake the pancakes in a 
frying pan, very thickly spread with butter, turn them upside 
down on the table, put some currant or other jelly on one side ; roll 
them ; put them on a plate ; powder them with sugar, and candy 
with a poker, heated red hot. — Emile Combe ; Chef de Cuisine ', Hotel 
Wellington. 

87. Indian Pancakes — One pint Indian meal, one teaspoon salt, 
a small teaspoon soda ; pour on boiling water until thinner than mush ; 
let it stand until cool and add the yelks of four eggs, half a cup of flour, 
in which has been mixed two teaspoons cream tartar ; stir in as much 
sweet milk or water as will make the batter suitable to bake ; beat the 
whites well and add just before baking. 

88. French Pancakes — Beat together, until smooth, six eggs 
and a half pound flour, melt four ounces butter, and add to the batter, 
with one ounce sugar and half pint milk; beat until smooth ; put a 
tablespoonful at a time into a frying-pan, slightly greased, spreading 
the batter evenly over the surface by tipping the pan about; fry to a 
light brown; spread with jelly, roll up, dust with powdered sugar anf7 
serve hot 



22 

89. Doughnuts — Two cups sour milk, one teaspoon soda, two 
cups sugar, one tablespoon melted butter, three eggs and a little salt 
(cinnamon if desired), flour sufficient to roll ; fry in hot lard sufficient 
to float, skim out and drain until dry. 

90. Thomaston Fritters — Three eggs, one and a half cups 
milk, three teaspoons baking powder, and flour enough to make thicker 
than batter cakes ; drop into hot lard and fry like doughnuts. 

A Sauce for the Above — One cup sugar, two tablespoons butter, 
one teaspoon flour beaten together, half a cup boiling water; flavor 
with extract lemon and boil until clear. 

91. Queen Fritters — One pint water, four ounces butter, eight 
ounces flour, ten eggs; boil the water and butter together in a sauce- 
pan large enough to beat the mixture in; put in the flour all at once, 
and stir over the fire till well cooked ; let stand till warm, and add the 
eggs, one at a time; beat well with a spoon against the side of the pan; 
fry slowly in hot lard, and dust with powdered sugar. — Palmer House, 
Chicago. 

92. Apple Fritters — Three eggs beaten very light, one quart 
milk; make a thin batter; add a little salt and the grated rind of one 
lemon; pare, core and slice thin one quart select tart apples; add to 
the batter, and cook by dropping in by spoonfuls in boiling lard; skim 
out with a skimmer and drain. Serve with sauce. 

93. Apple Fritters — Make a batter in the proportion of one 
cup sweet milk to two cups flour, a heaping teaspoon baking powder, 
two eggs beaten separately, one tablespoon sugar and a saltspoon of 
salt; heat the milk a little more than milk- warm; add it slowly to the 
beaten yelks and sugar, then add flour and whites of the eggs; stir all 
together and throw in thin slices of good sour apples, dipping the batter 
up over them; drop into boiling hot lard in large spoonfuls with pieces 
of apple in each, and fry to a light brown. Serve with maple syrup, or 
a nice syrup made with clarified sugar. 

94. Cream Fritters — One and a half pints flour, one pint 
milk, six well beaten eggs, half a grated nutmeg, two teaspoons salt 
and one pint cream. Stir the whole together enough to mix the cream; 
fry in small cakes. 

95. Brown Bread — One pint yellow corn meal, one pint rye 
meal, one-half cup flour, all sifted together; add a little salt and one 
cup molasses; dissolve a teaspoon of soda in half a cup of hot water, 
and at once fill it with cold water; pour it on the mixed flour, etc., 
adding enough tepid water to make all thin; boil a cup of raisins and 
stir into the bread mixture; mix all well, and it is ready for the baking 
tins. Use a regular brown bread tin with a cover to bake it in; bake 
seven hours in a moderate oven. The bread tin should be deep, round, 
small at the bottom and large at the top, with a tight cover and in 
the form of a small ice cream mould of conical shape. Any tinner can 
make it at small cost. — Palmer House } Chicago, 



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BEEF. 



Note — Much depends upon a good selection of beef. The fat 
in that grass-fed is whiter than corn-fed, that of the cow whiter than 
ox beef. Select that which is a clear cherry red after a cut has been 
taken off and exposed to the air a few moments. Ox beef is far prefer- 
able to cow beef, as being the sweeter and more juicy, and is also the 
most economical. Meat from oki or poorly-fed animals has a coarse, 
skinny fat and a dark red lean. To test beef, press into it with the 
finger. If the dent rises up quickly, it is fresh and prime; but if it 
disappears slowly, or remains, it is inferior. For roasts the sirloin and 
rib pieces are mostly used. For steaks the porterhouse and sirloin are 
the choicest. Rounds and rump steaks are usually tough; of the former 
select the inner half — they have the best flavor of any, and when well 
pounded before broiling are quite edible. A rib steak of fat beef — cut 
from between the ribs, or the ribs removed — is fine, tender and juicy. 
Fifteen minutes to the pound and fifteen minutes over, is the rule for 
roasts of beef, most people preferring it (as well as mutton) underdone. 
Less time is required to cook than for pork, veal or lamb, which must 
always be very well done to be palatable, and the rule for these is 
twenty minutes to the pound, and twenty minutes longer. For steaks: 
they are cut from half an inch to an inch and a half in thickness, and 
are broiled well or underdone, to fancy. Broiled steaks are far prefer- 
able to fried, when the means for cooking either way are equally con- 
venient. When fried they should as a rule be well cooked. Do not 
salt beef before or while cooking, as it draws out the juices, and which, 
in broiling especially, are thereby lost. 

96. Roast Beef — Take a rib-piece or loin-roast of seven to eight 
pounds ; wipe it thoroughly all over, lay it in the roasting-pan and 
baste with melted butter ; put it in the well-heated stove oven, and 
while roasting baste it frequently with its ow# drippings, which will make 
it both brown and tender. If, when it is cooking fast, or the gravy is 
growing too brown, turn a glass of cooking wine into the bottom of the 
pan, and repeat this as often as the gravy cooks aw T ay. Such a roast 
needs about two hours' time to be properly done, and should be brown 
outside, but inside a little red. Twenty minutes less time to be used 
when desired quite rare. Season with salt and pepper ; squeeze a 
little lemon juice over it, and also turn the gravy upon it after skimming 
off all the fat. 

97. Roast Beef with Yorkshire Pudding — Select a roast in 
size according to the number at table — a loin or rib-piece — and roast as 
in preceding recipe, care being used to baste without disturbing the 
pudding after it is put in. Make a Yorkshire pudding to eat with it as 
follows: For every pint of milk take three eggs, three cups flour, and a 
pinch of salt; stir to a smooth batter, and pour into the dripping-pan 
under the meat, half an hour before it is done. 



26 

98. Ragout of Beef— For six pounds of the round take half 
a dozen ripe tomatoes, cut up with two or three onions, in a vessel with 
a tight cover; add half a dozen cloves, a stick of cinnamon, and a little 
whole black pepper; cut gashes in the meat, into which stuff half a 
pound of fat salt pork cut in square bits; place the meat upon the 
other ingredients, and pour over them half a cup of vinegar and a cup 
of water; cover tightly, and bake in a moderate oven slowly for four or 
five hours, and when about done, salt to taste. When done take out the 
meat, strain the gravy through a colander, and thicken with flour. 

99. Beef a la Mode — Into a piece of the rump cut deep 
openings with a sharp knife; put in pieces of pork cut into dice and 
previously rolled in pepper, salt, cloves and nutmeg. In an iron stew- 
pan lay pieces of pork, sliced lemon, sliced onions, one or two carrots, 
and a bay-leaf; lay the meat on and put over it a piece of bread-crust 
as large as the hand ; pour over all a half-pint wine and a little vinegar, 
and afterward an equal quantity of water or rich broth, until the meat 
is half covered; cover the dish tightly and cook until tender; take 
out, rub the gravy through a sieve, skim off all fat, add some sour 
cream, and then return to the stew-pan to cook ten minutes. If desired, 
the meat may be prepared some days before in a spiced vinegar or wine 
pickle. 

100. Beefsteak, Broiled — Lay a thick tender steak upon a 
gridiron, well greased with butter or suet, over hot coals. When done 
on one side have ready a warmed platter with a little butter on it ; lay 
the steak, without pressing it, cooked side down, so that the juices 
which have gathered may run on the platter, then quickly place it upon 
the gridiron again and cook the other side. When done place upon the 
platter again, spread lightly with butter, season with salt and pepper, 
and keep warm for a few moments over steam, but not long enough 
for the butter to become oily. Serve on hot plates. Garnish with 
sprigs of parsley, fried potato or browned potato balls, placed around 
the platter. 

101. Beefsteak, Sried — Never fry them when you have the 
means to broil them at hand. When you have not, the next best method 
is to heat a thin frying-pan quite hot, put in a steak previously hacked 
or pounded with an iron maul, let it remain a few moments, loosen 
it with a knife, and turn quickly several times ; repeat this, and when 
done put on a hot platter ; salt, pepper, and put over it bits of butter. 
When more than one, pile one on top of another, and cover with a hot. 
platter. 

102. Beefsteak and Onions — Slice the onions thin and drop 
into cold water. Put a steak in the pan with a little suet. Skim out 
the onions and add to the steak, season with pepper and salt, cover 
tightly and put over the fire. When the juice of the onions has dried 
up and the steak has browned on one side, remove the onions, turn the 
steak, replace the onions, and fry till done. 

103. Boiled Corned Beef— Soak over night if very salt, but if 
the beef is young and not too long corned this is not necessary. Pour 



27 

over it cold water enough to cover it well after washing off the salt 
The rule for boiling meats is generally twenty-five minutes to a pound, 
but corned beef should be placed on a part of the stove or range where 
it will simmer, not boil, for from four to six hours, according to size of 
the piece. If tough let it remain in the liquor until next day, and 
bring it to the boiling point just before serving. For briskets, or plate 
pieces, simmer until the bones are easily removed, fold over into a 
square or oblong piece, place a weight upon it to press, and set where 
it will become cold, which will give a firm solid piece to cut in slices. 
Save the liquor, boil it down, remove the fat, and season with pepper 
and sweet herbs. Pour over finely minced scraps or pieces of the beef, 
press the meat firmly into a mould, and place a close cover and weight 
upon it. When turned from the mould garnish with sprigs of parsley 
or celery, and serve with French mustard or pickles. 

104. Corned Beef — Have especially corned by your butcher a 
piece of the round, after two to four steaks are taken off (according to 
size of the round) of about six inches in thickness ; corn three to four 
days, with rock salt, a little saltpetre and sugar in the pickle; wrap 
round it as tightly as possible several coils of strong cord; boil slowly 
for six to seven hours in a vessel large enough to suspend it. 

If desired hot, then cut the wrapping and serve. Save the liquor 
in the pot, and what remains from dinner replace in it; let it stand over 
night, or longer, when all the liquor will be absorbed by the meat. 

This process will ensure the meat both finely flavored and tender, 
surpassing tongue for cold lunches, tea or sandwiches. An invaluable 
recipe. 

105. Pressed Corned Beef— After serving corned beef at din- 
ner, while yet warm, chop up fat and lean together, not necessarily very 
fine only so that fat and lean may be evenly mixed; stir in enough dry 
mustard to flavor it; put it in an oblong tapering baking-pan, and 
place over it (right side up) another of same size; put into this two or 
three flat irons for a weight and let stand over night. The next day it 
will turn out in a good loaf, from which nice slices can be cut. 

106. Spiced Beef Relish — A pound of rare beef chopped very 
fine (if you have a sausage cutter put it through that), and three Boston 
crackers rolled and sifted ; add salt and pepper to taste, one table- 
spoon of table sauce and a pinch of sweet marjorum, and one tgg well 
beaten; work all together with the hands until thoroughly mixed; 
form into a loaf by pressing into a bowl, and turn out on a buttered 
tin; rub a little buttpr over it, and pour on a large cup of the juice of 
canned tomatoes ; set in the oven and bake three-quarters of an hour, 
basting frequently with the tomato. Serve the next day, cold. 

107. Beef en Ragout — Cut one or two slices of salt pork into 
dice, and fry until brown; pour in a little stock or water, in which cook 
three or four potatoes cut in slices, a sprig of parsley, thyme, and a 
small bay-leaf, pepper and salt. Half an hour before serving, put in 
slices of cold roast beef, adding a dash of vinegar if you like. 



28 

108. Roast Beef and Tomato Sauce— Have ready on a 
platter nicely cut slices of cold roast beef, both rare and well done; 
make a tomato sauce as follows: Stew ten tomatoes, with three cloves, 
pepper and salt, for fifteen minutes (a sliced onion and a sprig or two 
of parsley may also be added if the flavor is desired) ; strain, put on 
the stove in a sauce-pan, with an egg-sized lump of butter and a table- 
spoon of flour previously rubbed together; stir all until smooth, and 
pour it hot over the beef. Let stand a few minutes before serving. 
Canned tomatoes may be used for the sauce. 

109. Fricassee of Cold Roast Beef— Cut the beef into very 
thin slices, shred a handful of parsley very fine, cut a small onion into 
quarters, and put all together in a stewpan, with a small piece of butter 
and some strong soup stock ; season with salt and pepper, and simmer 
very gently fifteen minutes, then mix in the yelks of two eggs and a 
teaspoon Worcestershire sauce. Rub a hot dish with a clove of garlic, 
and turn the fricassee into it. 

110. Stewed Beef — Take a slice of rump, pound till tender, 
lay in an iron kettle in which have been placed slices of pork and 
onions with a few pepper-corns; dredge with salt, and baste with 
melted butter; closely cover the kettle and place over a brisk fire, and 
when fried to a nice brown, add a pint of cooking wine and the same 
of good soup stock; stew until soft; take out the meat, skim off the 
fat, and add a tablespoon flour smoothly mixed with broth; add more 
broth gradually, strain and turn over the dish of meat. If the meat is 
previously placed in a spiced pickle for two or three days, it will much 
improve it. 

111. Beef Pie — Line the sides of a pudding-dish with a puff 
paste, as directed (see Puddings and Pastry), lay in small slices of 
cold roast beef, pepper, salt, and then a few slices cold boiled potatoes. 
Proceed in same way until the dish is full; pour over it a cup of gravy, 
and the same quantity of stewed or canned tomato, cover over with the 
puff paste, putting a rim of it around edge of the dish, before putting 
on the cover. Bake half an hour. 

112. Beef and Potato Pie — Cut cold roast beef or rare-done 
beefsteak into thin slices, and put a layer into a pie-dish; dredge in a 
little flour, salt and pepper, then peel and slice in one tomato with one 
tablespoon grated onion; put in another layer of beef and pour in 
enough gravy or soup stock to moisten it; have ready a large cupful 
of mashed potatoes, wet with enough milk to make it soft; spread this 
over the top of the pie and bake about twenty-five minutes. Just 
before taking up, rub a little butter over the top. 

113. Beef Croquettes — One cup of lean beef, one of the fat, 
half a cup of cold boiled or fried ham, a piece of onion as large as a 
silver dollar, one teaspoon of salt, half a one of pepper, a pinch of 
sage, and a little grated lemon-peel; chop all as fine as possible, or 
put through a mincing machine; then heat with half a cup of stock 
or cold soup; add one egg well beaten. Mould into croquettes with 
the hand, roll in flour or fine bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. 



2 9 

114. Corned Beef Hash — Chop cold corned beef, and to one 
cup of meat add two of cold boiled potatoes, chopped; mix in one 
tablespoon dry mustard and a little pepper; put an egg-sized piece of 
butter in a frying-pan and let it melt slowly, turning the pan so that it 
will be thoroughly buttered ; put in the hash, pressing it down 
smoothly all over the pan; moisten slightly with hot water and let cook, 
without stirring at all, until it begins to brown on the sides, which you 
can tell by pressing it back from the sides, when it will be done. Turn 
out on a hot platter bottom side up in a cake. 

115. Beef Tongue Hash — Chop the heel of a cold boiled 
tongue and add twice as much cold boiled potato, with enough mustard 
to season it; put a piece of butter as large as an English walnut into a 
frying-pan; shake it as it melts, so that every part may be coated; put 
in the hash and press it down firmly, adding enough hot water to 
moisten. When it begins to cook press it away from the sides of the 
pan, so as to have it oval form, and as soon as browned turn out on a 
hot platter. Garnish with pickled beet. 

116. Boiled Beef Tongue — Wash a fresh tongue and just 
cover it with water in the pot; put in a pint of salt and a small red 
pepper; add more water as it evaporates, so as to keep the tongue 
nearly covered until done — when it can be easily pierced with a fork; 
take it out, and if wanted soon, take off the skin and set it away to cool. 
If wanted for future use, do not peel it until it is required. A pint of 
salt will do for three tongues, if you have that number to boil; but do 
not fail to keep water enough in the pot to keep them covered while 
boiling. If salt tongues are used, soak them over night, of course 
omitting the salt when boiling. Or, after peeling a tongue, place it in 
a saucepan with one cup of water, half a cup vinegar, four tablespoons 
sugar, and cook until the liquor is evaporated. 

117. Spiced Beef Tongue — Rub into each tongue a mixture 
made of half pound sugar, a piece of saltpeter size of a pea, and a 
tablespoon ground cloves; put it in a brine made of three-fourths pound 
of salt to two quarts of water, and keep covered. Pickle two weeks, 
then wash well, and dry with a cloth; roll out a thin paste made of 
flour and water, smear it all over the tongue, and place in a pan to 
bake slowly; baste well with lard and hot water; when done, scrape off 
the paste and skin. 

118. Broiled Calves' Liver — Take a fine fresh liver of a calf 
two to three months' old; wash and slice about one-fourth inch thick; 
grease a wire gridiron and broil crisp or well done, according to taste, 
frequently turning, but never rare or under done. Take up and well 
butter both sides on a hot platter, and serve hot. Has somewhat the 
flavor of the breast of a broiled prairie chicken. 

119. Fried Liver, Breaded — Cut in thin slices and place on 
a platter; pour over it boiling water, which immediately turn off (this 
removes any strong taste from beef's liver) ; have ready in the pan 
some hot lard or beef drippings, or both; dredge the liver with rolled 
crackers or dry bread crumbs rolled fine and seasoned with salt and 



3o 

pepper; place in the pan, cover, and fry slowly until both sides are 
dark brown. Should be an hour in cooking, as it is better cooked 
slowly. 

; 120. Fried Tripe — Take good fat honey-comb tripe, partly dry 
it with a cloth, dredge with flour or dip in egg and roll in fine cracker 
crumbs; fry in hot butter or other fat until a delicate brown on both 
sides; lay it on a platter, and make a gravy in the pan by adding a 
little vinegar to it, which pour over the tripe. 

121. Fried Tripe — Make a batter by mixing gradually one cup 
of flour with one of sweet milk, adding a well-beaten tgg and a little 
salt; drain the tripe, dip in the batter, and fry in hot lard or fat. 

122. Fricasseed Tripe — Cut the tripe in narrow strips, put it 
in a little water or milk, add a good piece of butter, previously rolled 
in flour; season with pepper and a little salt; let it simmer slowly for 
some considerable time. Serve in a deep dish, and garnish with pars- 
ley chopped fine and sprinkled on top. 

123. Chipolata — Slice a small onion with a tablespoon of 
hot butter; when fried brown, pour in a cup of cold beef or tomato 
soup; add one sprig of thyme, one of parsley, and a bay-leaf, with salt 
and pepper; when it boils, stir in a thickening of one heaping teaspoon 
flour, wet with cold water; add a little caramel (see Confectionery 
and Cake), and just before serving put thin slices of cold roast beef 
into the gravy and let them heat through. Pour on a dish, and garnish 
with stoned olives, parsley or celery, according to fancy. 

124. Potted Beef — From what remains of a roast of beef re- 
move all the bone and gristle; chop it fine and season with salt and a 
very little Cayenne pepper, also a pinch of cloves, mace and sage; boil 
down a little rich soup stock — with a bit of onion in it if the flavor is 
desired — sufficiently to form quite a hard, strong jelly when cold; while 
the stock is hot moisten the meat with it, and press into an earthen 
pot or jar; place it in a pan of hot water, and bake two hours; then put 
it in a cool place for use. 

125. Staffordshire Beefsteak — Beat the steak a little with a 
rolling pin; flour and season; then fry with a sliced onion to a fine light 
brown; lay the steak into a stew pan, and pour as much boiling water 
over as will serve for sauce; stew very gently half an hour and add a 
spoonful of catsup before serving. 

126. Stewed Chipped Beef— Heat milk and water (about 
half of each), and thicken with a beaten egg and a little flour; when 
nicely boiled, add the beef, either chipped or sliced as thin as possible, 
and almost immediately remove from the fire, as the less it is cooked 
the better; if the beef is very salt, it will need freshening in a little hot 
water before going into the gravy, but if not it will season it just right. 

127. Courtland Beef — Mince some cold and rare roast beef 
including the fat; put in a small stew pan, rubbed with a clove of garlic, 
a little water, half a small onton, pepper and salt, and boil it until the 
onion is quite soft, then add the minced beef with some of its gravy, 



3* 

and stew gently but do not let it boil; prepare toasted bread cut in 
small triangular pieces and lay around the edge of a hot dish; add a 
little vinegar to the stew and pour over it. 

128. Filet de Bceuf Chateaubriand — Take a large or double 
tenderloin steak and broil it; have some parisienne potatoes (see Pota- 
toes a la Parisienne), saute with butter, which put around the dish; melt 
some butter in a sauce-pan, sprinkle in a little chopped parsley; add the 
juice of half a lemon; mix all thoroughly and pour it over the steak. — ■ 
Edward Mehl, Chef de Cuisine \ Gilsey House, New York. 

129. Beef Cakes — Chop up some rare done roast beef with a 
little fat ham or bacon; season with pepper, salt and a little onion; 
mix, and make into small cakes and fry them until brown; make a 
gravy of soup stock, or the beef gravy which was left, thickened with 
browned flour. <&> 

130. Rounds of Beef— Roasted — Take a whole round of 
young ox beef, weighing forty to sixty pounds (according to number 
for which it is to be used), neatly remove the bone and trim off all 
gristle or superfluous fat. Wrap, around it in several coils, commencing 
at the top and winding downward, some stout cord half as large as a 
pencil, draw tight and tie. Bake it in a moderate oven (a brick oven is 
the best) from six to eight hours, according to size, or about an hour to 
each ten pounds ; baste it frequently with drippings and turn it over 
twice during the time. Test it with a long skew r er or steel and when 
quite tender to the centre, it is done. Rub lightly over with salt and 
set away in a cool dry place with the wrapping left on until required for 
use. It should be dark brown outside and moderately rare within. Is 
fine for picnics or other large assemblies, 

131. Hamburger Steak — Take a pound of flank or round steak, 
without any fat, and chop medium fine, also chop an onion quite fine 
and mix well with the meat ; season with a little red and black pepper 
mixed together in proportions of one quarter of red pepper only, and 
fry in a little butter or lard, the latter being preferable; fry brow T n or a 
little underdone, according to taste, and as the bottom will be the most 
browned when served turn it out bottom side up on the platter. Gar- 
nish with celery top around the edge of the platter, and two or three 
slices of lemon on top of the meat. Some make it into small flat cakes 
or balls before frying. — Burkey 6° Milan, 154 and 136 S. Clark street, 
Chicago. 

132. Hamburg Steak — Mince, but not too fine, some round 
steak, and mix with it an onion chopped fine, a little cayenne, black 
pepper and salt. (Some add a little currie powder, or add part of a 
red pepper pod, if desired hot.) When well mixed, fry in a little lard or 
clear drippings; when well done, dish on a small platter, and set in the 
oven long enough to brown over the top. Garnish with small sprigs 
of celery top. 



Xj. ZE3I. T"CTK.3iTEE/, 

Chicago Straw and Felt Works 

STRAW BLEACHER, 

*70 STATE STEEET, CHICAGO. 

Reshaper and Finisher of all kinds of ladies' and Gents' Silk, Felt, Straw, 
Panama, Leghorn and Neapolitan Hats and Bonnets. Gents' Hats, all kinds, 
Retrimmed. Fnr Goods and Feathers Redressed. 



THE ZBIC3- IFOTTIR,. 



PEERLESS PAPILLON REMEDIES 

Absolutely Vegetable. Recommended by the Public. Never Failing. Perfectly Harmless. 



PAPILLON DAPILL0N 

I SKIN CURE rcOirGHCURE 



Is a specific cure for Salt Rheum, Eczema, Erysip- 
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Directions in ten languages accompany every 
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Can be administered to infants without the 
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PAPILLON 

fBLOOD CURE 

A specific cure for all diseases of the Blood, Liver, 
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MUTTON AND LAMB. 



Note-^ -Mutton should be quite fat, and the fat clear, hard and 
white; when yellow it is old, and should be rejected. The lean of fat 
mutton will be juicy and tender, and is of a deep dark red color. The 
longer it is hung before cooking — provided it is not tainted — the more 
tender it will be; and if washed with vinegar every day and then thor- 
oughly dried it will keep a long time. During the summer months, if 
rubbed with ground pepper and ginger it will keep off flies. For roasts, 
choose the shoulder, loin or haunch, for boiling the leg, and the small 
ribs for chops. Cuts from the round of the leg are mutton steaks, not 
properly chops, though so termed by some. They are usually tough, 
and inferior to rib chops for broiling. 

133. Boiled Mutton with Caper Sauce— Into a large pot of 
boiling water put a handful of salt. Select a leg of mutton, with the fat 
clear, hard and white; wash it and rub salt into every part. If desired 
rare, cook two hours; if well done, three hours, or even more, according 
to size. Make a sauce of a pint of hot milk, thickened with flour; 
add butter, salt, pepper and two tablespoons capers; small chopped 
pickle will answer the place of capers, if not convenient. A mint sauce 
similar to that served with roast lamb may be used, if preferred. 
Serve boiled mutton with hot plates. 

134. Leg of Mutton a la Venison — Remove all the rough 
fat from the mutton and lay it in a deep earthen dish; rub into it thor- 
oughly the following: One tablespoon salt, one each of celery-salt, brown 
sugar, black pepper, English mustard, allspice, and some sweet herbs, all 
powdered and mixed; after which pour over it slowly a teacup good 
vinegar, cover tightly, and set in a cool place four or five days, turning 
it and basting often with the liquid each day. To cook, put in a kettle 
a quart of boiling water, place over it an inverted shallow pan, and on 
it lay the meat just as removed from the pickle; cover the kettle tightly 
and stew four hours. Do not let the water touch the meat. Add a 
cup of hot water to the pickle remaining and baste with it. When done, 
thicken the liquid with flour and strain through a fine sieve, to serve 
with the meat; also a relish of currant jelly, the same as for venison. 

135. Mutton Chops, Broiled — Select good fat chops from 
the rack of the fore-quarter; cut very thick — to obtain which cut off 
two ribs, remove the bone from one and press the meat closely to the 
other; also neatly trim off the meat from the small part of the bone 
for two or three inches, to serve as a handle. Broil over a brisk char- 
coal or coke fire upon a wire gridiron, turning frequently until both 
sides are done to fancy. Serve on a hot platter, and garnish the chops 
by neatly wrapping around the handle of each clear white paper, and 
lay a sprig of fresh celery-top on each chop. 



34 

136. Mutton Chops, Fried — Rub them with salt and pepper, 
put in the frying-pan, cover them, and fry five minutes, turning but 
once; then dip them in well-beaten egg, and then in fine cracker or 
bread crumbs, and fry until tender or browned nicely on each side. 

137. Mutton Chops, Fried— Put them in a dripping-pan in' 
the oven, with a little salted water and pepper; baste frequently, turn- 
ing them until brown. 

138. Haricot of Mutton — If you have left part of a leg of cold 
boiled mutton, saw off the end of the bone from which the meat has 
been cut, so as to leave the remainder in a good shape ; put both 
pieces into a closely covered saucepan ; cut into dice, a carrot, turnip 
and onion, put in four cloves and a teaspoon of salt, put in hot water 
enough to cover the mutton, and simmer gently until the vegetables 
are very soft ; then take out the meat and bone, thicken the gravy with 
two teaspoons flour wet in cold water. Let it boil up after the meat is 
removed, and turn it over the mutton. 

139. Mutton and Rice — Mince into dice pieces of cold 
mutton, add a cup of cold boiled rice to one of meat ; butter a sauce- 
pan well, pour in a little water, add the mutton and rice, and stir until 
hot, then pour in two eggs slightly beaten, and stir until they are 
cooked ; sprinkle with pepper and salt to taste. 

140. Mutton and Tomato Sauce— (See Roast Beef and 
Tomato Sauce, No. io8); and cook cold roast or boiled mutton as 
directed for beef. 

141. Mutton Pie with Tomatoes — Over the bottom of an 
earthen baking-dish place a layer of bread crumbs, and over it alter- 
nate layers of cold roast mutton cut in thin slices, and tomatoes peeled 
and sliced, season each with salt, pepper and bits of butter, as laid in. 
The top layer should be of tomatoes, spread over with bread crumbs. 
Bake three-quarters of an hour, and serve immediately. 

142. Shepherd's Pie — Spread over a small platter, thoroughly 
buttered, warm mashed potato, mixed with enough milk to make it a 
little soft, and set in the oven to brown. When stiffened enough, and 
as brown as pie-crust, pour over it minced cold mutton warmed in a 
little thickened gravy. Is a fine breakfast dish. 

143. Scrambled Mutton — Two cups of chopped cold mutton, 
two tablespoons hot water, and a piece of butter as large as an English 
walnut. When the meat is hot, break in three eggs, and constantly stir 
until the eggs begin to stiffen. Season with pepper and salt. 

144. Mutton and Potato Pie — Mince cold mutton with a very 
little onion, salt and pepper, and put in gravy enough to make it quite 
moist; also a few capers. Put it into a buttered pudding-dish, and 
spread the top with mashed potato, and set in the oven. When very 
hot, rub a piece of butter over the top, and brown in the oven. 

Note — Lamb is good at a year old, and is then known as "spring 
lamb "; early in the season is rather an expensive meat in most locations, 
and it is quite inferior to good mutton in nutriment, or for digestion 



35 

The meat should be a light red, and fat. If the fore-quarter is not 
fresh, the large vein will be greenish instead of blue; and if the hind- 
quarter is stale, the kidney fat will have a slight smell. 

145. Spring Lamb with Mint Sauce — Select a saddle of a 
lamb at least a year old, the meat a light red and fat. Rub well with 
salt and pepper, and roast about an hour and a half, basting frequently 
with salted water and the drippings. Serve with mint sauce, made as 
follows: Take fresh young spear-mint leaves stripped from stems, wash 
and drain them or dry on a cloth, chop very fine, put in a gravy tureen, 
and to three tablespoons of mint add two of finely-powdered cut-loaf 
sugar; mix and let it stand a few minutes, then pour over it slowly six 
tablespoons good cider or w 7 hite-wine vinegar. The sauce should be 
made some time before dinner, so that the flavor of the mint may be 
well extracted. 

146. Stewed Lamb with Peas — Take the neck or breast, 
cut in small pieces, and put in a stewpan with some thinly-sliced salt 
pork, and enough water to cover it ; cover closely and stew until ten- 
der, skim off all scum, and add a quart of green shelled peas, adding 
more water if necessary; cover until the peas are cooked tender, and 
add a little butter, rolled with flour and pepper to taste ; let it simmer 
a few minutes, and serve. 

147. Broiled Breast of Lamb with Cream Sauce — Remove 

the neck, shoulder and end of the ribs, for an inch and a half, from a fat 
young spring lamb. Broil over a brisk charcoal or coke fire, frequently 
turning until done as desired, place on a hot platter, salt, pepper and 
butter it. Set in the oven while making a sauce as follows : Heat a 
tablespoon of butter in a small saucepan, add a teaspoon of flour, and 
stir until perfectly smooth ; then add, slowly stirring in, a cup of cold 
milk, let it boil up once, and season to taste with salt and pepper and 
a teaspoon of finely chopped fresh parsley. Serve in a gravy boat, all 
hot. 

148. Broiled Lamb Chops — Have them fat and tender from 
the rack of the forequarter, trim the meat off the small end of the 
bone about an inch, as a handle, broil over a clear fire, season with 
pepper and salt and butter, and serve, laying them one over the other, 
with a slice of lemon on the top one. Garnish the edge of the platter 
with slices of cucumber and beet pickles, alternately, cut in triangles, 
the points outwards. 

149. Lamb Scallop — One cup each of cold lamb (chopped fine), 
stewed tomato, and fine bread crumbs. Arrange all in alternate layers 
in a buttered dish, having the crumbs at top. Season with salt and 
pepper. Put bits of butter on the top and bake. 

150. Lamb a la Matelot — Cut rather thick slices of cold lamb, 
beat an egg and lay them in it; lift them out one by one; drain for a 
moment, and then cover with sifted bread crumbs, seasoned with pepper 
and salt; fry in hot lard 



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PORK. 



Note — Much care should be taken in the selection of pork. Both 
fat and lean should be very white, and the skin or rind both smooth 
and cool to the hand. 

151. Stuffed and Roasted Pork — Take a small loin, three 
tablespoons bread crumbs, one finely-chopped onion, half a tea- 
spoon chopped sage, or summer-savory if preferred, the same of salt 
and same of pepper, one ounce chopped beef suet, and one tablespoon 
of drippings. Have each joint of the loin perfectly separated with a 
cleaver, to carve easily, and make an incision with a knife into the thick 
part of the meat in which to place the stuffing, which prepare as follows: 
Mix the bread crumbs with the onions thoroughly, add to this the sage 
or summer-savory, pepper, salt and suet ; when thoroughly mixed press 
into the incisions made in the pork, and sew together with coarse thread 
the edges of the meat to keep in the stuffing; grease a stiff sheet of 
paper with drippings, place the loin into this, securing it with twine; 
bake in a dry baking-pan, in a quick oven, basting constantly as the 
grease draws out ; allow twenty minutes to the pound, and twenty 
minutes over. The conventional apple sauce may be varied by serving 
apple fritters (see No. 92 or 93) with this dish, if preferred. 

152. Roast Spare-rib — After trimming off the rough ends, 
crack the ribs through the middle, rub with salt and pepper, fold over 
where cracked, and stuff same as roast pork (see No. 151), sew up 
tighly, put in the 'dripping-pan with a pint of water, with which baste 
frequently, turning once, so as to bake both sides evenly, until a rich 
brown. 

153. Roast Sucking Pig — One not less than six weeks old, 
which has been nicely dressed as follows : It should be scored across 
the back from head to tail, the tail run under the near scores, the ears 
sewed together by the tips back of the head, the knees bent and run 
under scores, and before baking, a cracker placed into its mouth. Rub 
lard all over the surface, and make a stuffiing for it as follows : Take 
two quarts of corn meal, salted as if for bread, mix to a stiff dough 
with hot water, put into pan and bake ; after it is done, break up and 
add to it a quarter of a pound of butter, pepper to taste, and also some 
thyme, sweet marjorum or sage, as fancied. Fill the pig with the stuff- 
ing until round and plump, and sew it up ; place it on its knees in the 
pan, which fill with as much water as will be required to baste it 
frequently until done. Turn while roasting the same as a turkey. 
Make a gravy of the drippings left in the pan, first straining through a 
sieve made very hot, and thicken with flour or corn-starch, lastly 
adding a little hot water, if not sufficient ; also sprinkle in a tablespoon 
of parsley, finely chopped, and a teaspoon of summer savory. 



3» 

154. Fried Pork Steaks — Fry like beefsteaks, with pepper 
and salt. If a sausage flavor is liked, sprinkle in a little powdered sage 
or summer savory. 

155. Pork Chops— Are usually fried, but if broiled, trim off 
most of the fat, and the meat for three inches from the small end, neatly; 
cook them thoroughly through, turning frequently; put on a hot platter; 
salt, pepper, and if most of the fat has been removed, butter them. 
Garnish the platter with sprigs of parsley around the edge. 

156. Pork Tenderloins — The tenderloins are unlike any other 
part of the pork in flavor. They may be either fried or broiled; the 
latter being dryer, require to be well buttered before serving, which 
should be done on a hot platter before the butter becomes oily. Fry 
them in a little lard, turning them to have them cooked through; when 
done, remove, and keep hot while making a gravy by dredging a little 
flour into the hot fat; if not enough add a little butter or lard, stir until 
browned, and add a little milk or cream, stir briskly, and pour over the 
dish. A little Worcestershire sauce may be added to the gravy if 
desired. ^ 

157. Fried Salt Pork — Cut in thin slices, and freshen in cold 
milk or milk and water, roll in flour and fry crisp. If required quickly, 
pour boiling water over the slices, let stand a few minutes, drain and 
roll in flour as before ; drain off most of the grease from the frying- 
pan; stir in while hot one or two tablespoons flour, about half a pint 
milk, a little pepper, and salt if over freshened ; let it boil, and pour 
into a gravy dish. A teaspoon of finely-chopped parsley will add 
pleasantly to the appearance of the gravy. 

158. Fried Salt Pork — Cook same as directed for fried tripe 
(No. 121). 

159. Grilled Salt Pork — Take quite thin slices of the thick 
part of side pork, of a clear white, and thinly streaked with lean ; hold 
one on a toasting fork before a brisk fire to grill ;' have at hand a dish 
of cold water, in which immerse it frequently while cooking, to remove 
the superfluous fat and render it more delicate. Put each slice as 
cooked in a warm covered pan ; when all are done serve hot. 

• 160. Yankee Pork and Beans — Pick over carefully a quart 
of small w T hite beans, let them soak over night ; in the morning wash 
and drain in another water; put on to boil in cold water with half a 
teaspoon soda. Boil about thirty minutes ; when they are done, the 
skin of a bean will crack if taken out and blown upon. Drain and put 
in an earthen pot, first a slice of pork and then the beans, with two 
or three tablespoons molasses. When all are in, put in the center, half 
to three-quarters of a pound of well-washed salt pork, with the rind 
uppermost, and scored across or in squares, season with pepper, and 
salt if needed, cover all with hot water, and bake six hours or longer 
in a moderate oven, adding hot water as needed by evaporation, to 
keep them moist. They cannot be baked too long if this is done. 
Keep them covered so they will not burn on the top, but remove the 
cover an hour or so before serving, to brown the top and crisp the pork. 



39 



Note— The best hams have a thin skin, with solid fat and a small, 
short tapering leg or shank, and should weigh from eight to fifteen 
pounds P Tes S t thfm by running a steel or knife along ^ fleshy stde 
dose to the bone; if it comes out clean it is good, if smeared it is tainted. 

161. Boiled Ham-Take a ham, say of ten to twelve pounds 
nour boiling water over it, and let it cool enough to wash and scrape it 
dean- put if in a perfectly clean boiler, with cold water to cover it; bring 
f to the boi ing point, when place it on the back part of the stove or 
range to sSmefsfeadiiy six or seven hours, or nntil it is tender, when 
tested with a fork. Be careful to keep the water at a low boiling point 
and do not allow it to get much above it. If not suspended in the pot 
—the better way— the ham should be turned once or twice m the water. 
When done pla'ce in a large pan to skin; dip the hands in co d ^ter 
take the skin between finger and thumb, and P u V°^Td™w.2d- 
knuckle. Set it in a moderate oven, placing the lean side downward 
and if you wish it breaded, sift over it powdered crackers and bake 
one hour. Baking brings out a great quantity of fat,_leaving the meat 
more delicate, anf the lam will keep much longer in warm weaker 
If before it is used there is a tendency to mould, set it in the oven 
again for a short time. 

162. Broiled Ham— Cut the ham in slices of medium thick- 
ness place on a hot gridiron, and broil until the fat readdy flows out 
Td 'the meat is slightly browned; take it from the gnduon w. h a knife 
and fork, and drop into a pan of cold water, then return again to £e 
gridiron repeat several times, and the ham is done. Place on a hot 
clatter spread it with sufficient butter, and serve quickly. If the ham 
& too fat trim off a part. It is very difficult to broil ham without burn- 
ing the fat, but this does not impair the flavor. Slices of salt-pork or 
bacon may also be cooked in same way. 

163. Broiled Ham-Shave off from a good firm ham several 
slices of about a quarter inch in thickness; trim off nearly all the fat 
around the edge; put it on a wire broiler over a brisk charcoal or coke 
fire, and cook quickly; closely watch, and turn the .gridiron . whenev* £ 
is likely to burn. If cut as directed, a slice will be cooked in three to 
four minutes, when place it in a hot pan, butter it and cover When 
all are done, arrange the slices neatly upon a hot platter, and serve 
quickly, with hot plates. 

164. Fried Ham and Eggs-Place the slices in boiling water 
and cook until tender; put them in a frying-pan to brown, and dish on 
a platter. Fry some eggs by dipping gravy over them ^^d^f/ "^Jf^ 
of turning. Take up carefully without breaking, and lay upon the slices 
of hams. 



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VEAL. 



Veal — The veal of calves from four to six weeks old is the best; if 
younger it is unwholesome, and if older it is apt to be too lean. The 
meat should be clear and firm, and the fat white. If dark and thin, it 
is not good. The hind-quarter is the choicest joint, and is divided into 
the loin and leg. The neck or fore-quarter is used for fricassees and 
stews, and for pies or chops. 

165. Roast Loin of Veal — Wash and rub it well with salt 
and pepper, leaving in the kidney, around which put considerable salt. 
Roll it up (the ribs having been well cracked), let it stand two hours, 
and during that time make a stuffing of bread crumbs, moistened 
with a little hot water and butter, or chopped salt pork if preferred, 
and also an egg, Unroll the loin, put the stuffing well around the 
kidney, fold and secure with several coils white cotton twine wound 
around in all directions; place in the dripping pan with the thick side 
down, and put in a rather hot oven, graduated after it commences to 
roast to moderate ; in half an hour add a little hot water to the pan, 
and baste often; in another half hour turn over the roast, and when 
about done, dredge lightly with flour and baste with melted butter. 
Before serving carefully remove the twine. A roast of four to five 
pounds will bake in about two hours. For a gravy, skim off some 
of the fat if there is too much in the drippings, dredge in some 
flour, stir until brown, add some hot water if necessary, boil a few 
minutes, stir in such sweet herbs as fancied, and put in a gravy boat. 
Serve with green peas and lemon jelly. Is very nice sliced cold for 
lunch, and Worcestershire or Chili sauce forms a fine relish. 

166. Gravy for Roast Veal — Mix one dessertspoon of dry 
mustard, one teaspoon salt, a quarter ditto of pepper, half teaspoon 
celery-salt, with one tablespoon of butter. When all are well stirred 
together, add the yelks of two eggs; beat well and stir into a cup of 
hot sweet cream; stir all together over a tea-kettle until it thickens 
like a custard, then take from the fire and add two tablespoons vinegar. 

167. Roast Veal Pie — Cut cold roast veal into slices, with 
the stuffing, and lay in a deep dish, adding pepper and salt; dredge 
lightly with flour, and put in the gravy that was left and a little hot 
water added to it. A dish holding three pints will require a cup of 
gravy. Cover the top with a crust made of one pint flour with two tea- 
spoons baking powder sifted through it, add a piece of butter half the 
size of an egg, rubbing into the flour with the hand; wet with sweet 
milk enough to make a dough as soft as can be handled. When made, 
score the crust in the center; put it over the dish, and bake in a brisk 
oven. Serve in the dish in which it is baked, set upon a round soup 
or cake plate. 



4* 

168. Veal Cutlets-— Fry the cutlets brown in sweet lard or beef 
drippings; dip in a batter made of half a pint of milk, a well-beaten 
egg and flour, and fry again; also drop spoonfuls of the batter in the 
lard after the veal is taken up; take them out to serve on top of the 
meat; put a little flour paste in the gravy with salt and pepper, let it 
come to a boil, and pour over the whole. The veal should be cut thin, 
pounded, and cooked nearly an hour. 

169. Veal Stew — Boil two pounds and a half of the breast of 
veal one hour in water enough to cover, add a dozen potatoes, and 
cook half an hour; before taking off the stove add a pint of milk and 
flour enough to thicken; season to taste. 

170. Ragout of Veal — Cut cold veal cutlets into small pieces; 
put a piece of butter as large as a walnut in a frying-pan, and when hot, 
drop in the veal and stir a few minutes; dredge in a little flour, and 
then pour in a cup of stock made by boiling the bone and dry bits of 
veal; season with salt and pepper, and let it boil up; then add four cold, 
boiled potatoes cut in slices; rub the platter with a clove of garlic, and 
pour the ragout on it. 

171. Veal Pot Pie — Put two or three pounds of veal — that 
from the loin or breast is best, but other parts may be used — cut in a 
dozen pieces, and put into a quart of cold water; make a quart of soda 
biscuit dough, take two thirds of it, roll a quarter inch thick; cut into 
strips an inch wide by three long; pare and slice six potatoes; boil the 
veal until tender, and take out all the bone, leaving three or four pieces, 
put in two handsful potatoes and several strips of dough, then add veal 
and dough, seasoning with salt and pepper, and a little butter, until 
all the veal is in the pot; add boiling water enough to cover; make a 
crust out of the remaining dough, slit the center to let steam escape, 
and place over the whole. Put on a tight lid and boil gently twenty 
or thirty minutes without uncovering. 

172. Veal with Oysters — Cut two pounds tender veal into 
thin bits, dredge with flour, and fry in. sufficient hot lard to prevent 
sticking. When nearly done, add a pint and a half fine oysters; thicken 
with flour, season with salt and pepper, and cook until done. Serve in 
a covered dish, hot. 

173. Veal Toast — One cup chopped veal, one cup hot water, 
a piece of butter as large as a butternut, one teaspoon salt, and one- 
fourth teaspoon pepper; have ready on a platter slices of bread nicely 
toasted brown, and buttered; if the crusts are hard, dip the edges in 
hot water; when the minced veal is quite hot, pour it on the toast. 

174. Cold Veal and Tomatoes — Arrange delicate slices of 
cold roast veal on a platter, put over them peeled and sliced raw 
tomatoes, and pour over the dish a salad dressing made as follows : 
Rub to a powder with a silver spoon the yelks of two hard-boiled eggs, 

-add half a teaspoon salt and the same each of pepper, white sugar and 
dry English mustard. When these are all well mixed with the egg, add 



43 

two tablespoons of best salad oil, stirring in gradually, and when well 
mixed put in half a cup of vinegar. All should be very cold, and so 
kept until served. 

175. Veal Patties — Cut portions of the neck or breast of veal 
into small pieces, and, with a little salt pork cut fine, stew gently for ten 
or fifteen minutes; season with pepper and salt and a small piece of 
celery chopped coarsely, also of the yellow top, picked (not chopped) 
up; stir in a paste made of a tablespoon flour, the yelk of one egg, and 
milk to make a thin batter; let all come to a boil, and it is ready for the 
patties. Make the patties of a light, flaky crust, as for tarts; cut round, 
the size of a small sauceplate; the center of each, for about three inches, 
cut half way through, to be raised and serve as a cover. Put a spoon- 
ful of the stew in each crust, lay on it the top, and serve. Stewed 
oysters or lamb may be used in place of veal. 

176. Sweetbreads— There are two in a calf, which are con- 
sidered delicacies. Select the largest. The color should be clear and a 
shade darker than the fat. Before cooking in any manner let them lie 
for half an hour in tepid water ; then throw into hot water to whiten 
and harden, after which draw off the outer casing, remove the little 
pipes, and cut into thin slices. They should always be thoroughly 
cooked. 

177. Broiled Sweetbreads — After preparing as above, spread 
plenty of butter over them, and broil on a fine wire gridiron over hot 
charcoals, turning often. 

178. Fried Sweetbreads — Parboil five minutes, wipe dry, lard 
them with narrow strips of fat salt pork with a larding needle, taking 
deep, long stitches, or they will break out. Put a very little butter or 
lard in a frying-pan, and lay in the sweetbreads when hot ; fry to a 
crisp brown, turning them often. 

179. Fricasseed Sweetbreads — If they are uncooked, cut 
into thin slices, let them simmer in a rich gravy for three-quarters of 
an hour, add a well-beaten egg, two tablespoons cream and a table- 
spoon chopped parsley ; stir all together for a few minutes and serve 
immediately. 

180. Sweetbreads with Green Peas — Lard five sweetbreads 
as above directed, letting the strips of pork project half an inch evenly 
on the upper side, put in a saucepan with half a pint water, and let 
stew slowly for half an hour ; take out and put in a small dripping- 
pan, with a little butter and a sprinkling of flour, brown slightly, add 
half a gill of mingled milk and water, season with pepper ; heat a half 
pint cream and stir it in the gravy in the pan. Have the peas ready 
boiled and seasoned, place the sweetbreads in the center of the dish, 
pour the gravy over them, and put the peas around them. 



T. H. Marshall & Co. 



WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALERS IH 



Hard and Soft 

*COAl> 



MAIN OFFICE: 



97 E. Washington Street, 



CHICAGO. 



TELEPHONE No, 5039 



POULTRY AND GAME. 



181. Baked Chicken — Split them lengthwise, soak half an hour 
in cold water, wipe perfectly dry, and put in a dripping-pan, bone side 
down, without any water; if the oven is hot and the chickens young, 
should be done in half an hour. Take out and season with salt, pepper 
and butter; place one above another closely, and place in a pan of boiling 
water, covering them closely to keep them moist until served; mean- 
time boil the giblets in a little water, and after the chickens are taken 
out of the dripping-pan, pour in the giblet water; thicken it, and having 
chopped the giblets, add them to it, making the gravy to serve with 
chickens. Is fully equal to broiled chicken. 

182. Baked Chicken with Parsnips— Wash, scrape and 
quarter a few parsnips; parboil for twenty minutes; prepare a young 
chicken by splitting open at back; place in a dripping-pan, the skin 
side up, lay parsnips around the chicken, sprinkle with salt and pepper, 
and add an egg-sized lump of butter, or two or three slices nice pickled 
pork; put enough water in the pan to prevent burning, place in oven 
and bake until both chickens and parsnips are done a delicate brown. 
Serve the chicken separately on a platter, pouring the gravy in the pan 
over the parsnips. 

183. Boiled Chicken — A pair are usually boiled. Dress and 
truss with wooden skewers, or tie the legs with twine; stuff with a 
stuffing made of bread and butter moistened with milk, flavor with a 
little parsley or summer-savory; suspend them in a pot to boil an hour, 
or until done. Make an egg sauce sprinkled with chopped parsley to 
serve with it. Also serve a slice of boiled bacon, ham or salt pork to 
each plate at table. 

184. To Broil Chicken or Quails — Cut the bird open in 
the back; lay on the meat board until it will lay flat; put on a gridiron 
over a good bed of coals, and broil until a nice brown, but do not burn. 
It will take twenty or thirty minutes to cook thoroughly, and will do so 
much better if covered with a pie-tin held down by a weight, so that it 
will lie close to the gridiron. While it is broiling, put the giblets in a 
stewpan, and boil in a pint of water until tender; chop fine, and add 
flour, butter, salt and pepper; also stir in a cup of sweet cream. When 
done, dip birds in this gravy, and let boil for half a minute; send to 
table quite hot. 

185. Fried Spring Chicken— Put in the frying-pan on the 
stove about half a tablespoon each of lard and butter; when hot, lay in 
the chicken cut open on the back, and sprinkle with flour, salt and 
pepper; cover over and cook over a moderate fire; when a light brown 
turn it over and again sprinkle with flour, salt and pepper; if necessary 
add more lard and butter, and cook slowly until done; make a gravy 



4 6 

as for baked chicken in No. 181; or, the following is a rich and very 
nice gravy without cream: Take the yelk of an egg, beat up light, 
strain and stir slowly into the gravy after the flour and milk have been 
stirred in and thoroughly cooked; as soon as it boils up it is done. 

186. Fricasseed Chicken — Cut up and put on to boil, skin 
side down, in a small quantity of water; season with pepper and salt, 
also slices of onion if liked; stew gently until tender; remove the 
chicken, and add half a pint of milk or cream to the gravy; thicken 
with butter and flour rubbed smoothly together in a little of the gravy; 
let it boil a few minutes; add a little chopped parsley, and serve. A 
few slices of clear white celery from the bottom of the stalk may be 
added, if that flavor is liked. 

187. Fricasseed Chicken — Put the chicken cut up, in a sauce 
pan with barely enough water to cover it, stew gently until tender; have 
a frying-pan prepared with a few slices of salt pork; drain the chicken and 
fry with pork until a rich brown; then take out of the pan and put in 
the broth in which the chicken was stewed, thicken with browned flour 
mixed smooth with a little water, and season with pepper. Put the 
chicken and pork back in the gravy, let it simmer a few minutes, and 
serve very hot. 

188. Chicken Lunch for Traveling — Cut a young chicken 
down the back; wash and wipe dry; season with salt and pepper; put 
in a dripping-pan, and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an 
hour. This is much better for traveling lunch than when seasoned with 
butter. 

189. Chicken Pie — Cut up two young chickens, in hot water 
enough to cover them, and as the water boils out add more, so as to 
have enough for the pie, and also for a gravy to serve with it; boil until 
tender; line the sides of a four or six-quart pan with a rich baking 
powder or soda-biscuit dough a quarter inch thick, put in part of the 
chicken, season with salt, pepper and butter, lay on a few thin strips or 
squares of dough, add the rest of the chicken and season as before; 
five or six fresh eggs beaten, or a few new potatoes in their season, 
may be also added. Take the liquor in which the chicken was boiled, 
with butter, salt and pepper, add a part of it to the pie, and cover with 
the crust rolled a quarter inch thick, with a hole in the center the size 
of a tea-cup. Keep adding the broth as needed, and plentiful, as there 
cannot be too much of the gravy. Bake about an hour in a moderate 
oven. If the flavor of celery is liked, a few inside layers or slices of 
the bottom of the stalk may be put in with the strips of dough. In 
that case, garnish the top of the pie with small, bright celery leaves, 
neatly arranged in a circle. 

190. Chicken Pot Pie— Take two young chickens, joint and 
cut up; then prepare and cook as directed for Veal Pot Pie. See 
No. 171. 

191. Chicken Puree— Pick into small bits, cold roast or boiled 
chicken; season with salt and pepper. Boil the bones and skin in 
enough water to cover; strain and return to the fire. When it boils> 



47 

stir in for each cupful of the stock a small teaspoon flour rubbed in 
one teaspoon butter: add a little celery-salt, and stir in the meat. 
Serve with small triangles of bread previously fried crisp in very hot 
lard. 

192. Salmi of Chicken — Cut cold chicken into small bits, and 
heat in enough drawn butter to make it quite moist; season with pepper 
and celery-salt: when hot take from the fire, add a well-beaten egg and 
a teaspoon lemon juice. Cover the bottom of a covered dish with 
bread crumbs and pour in the chicken; sift crumbs over the top, stick 
bits of butter over it, and bake until brown. The gravy left from the 
chicken can be used instead of the drawn butter if desired. 

193. Chicken and Oyster Croquettes— Take one cup cold 
chicken chopped very fine, one saucerful of cold scalloped oysters, 
also chopped; half a cup sifted bread crumbs, pepper, salt and a little 
mace, one egg beaten lightly; add a little broth made of the bones of 
the chicken, boiled in just water enough to cover them. Have the mix- 
ture as soft as can be handled (an experienced cook can handle it much 
softer than a novice). Form into long rolls as large as a finger; roll in 
sifted crumbs and fry in very hot lard. Serve with slices of lemon. 

194. Chicken Salad without Celery — Cut cold chicken in 
small bits, or tear it into shreds; mix with it an equal quantity of nice 
raw cabbage chopped fine; season with pepper and celery salt. Prepare 
a dressing by beating the yelks of four eggs; add to these half a cup 
butter, half a cup cream, half a gill vinegar, and one heaping spoon 
prepared mustard; put this mixture into a bowl over a tea-kettle, or in 
a hot pan of water; stir until it is thicker than boiled custard, and take 
from the fire. Take part of the dressing and thin it with vinegar until 
it can be easily mixed with the chicken and cabbage. Pour over the 
top the remainder of the dressing. Some like a little sugar in the 
dressing. 

195. Roast Turkey with Oyster Stuffing — Dress and rub 

the turkey well, inside and out, with salt and pepper; truss or twine it; 
put in a steamer and steam two hours, or until it begins to grow tender, 
lifting the cover occasionally and sprinkling lightly with salt; then take 
out, loosen the legs, and rub the inside again with salt and pepper. 
Make the stuffing as follows: Take a loaf of stale bread, cut off the crust 
and soften it in a pan with boiling water; drain off immediately and 
cover closely; crumble the soft part of the bread very fine, and add a 
half pound of melted butter, or more if to be very rich, and a teaspoon 
each of salt and pepper, or enough to season rather highly. Drain off 
the liquor from a quart of nice oysters, bring to a boil, skim and pour 
over the bread crumbs, adding the soaked crust and one or two eggs; 
mix all thoroughly with the hands, and if too dry, moisten with a little 
milk; lastly, add the oysters, being careful not to break them; or first 
put in a spoonful of stuffing and then three or four oysters, and so on 
until the turkey is filled, stuffing the breast first. Flour a small cloth 
and place over the openings, tying down with twine; spread the turkey 
all over with butter, salt and pepper; place in a dripping-pan in a well 



4 8 

heated oven; add half a pint water, and roast two hours, basting often 
with a little water, butter, salt and pepper, kept warm in tin placed on 
the back of the stove. A swab is better than a spoon to baste with. 
Turn until nicely browned on all sides, and about half an hour before it 
is done, baste with butter alone and dredge with a little flour, which will 
give the turkey a frothy appearance. When the turkey is dished, if 
there is much fat in the pan, pour off most of it and add the giblets, 
together with the water in which they have previously been cooked 
until tender, now stewed down to about a pint; place one or two heap- 
ing tablespoons flour (half of it browned flour) in a pint bowl, mix 
smooth in a little cream or milk, and add to the gravy in the pan; boil 
several minutes, constantly stirring and pour into a gravy tureen. Serve 
with currant or apple jelly. This is an excellent way to cook a large 
turkey; while, from being steamed, it does not make so good an appear- 
ance at table, it will prove very tender and palatable. 

196. Roast Turkey, English Style — Kill several days before 
cooking, and let it hang by the legs until used. Prepare in the usual 
manner; stuff with bread crumbs — rejecting the crust — rubbed fine, 
moistened with butter and two eggs, and seasoned with salt, pepper, 
parsley, sage and sweet marjoram; sew up, truss and place to roast in a 
rack within a dripping-pan; spread with bits of butter, turn it and baste 
frequently with butter, pepper, salt and water; a few minutes before it 
is done glaze over with the white of an egg; take up the turkey, pour 
off most of the fat, add the chopped giblets and the water in which 
they were boiled, which thicken with flour and butter rubbed together; 
stir all in the dripping pan, let it boil once well, and serve in a gravy 
boat. Serve with celery-sauce and stewed gooseberries. Garnish with 
fried oysters. Select a turkey of eight to ten pounds. If in roasting 
it is likely to brown too much, cover with a white paper, buttered. 

197. Boned Turkey — With a sharp knife slit the skin down the 
back, and raising one side at a time with the fingers, separate the flesh 
from the bones with a knife until the wings and legs are reached. 
These unjoint from the body, and cutting through to the bone, turn 
back the flesh and remove the bones. When the bones are removed 
the flesh may be reshaped by stuffing. Some leave the bones in the 
wings and legs, as they are quite difficult to remove. Stuff with a force- 
meat made of cold lamb or veal, and a little pork chopped fine and 
seasoned with salt, pepper, sage or savory, and the juice of one lemon; 
sew into shape, turn the ends of the wings under, and press the legs 
close to the back, and tie all firmly, so that the upper surface may be 
plump and smooth for the carver. Lard with two or three rows on the 
top; bake until thoroughly done, basting often with salt and water and 
a little butter. This is a difficult dish to attempt by any but skillful 
cooks. Carve across in slices, and serve with tomato sauce. 

198. Boiled Turkey Stuffed with Oysters— Wash it thor- 
oughly and rub salt through it; fill with a stuffing of bread and butter, 
moistened with milk and seasoned with sage, salt and pepper, mixed 
with a pint raw oysters; tie the legs and wings close to the body, place 
in salted boiling water with the breast downward; skim often; boil 



49 . 

about two hours, but not till the skin breaks; serve with oyster sauce. 
Boil a piece of nicely-pickled salt pork, and serve at table a thin slice 
to each plate. Some use bacon or ham instead of pork. 

199. Roast Goose — The goose should not be more than eight 
months old, and the fatter the more tender and juicy the meat. A " green 
goose," about four months old, is the choicest. Kill at least twenty- 
four hours before cooking; dress and stuff; prepare a gravy as directed 
for roast duck, tame or wild (see No. 212.) Bake two hours or more. 
If an old goose it will have red and hairy legs, and should be par-boiled; 
if too old, is unfit for the table. 

200. Deviled Goose — Take the legs and wings of cold roast 
goose; broil them on a gridiron until heated through; have ready a 
little butter, pepper, salt and English mustard, and one tablespoon sharp 
wine or cider vinegar, all mixed together. Turn this over the goose 
and serve hot. 

201. Roast Duck— (See Roast Duck, Tame or Wild, No. 212.) 

202. A Stuffing for Ducks, Chickens or Beef— Prepare 
some boiled and mashed potatoes, as if for the table; except they should 
be rather dryer, stuff the chickens (or a roast of beef) with this, and 
bake them as usual. For ducks add finely chopped onion. If a bread 
dressing is also desired, it may be cooked in the corner of the pan. 

203. Boiled Duck — Dress and rub inside with salt and pepper; 
truss and tie in shape, drawing the legs into the body, in which put one 
or two leaves of sage, a little finely-chopped onion and a little jellied 
stock or gravy; rub over with salt and pepper; make a paste in the pro- 
portion of one-half pound of butter to one pound of flour, in which 
enclose the duck; tie a cloth around all, and boil two hours or until 
quite tender, keeping it well covered with boiling water. Make a brown 
gravy, as follows: Put an egg-sized lump of butter in a sauce-pan, 
with a little minced onion; cook until slightly brown, and add a small 
tablespoon flour; stir well, and when quite brown add a half pint of 
stock or water. Let cook a few minutes, strain and add the chopped 
giblets which have been previously stewed tender. 

204. Duck Pie — Cut all the meat from cold roast ducks; put 
the bones and stuffing into cold water; cover them and let boil; put the 
meat into a deep dish, pour on enough of the stock made from the bones 
to moisten; cover with pastry slit in the center with a knife and bake a 
light brown. 

205. Deviled Turkey — Cut gashes in the legs and upper 
joints of cold roast turkey, and rub in pepper, salt and mustard (some 
use curry powder also); heat them through on a gridiron. Serve very 
hot. 

GAME. 

Note. — The rule for cooking is for all white-meated game to be 
cooked well done, and dark-meated, under done or rare. The general 
taste will, however, require all to be well cooked. The keeping of game 
hanging for some time will make it more tender, and bring out the 



5o 

flavor so highly appreciated by the epicure, but not so well favored 
by a majority of the community. 

206. Venison — When young, the fat is thick, clear and close, 
and the meat a reddish brown. It first begins to taint near the haunches; 
test by running in a knife or steel; if tainted, there will be a rank smell 
and a greenish appearance. It may, however, be kept a long time by the 
following process: Wash it well in milk and water, and dry perfectly 
with a cloth; then dust ground black pepper over every part. The flesh 
of the doe about four years old is the sweetest and best. Either the 
haunch, neck, shoulder or saddle should be roasted, the breast broiled, 
and fry or broil the steaks with salt pork. Being a rather lean meat, 
roasts require much larding. The steaks require more cooking than 
for beef. 

207. Saddle of Venison — Use a saddle of venison of about 
ten pounds. Cut some salt pork in strips about two inches long 
and an eighth of an inch thick, with which lard the saddle, with two 
rows on each side. In a large dripping-pan cut two carrots, one onion, 
and some salt pork in thin slices; add two bay leaves, two cloves, four 
kernels of allspice, half a lemon, sliced, and season with salt and 
pepper; place the saddle of venison in the pan, with a quart of good 
stock and a small piece of butter, and let it boil about fifteen minutes 
on top of the stove; then put it in a hot oven and bake, basting well 
every five minutes, until it is medium rare, so that the blood runs when 
cut; serve with jelly or a wine sauce. If the venison is desired well 
done, cook much longer, and use a cream sauce with it. — Grand Pacific 
Hotel, Chicago. 

208. Roast Haunch of Venison — Wash in warm water and 
dry with a cloth; butter a sheet of white paper and put over the fat; 
lay it in a deep baking-dish, with a very little hot water; cover with a 
close-fitting lid or with a coarse paste half an inch thick, smeared even- 
ly over the top; if the latter is used, lay over it one or two sheets of 
coarse paper. Cook in a moderate oven for three to four hours, ac- 
cording to the size of the haunch; about twenty minutes before it is 
done quicken the fire a little, remove the dish cover (or paper and 
paste), dredge with flour, and baste well with butter until nicely frothed 
and of a delicate brown; garnish the knuckle bone with a frill of white 
paper, and serve with a gravy made from its own drippings, the platter 
and plates very hot. Currant jelly is the conventional relish with roast 
venison. 

209. Roast Wild Goose — As a rule wild geese have a strong 
or fishy flavor, and are inferior to wild duck. If you have one, how- 
ever, dress and cook same as for tame roast goose (No. 199). 

210. Wild Ducks — There are many varieties of ducks peculiar 
to different sections, of which the canvas-back, mallard, teal, and at 
the South the red-head, are leading favorites. Young ducks are tender 
under the wings and have transparent webs; wild ducks have reddish 
legs, and tame ones yellow. If wild ducks are fishy, they should be 



5i 

scalded in salt and water before washing, and if old, they should be 
parboiled. 

212. Roast Duck (Tame or Wild) — Cut the neck close to 
the back, beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling-pin, tie the wings and 
legs securely, and stuff with the following : Three pints bread 
crumbs, six ounces butter, or part butter and salt pork, two chopped 
onions and one teaspoon each of sage, black pepper and salt. Do not 
stuff very full, and sew up the openings firmly to keep the flavor in and 
the fat out. If not fat enough it should be larded with salt pork or tie 
a slice upon the breast. Place in a baking-pan, with a little water, and 
baste frequently with salt and water — some add onion and some 
vinegar — turn often, so that the sides and back may all be nicely 
browned. When nearly done, baste with butter and a little flour. 
These directions will apply to tame geese as well as ducks. Young 
ducks should roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and full-grown 
ones for an hour or more, with frequent basting. If quite old, parboil 
a few minutes before roasting. Some prefer them underdone, but 
served very hot; but, as a rule, thorough cooking will prove more palat- 
able. Serve with currant jelly or apple sauce and green peas. 

213. Game Pie — Family Style (For io persons) — Clean well 
inside and out, about two dozen small birds — quail, snipe, woodcock, 
etc. — and split them in half; put them in a saucepan, with some soup 
stock or beef broth, if you have it; if not, use a gallon of cold water; 
put over a hot fire, and when it boils skim off allscum that rises; then 
add a little salt, pepper, ground cloves, mace, one bay leaf, two small 
carrots, and one onion, with three cloves stuck in it. Add half a pound 
of salt pork cut into dice, and let all boil until tender; use care that there 
be enough broth to cover the birds. 

Put in another saucepan a quarter pound of butter, with two table- 
spoons browned flour; mix it well, and stir it into a part of the broth 
or gravy, making a thin sauce; strain off the rest of the broth, and 
remove the vegetables and spices, which add to the sauce. Cut some 
potatoes into small dice, about the same quantity as meat, and put all 
into a deep dish or bowl; cover with a paste or dough, and bake slowly. 
The baking may be done in small vegetable dishes, forming a pie for 
each person. — Grand Pacific Hotel, Chicago. 

214. Roast Prairie Chicken or Pheasant—Carefully cut out 
all the shot, wash thoroughly but quickly, using some soda in the water, 
rinse and dry ; stuff, sew up and tie down, or skewer through 
the legs and wings. Place in a steamer over hot water until tender, 
then remove to a dripping-pan, cover with butter, sprinkle with salt and 
pepper, dredge with flour, place in the oven, and baste with melted but- 
ter until a nice brown. Serve with either apple-sauce, cranberries or 
currant jelly. 

215. Broiled Pheasant or Prairie Chicken — Scald and skin, 
cut off the breast, and the rest up in joints, being careful to remove all 
shot; put in hot water, all except the breast, and boil until it can be 



52 

easily pierced with a fork; take out, rub over with salt, pepper and butter, 
and broil with the breast over a brisk fire; take out, place a lump of but- 
ter on each piece, and set all in the oven a few minutes. 

Squirrels may be prepared in this manner, but with no separation 
of the meat. 

216. Roast Quails — Pluck and dress like chicken, wipe clean, 
and rub both inside and out with salt and pepper; stuff with any of 
the stuffings fancied for poultry or game, and sew up ; spread 
them with butter, and place in a hot oven with a good, steady 
heat, turning and basting often with hot salted water, butter and pepper. 
Bake three-quarters of an hour. When about half done, add a little hot 
water to the pan, and also place another dripping-pan over them to 
prevent browning too much; add to the gravy in the pan flour and 
butter rubbed together, and water if needed. 

217. Quail on Toast — Dry, pick and singe them with paper; 
cut off the head, and the legs at first joint; draw and split them down 
the back; sOak in salted water for five or ten minutes; drain and dry with 
a cloth; lard them with bacon or butter, and rub salt over them; place 
on a broiler and turn often, dipping two or three times into melted 
butter; broil about twenty minutes. Have ready as many slices of 
nicely buttered toast as there are birds, and place one on each slice, 
breast upwards. All should go to table hot' and with hot plates. 

218. Reed Birds — Roast before an open fire, suspended by a 
wire or string, and kept turning (or, put in a row on a skewer and use 
an English bottle-jack), let drip in a pan, basting. This is the Southern 
method and the best. Or, they may be boiled in a crust like dumplings. 

219. Reed Birds Au Pomme de Terre — Wash and peel very 
thinly quite large potatoes of equal size; cut a deep slice off one end of 
each, and scoop out a hole large enough to contain a bird; drop a bit of 
butter into each bird, with pepper and salt, and put one into the hole of 
each potato, putting on as covers the slices cut off; clip off the other 
end so they will stand upright. When so arranged set in a baking pan 
with a little water to prevent burning; bake slowly and serve in the 
same dish. 

220. Snipe — Are best roasted with a piece of salt pork tied 
on to the breast; or, they may be stuffed and baked like quail; or, 
broiled same as woodcock. 

221. Woodcock — Of all game birds this outranks in tender- 
ness and delicacy of flavor, the thigh being the tidbit. 

To Broil — Split them through the back, basting with butter, and 
serve on toast, the beak under the wing. 

To Roast — Split them, place in a Dutch oven before an open fire, and 
bake for fifteen or twenty minutes, as fancied, under or well done. 

* 222. Fried Woodcock — Dress, wipe clean; tie the legs; skin 
the head and neck; turn the beak under the wing and tie it; tie a 
piece of bacon over it, and immerse in boiling fat two or three minutes. 
Serve on browned toast, nicely trimmed and buttered. 



53 

223. Squirrels — There are many species common to this country, 
among them the black, red, gray and fox. Gophers and chipmunks may 
also be classed as another, but smaller variety. They should be carefully 
skinned and laid in salt water a short time before cooking; if old, should 
be parboiled. They are fine when broiled, the hind quarters being the 
choicest parts, unless when in the fall they are fat and full breasted. 
Are excellent cooked in any other way, with thin slices of pork. They 
are also delicious when made into a pie, like Veal or Chicken. 

224. Rabbits — They are in the best condition in mid-winter, 
and may be fricasseed, like chicken, in white or brov/n sauce, or made 
like a chicken pie. 

225. Roast Rabbits— Stuff with a stuffing made of bread 
crumbs, chopped salt pork, thyme, onion, pepper and salt; sew up; rub 
over with a little butter, or secure in it a few slices salt pork; add some 
water in the pan, and baste often. Serve mashed potatoes and currant 
jelly with it. 

226 # Pigeons — Should be cooked a long time, as they are usually 
quite lean and tough, except the squabs or young ones, and are better to 
lie in salt water half an hour before cooking; if old, parboil. Are 
nice roasted, or made into a pie, or the breast broiled. 

327. Pigeon Pot Pie — Prepare and cook same as Veal 
Poi-pie. See No. 171. 

228. Compote of Pigeons (For 10 persons)— Use one dozen 
dressed pigeons. Cut up some vegetables very thin, and put in a roast- 
ing pan with thih rashers of salt pork and some spices; lay in the pigeons, 
breast upwards, and sprinkle them with salt and pepper; bake in a hot 
oven, turning them over once or twice, until a nice brown; dredge 
with a little flour, and brown again. Remove the pigeons to a stewpan, 
and strain the gravy, to add to the pigeons; if not sufficient, use some 
beef broth, to make enough to cover them, and cook until done; then 
cut some salt pork in small strips, fry them well in a pan, and drain off 
the fat; add the pork to the pigeons, and serve on toast. — Grand Pacific 
Hotel, Chicago. 

229. Broiled Plover — Split through the back and broil over a 
hot fire, basting frequently with butter. When done, place a bit of 
butter on each piece, and set in the oven a few minutes to brown. 
Serve on pieces of buttered toast, with currant jelly. 

A Hint to Sportsmen. — To those who may wish to keep^ prairie chickens, 
pheasants or other game birds in very hot weather, or to ship long distances, 
it may prove of value to learn the best manner of doing so. Draw the birds 
as soon as killed ; force down the throat two or three whole peppers, tying a 
string around just above them ; sprinkle inside a little powdered charcoal, and 
fill the cavity of the body with very dry grass — green or wet grass, being heating, 
will hasten decay. If birds are to be shipped without drawing, force a piece 
of charcoal into the vent, tie a string close around the neck to exclude the air, 
and make a loop in the string to hang up by. Thus prepared, will bear ship- 
ment a long distance. 



THE 



Heath & Milligan 

"Best" Prepared Paints 

(READY FOR. USE). 



The subject of successfully ornamenting our houses by using 
divers cofored paints on the same building having during the past 
three years become a study, we, in order to meet the demand, 
have added to our "BEST" PREPARED PAINTS one tint after 
another, until now we manufacture seventy-five distinct, beau- 
tiful, rich and attractive shades. This spring we have brought 
out some rare tints which are very fashionable, and which 
are exceedingly tasty and pleasing. From this variety of tints 
one cannot fail to make a suitable and satisfactory selection, and 
to be able to make an almost endless number of effective and har- 
monious combinations. As to the quality of our goods, we would 
say they are made from pure material, and we guarantee them to 
cover as much surface as Strictly Pure White Lead and Linseed 
Oil; to impart a much finer and more beautiful finish, and to 
greatly surpass it in durability. They wear without cracking, 
chalking or peeling off, and weather exposure has but little effect 
upon them. They give universal satisfaction, and are commended 
by all who have used them. 



Ask your Local Dealers for Sample Cards, and Prices. Should they not have 
them at hand, do not "be put off with any substitute, but persuade your Merchant 
to send for what you want ; failing- in this, direct Communication with our House 
will insure a prompt response. 



HEATH & MILLIGAN MFG. CO, 

170-174 Randolph St., Chicago, 111. 



FISH. 



Note, — When fish are fresh, the eyes are full and bright, the gills a 
fine, clear red, the body stiff, and the smell not unpleasant. The flavor 
and excellence of salmon is especially dependent on its freshness: 
Mackerel should be freshly caught, or are nearly worthless. Nearly all 
the larger fish are usually boiled, the medium-sized baked or boiled, 
and smaller kinds fried. The very large ones, as cod, halibut, etc., are 
cut in steaks or slices for frying or broiling. The heads of some fish, 
as the cod, halibut, etc. are considered tidbits by many. Brook- 
trout and smelts should be served with the heads, and most other pan- 
fish, without. As regards others, the heads are cooked and served 
simply for appearance, it being a matter of fancy whether they are 
served or not. Fish is less nutritious than meats, salmon excepted, 
which is very hearty. The white kinds are least nutritious, and the 
oily kinds the more difficult of digestion. All fish should be well done 
and served quite hot. 

230. Boiled Fish— General Directions— ¥ or this purpose a 
regular fish-kettle is very convenient. It is of oblong form, occupying 
the place of two holes on a stove or range, and contains a perforated 
tin rack (5r plate, with a long handle at each end, and resting on the feet 
a few inches above the bottom. On this the fish rests when boiling, and 
upon which it is lifted out when done, to avoid breaking. In lieu of a fish 
kettle, wrap the fish in a cloth, with which it maybe gently lifted from the 
kettle when done. Steaming fish is far superior to boiling, in which case 
a rack similar to the one above described may be fitted to an ordinary 
wash boiler; have the holes the size of a five-cent piece. In boiling, the 
addition of salt and vinegar to the water pleasantly seasons the fish, and 
hardens the water, so that less of the nutriment is extracted. Always 
have the water boiling hot when first put in, and then set where it will 
simmer gently until done; the rule is to allow five to ten minutes to the 
pound, according to thickness. In boiling salmon, put into tepid water 
only, in order to preserve its fine color, increasing it to the boiling point, 
and then boil gently until done. To test, pass a knife along a bone, 
and if done, it will separate readily. Do not prod it with a fork. All 
fish should be boiled, steamed or baked in the position, as nearly as 
possible, that it assumes when in the water. To effect this, place the 
fish on its belly, and bend the head and tail in opposite directions, 
thus, (S). To keep it in position, tie a stout cord around the tail, pass 
it through the body, and tie to the head. % % 

) Fill the fish with a nicely prepared stuffing of rolled cracker or 
stale bread crumbs, seasoned with butter, pepper, salt, sage, and 
any other aromatic herbs fancied; sew up; wrap in a well floured cloth 
tied closely with twine, and boil or steam. The garnishes for boiled 
fish are: For turbot, fried smelts; for other boiled fish, parsley, sliced 



56 

beets, lobster coral, or sliced boiled egg. Do not use the knives, spoons, 
etc., that are used in cooking fish, for other food, or they will be apt to 
impart a fishy flavor. 

231. Steamed Fish — Secure the tail of the fish in its mouth, 
the body in a circle; pour over it half a pint of vinegar, seasoned with 
pepper and salt; let it stand an hour in a cool place; pour off the vine- 
gar, and put it in a steamer over boiling water, and steam twenty minutes, 
or longer for large fish. When the meat easily separates from the bone 
it is done. Drain well, and serve on a very clean white napkin, neatly 
folded and placed on the platter; decorate the napkin around the fish 
with sprigs of curled parsley, or with fanciful beet cuttings, or alter- 
nately with both. 

232. Boiled Fresh Cod — Put the fish in a fish-kettle, or pro- 
ceed as above, and place in boiling water with some salt and scraped 
horse-radish; let it simmer until done. Place a folded napkin on a 
platter, turn the fish upon it, and serve with drawn butter, oyster or 
egg sauce. 

233. Boiled Codfish — Soak in a pan of water" over night, and 
simmer two or three hours, or until well done. Serve with drawn 
butter, with hard boiled egg chopped fine and stirred in; also garnish 
the fish with slices of hard boiled egg laid on it or around the edge. 

234. Broiled Codfish — Fresh codfish steaks are excellent 
broiled. After soaking sufficiently, grease the bars of the gridiron, 
broil well, but do not burn. Serve with bits of butter dropped over it, 
and garnish with fanciful pieces of sliced pickled beet, drained, and 
placed around the edge of the platter. 

235. Codfish a la Mode — Pick up a teacup of salt codfish 
very fine, and freshen- — the desiccated is nice to use — two cups mashed 
potatoes, one pint cream or milk, two well beaten eggs, half a cup 
butter, salt and pepper; mix; bake in an earthen baking dish from 
twenty to twenty-five minutes; serve in same dish, placed on a small 
platter, covered with a fine napkin. 

236. Stewed Codfish — Select a thick and very white codfish, 
or use the desiccated; pick in small pieces, and put in cold water to 
freshen; if desired soon, pour off and change the water frequently, but 
be sure and not get it too fresh. When properly freshened, put it in a 
stewpan, with one to three cups of warm water, according to quantity; 
let it stew slowly, and not boil, for half an hour; then add a c^p of 
milk thickened with flour, stew ten minutes longer, and just before 
serving, stir in one or two well beaten eggs. A nice breakfast dish 
with hot baked potatoes. 

237. Picked Codfish — Pick the fish in fine pieces, and soak 
in cold water until sufficiently freshened; then drain it well, and add 
milk enough to cover it. When well scalded, thicken with flour or corn- 
starch; season with pepper. When taken from the fire, add two eggs, 
well beaten, make a nice moist paste, and pour the fish over it, or serve 
plain if preferred. 



57 

338. Minced Cod— Flake up cold baked or boiled cod, and to 
three cups of fish add one of mashed potatoes, a lump of butter the 
size of a filbert, half a teaspoon corn-starch, and one beaten egg; heat 
all together, adding the egg last. 

239. Cod au Fromage— Of cold boiled macaroni, cut up in 
short bits, take a cupful, and one of cold boiled cod; mix together; put 
it in a buttered dish, and lay bits of butter over it; season with salt and 
pepper, and moisten with cold drawn butter, if you have it; if not, use 
milk; cover with fine bread crumbs, and sprinkle two tablespoons grated 
cheese on top; bake until brown, and serve in the bakmg-di-sh. 

240. Codfish Balls— Soak codfish, cut in small pieces, about 
an hour in lukewarm water; remove the skin and bones; pick up 
very fine; put it in cold water and place on the stove; when it boils, 
change the water and let boil again. Have ready some boiled potatoes 
mash and season with butter. While both are hot, put half the codfish 
with the potatoes; mix in a well beaten egg, and mould into round 
balls or thick cakes; then fry them in hot lard or drippings, or drop 
them, like doughnuts, in hot fat enough to float, and skim out. By 
reheating them, cold potatoes may be used, in which case add a little 
cream, or milk and butter, and mix while hot. 

241. Baked Salmon, Trout or Pickerel— Carefully clean 
and wipe the fish, and lay in a dripping-pan, with enough hot water 
to prevent scorching. A perforated sheet of tin, fitting loosely, or 
several muffin rings, maybe used to keep it off the bottom. Lay it 
in a circle on its belly, head and tair touching, and tied, or as directed 
in note on fish, bake slowly, basting often with butter and water. When 
done, have ready a cup of sweet cream to which a few spoons ot 
hot water have been added; stir in two large spoons of melted but- 
ter and a little chopped parsley; heat all by setting the cup in boiling 
water; add the gravy from the dripping-pan, and let boil up once; 
place the fish in a hot dish, and pour over it the sauce. Or an egg 
sauce may be made with drawn butter; stir in the yelk of an egg quickly, 
and then a teaspoon of chopped parsley. 

242. Baked White Fish or Shad— Thoroughly clean the 
fish; cut off the head, or not, as preferred; cut out the backbone from 
the head to within two inches of the tail, and stuff with the following: 
Soak stale bread in water, squeeze dry; cut in pieces a large onion, 
fry in butter, chop fine; add the bread, two ounces of butter, salt, 
pepper and a little parsley or sage; heat through, and when taken 
off the fire, add the yelks of two well beaten eggs; stuff the fish 
rather full, sew up with fine twine, and wrap with several coils of 
white tape. Rub the fish over slightly with butter; just cover the 
bottom of a baking-pan with hot water, and place the fish in it, 
standing back upward, and bent in the form of an S. Serve with the 
following dressing: ^'Reduce the yelks of two hard boiled eggs to a 
smooth paste with two tablespoons good salad oil ; stir in half a 
teaspoon English mustard, and add pepper and vinegar to taste. 



58 

243. Boiled White Fish— Cover in a fish-kettle or tie up in 
a cloth, and suspend 'in boiling water sufficient to cover it Let it 
simmer, allowing from eight to ten minutes to the pound; remove the 
scum as it rises; when about half done, add a little vinegar or lemon juice- 
take out, drain, and dish carefully without breaking; pour over it drawn 
butter, and sprinkle with fine green parsley, or garnish with sprigs of 
parsley, and serve an egg sauce with it. Lake or Mackinac trout may 
also be cooked in same manner. 

244. Broiled White Fish or Shad— Of the two fish the 
former is preferable, not only for its flavor, but on account of the great 
number of fine bones in the shad. Clean, and in case a white fish is 
used, split down the back; if a shad, split open in front, and also make 
a slit along the backbone, so it will lie flat to broil. Put the fish first 
inside down on the gridiron— well greased— and when nicely brown 
turn carefully over so as not to break the skin. For this purpose use a 
pan-cake turner. It should take about twenty to twenty-five minutes to 
be done thoroughly over live coals. 

245. Broiled Salt White Fish— Freshen over night in suffi- 
cient buttermilk or sweet milk (skimmed milk will answer) to cover 
placing it flesh side down. Broil same as in preceding recipe and 
serve with a gravy of hot cream, to which is added a half spoon of 
butter; salt to taste. 

246. Fried Fish— Most of the smaller fish (generally termed 
pan-fish) are usually fried. Clean well, cut off the head, and, if quite 
large, cut out the backbone, and- slice the body crosswise into five or 
six pieces. Dip in Indian meal or wheat flour, or in beaten egg, 
and roll in bread or fine cracker crumbs— trout and perch should not 
be dipped in meal; put into a thick bottomed iron frying-pan the 
flesh side down, with hot lard or drippings (not in butter, as it' dis- 
colors the fish, and also destroys some of its sweetness) ; fry slowly 
turning when lightly browned. The following method may be deemed 
preferable: Dredge the pieces with flour; brush them over with beaten 
egg; roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard or drippings sufficient to 
cover. If the fat is very hot, the fish will fry without absorbing it, and 
it will be palatably cooked. When browned on one side, turn it'over 
in the fat and brown the other, draining when done. This is par- 
ticularly a good way to fry slices of large fish. Serve with tomato 
sauce; garnish with slices of lemon. 

247. Brook Trout — These delicate fish are always fried. Wash 
and drain in a colander, split nearly to the tail, flour them nicely salt 
and put in a frying-pan, hot but not burning. If you use lard instead 
of the fat of fried salt pork,. which is preferable, throw in a little salt to 
prevent their sticking. Do not turn them until sufficiently browned for 
the table. They are to be fried crisp, or only browned, according to 
fancy. They are nice fried and served with slices of side salt pork 
when both should be done crisp. Cook and serve brook trout with 
their heads. 



59 

248. Fried Smelts — Fry with the heads on, same as brook 
trout. See No. 247. 

249. Pan Fish — Fried — Place them in the frying-pan with the 
heads all lying the same way, and the spaces between fill in with smaller 
fish. When done to turn, place a plate over the whole and drain off 
the fat; invert the pan and they will be left unbroken on the plate. Put 
back the fat again in the pan, and when quite hot slip in the fish care- 
fully, and when that side is also done, drain on the plate as before, and 
slip them on a hot platter for the table. With care they will be unbroken, 
and with the heads on will make a fine appearing dish. 

250. Stewed Fish — Cut any kind of large fresh-water fish in 
slices across, an inch and a half thick, and sprinkle with salt. Boil two 
sliced onions until done; pour off the water and season with pepper and 
salt; add two cups hot water and a little parsley, and in this simmer the 
fish until done. Serve quite hot. 

251. Boiled Salt Mackerel — After freshening, wrap a cloth 
around and simmer for fifteen minutes. It will be about done as soon 
as the water slowly reaches boiling. Remove it carefully from the 
cloth to a platter, skin side up if it be unbroken. Place on it the slices 
of two hard boiled eggs, and pour around it, not covering, a drawn 
butter. Trim the platter with leaves of parsley or celery. Salt fish is 
much sooner boiled than fresh fish, while excessive boiling hardens it. 

252. Broiled Salt Mackerel — This is more particularly a 
breakfast dish, and may be freshened over night, placing the fish in 
cold water, skin side up. Broil quickly, but do not burn, placing the 
skin side next the gridiron, and turning it. A wire broiler is the best 
to broil it on. When done, slip it off on a hot platter, without break- 
ing, and serve with skin side up. Garnish with parsley or slices of 
lemon laid on the fish. 

253. Fish Chowder— The best fish for chov/der are haddock 
and sea or striped bass, although any kind of fresh fish may be used, 
those having large flakes being preferred. Cut in pieces over an inch 
thick and two inches square; place eight good sized slices of salt pork 
in the bottom of an iron pot and fry crisp; remove the pork, leaving 
the fat; put in the pot a layer of fish, a layer of split cracker, and some 
of the pork chopped fine, with black and red pepper and chopped 
onions; then another layer of fish, another of cracker, etc., etc., until 
the pot is full; cover with water and stew slowly until the fish is per- 
fectly done; remove the fish from the pot to a dish in which it is to be 
served, and keep it hot; thicken the gravy with rolled cracker or flour; 
boil up once, and pour over the chowder. 

254. Salmon Gratin — One coffeecup of cold boiled salmon, 
pulled into flakes with a fork; mix with this half a cup of cold drawn 
butter, pepper and salt; fill small cup-cake tins or sauce plates; cover 
with fine bread crumbs; place in the oven and brown. 

255. Crumbed Haddock — Remove the skin and bones from 
cold boiled haddock, and boil with half a small onion; pick the fish into 
flakes, and mix with each pint of fish one teaspoon salt, half a teaspoon 



6o 

of pepper and a cup of dry bread crumbs; fill a buttered dish half full 
and pour in what remains of the drawn butter, or make a cup full; add 
the rest of the fish, sprinkle crumbs over the top, moisten with the water 
in which the bones were boiled, and bake about twenty minutes. It 
should be more moist than scalloped oysters. 

256. Pickled Halibut— Take a good shaped piece of cold 
boiled halibut, stick half a dozen cloves in it, put it in a bowl and pour 
over it hot vinegar in which has been boiled a small bit of red pepper 
and a blade of mace; next day arrange around the edge of a dish some 
fresh crisp lettuce leaves; place the pickled fish in the center and pour 
over it what remains of the vinegar. 

SHELL FISH. 

Ovsters— Note— This succulent bivalve forms an important, and, 
in many localities, an inexpensive article of food. The great variety of 
ways in which they maybe quickly and excellency cooked, render them 
prime favorites with nearly every housewife. They are in their best 
season from September to April-the months spelled with an r —and 
were formerly considered quite unwholesome during the others^ New 
methods of cultivation have, however, so far improved them that they 
are now eaten in large cities, more or less, all the year round. 

Ovsters in the shell must be kept in a cool cellar, in conical-shaped 
heaps/occasionally sprinkled over with Indian meal or middlings, and 
drenched with salt water. In this way, and if free from frost, they may 
be kept sound for considerable time. Opened oysters, or oyster meats, 
come both canned, and in bulk by measure. They were formerly put up 
in kegs, but this method has been entirely superseded by the can* In 
some localities the largest of selected oysters are termed "Counts, and 
are sold by the hundred, and not by measure or canned: They are 
larger and whiter, but not of so fine flavor as the smaller or less culti- 
vated varieties, the small, uncultivated native, when fresh being the 
sweetest of all. Of the canned oysters, the larger are termed Selects 
XXX "Stars" or other fanciful names given by different oyster 
packers.' The smaller kinds are known as " Standards" one X etc. 

When shell oysters are fresh, the shell is firmly closed; if partly 
open and it does not immediately close upon being touched, the oyster 
is dead and unfit for use. When canned oysters are spoued or sour, 
the cans will be swelled on the sides; never buy such. Freezing is 
quite injurious to oysters, as it kills them in the shell, and destroys 
in a great measure, the flavor of those in cans. Do not let oysters 
cooked in any manner stand, but serve them at once, as one great 
merit lies in their being eaten hot. 

257. Roast Oysters in the Shell— Select the large ones, those 
usually termed "Saddle Rocks," formerly known as a distinct variety 
but which are now but the large oysters selected from any beds; wash and 
wipe them, and place with the upper or deep shell down, to catch the 
juice, over or on live coals. When they open their shells, remove the 



6i 

shallow one, being careful to save all the juice in the other; place them, 
shells and all, on a hot platter, and send to table hot, to be seasoned by 
each person with butter and pepper to taste. If the oysters are fine, 
and they are just cooked enough and served all hot, this is the para- 
mount luxury in oyster eating. 

258. A Fulton Market or Eighteen-Penny Roast — Is still 
known in New York from the place at which it was and is still served, 
and from the original price of the dish. Take nine large oysters, wash, 
dry and roast over a charcoal fire. Two minutes after the shells open, 
they will be done. Take them up quickly, saving the juice in a small, 
shallow tin pan; keep hot until all are done; butter, sprinkle with pepper, 
and serve quickly. • 

259. Oysters in the Shell — Open the shells, keeping the 
deepest ones for use; melt some butter, season with minced parsley 
and pepper; when slightly cooled, roll each oyster in it, using care that 
it drips but little, and lay it in a shell; add to each a little lemon juice, 
cover with bread crumbs, place in a baking pan, and bake in a quick 
oven. Just before they are done, add a little salt. Serve in ths shells. 

260. Raw Oysters— On Half Shell— The finest for eating raw 
are those known as Shrewsburys, Blue Points or Cherry Stones — the 
names of the beds from which they are taken. Wash the shells, open 
them, and detach the upper or deep shell; loosen from the under 
shell by cutting the muscle clear — some term it the heart; serve six 
or nine to a plate, with a quarter of a lemon — to squeeze over them — in 
the center. Serve finely shaved white cabbage with them. t 

261. Raw Oysters— Without the Shells— Carefully open 
shell oysters, drain well in a colander, sprinkle with plenty of pepper 
and a little salt, place on the ice or a cool place, until served with Chili 
or Worcestershire sauce, horse-radish, lemon, or vinegar; also cut 
cabbage or pickled gherkins. 

262. Boiled Shell Oysters — Wash the shells very clean, put 
in a small wire basket, suspend in a kettle of boiling water, and when 
the shells open lift the basket, remove the upper shell, and serve on a' 
hot platter unseasoned. 

263. Broiled Oysters— On the Half Shell— Select large ones, 
clean the shells, and open, saving the juice; put the oysters in boiling 
water a few minutes; take out and place each in a deep shell, with 
some juice; place on a gridiron over a brisk fire, and when they begin 
to simmer season with butter, salt and pepper, and a drop of lemon 
juice if desired. Serve on the half shell, with celery as a relish. 

264. Broiled Oysters — Select large Count oysters, or shells 
that are just opened, dry them in a napkin, and broil on a fine wire 
broiler, turning frequently to preserve the juice. Serve quickly in a 
hot dish, with small bits of butter over them. 

265. Broiled Oysters — Dry a quart of oysters in a cloth, dip 
each in melted butter well peppered, and then in dry bread or cracker 
crumbs, also peppered; broil on a wire broiler over live coals five to 
seven minutes. Serve hot. 



62 

266. Grilled Oysters with Pork — On a small wire, bent in 
shape of a hairpin, string alternately, first a large oyster, then a small 
slice of salt pork, until the wire is full; fasten the ends into a long 
wooden handle, and hold before the fire until all are well browned. Serve 
with or without the pork, as preferred, seasoned with pepper. 

267. Steamed Oysters — Shells — Put some shell oysters in 
an air-tight vessel, the upper shell downwards, to save the juice when 
they open; set them over a pot of boiling water, and boil it hard for 
twenty minutes, or steam until the shells open, when they are done. 
Serve in the shells immediately, to be seasoned with salt and butter as 
eaten. 

268. Steamed Oysters — Wash and drain a quart of Counts, 
or Select oysters, put them in a pan and place in a steamer over boiling 
water; cover and steam till they are plump, with the edges ruffled and 
black. Place in a heated dish with butter, pepper and salt, and serve. 

269. Panned Oysters — Cut some stale bread in thin slices, 
taking off all the crust; round the slices to fit patty pans; toast, butter, 
place them in the pans and moisten with three or four teaspoons of 
oyster liquor; place on the toast a layer of oysters, sprinkle with pepper 
and put a small piece of butter on top of each pan; place all the pans 
in a baking pan and place in the oven, covering tightly. They will 
cook in seven or eight minutes if the oven is hot; of, cook till the beards 
are ruffled; remove the cover, sprinkle lightly with salt, replace and 
cook one minute longer. Serve in the patty pans. They are delicious. 

270. Panned Oysters — Lay in a thin pie tin or dripping pan 
half a pint of large oysters, or more if required; have the pan large enough 
so that each oyster will lie flat on the bottom; put in over them a little 
oyster liquor, but not enough to float; place them carefully in a hot 
oven and just heat them through thoroughly — do not bake them — which 
will be in three to five minutes, according to fire; take them up and 
place on toast, first moistened with the hot juice from the pan. Are a 
very good substitute for oysters roasted in the shell, the slow cooking- 
bringing out the flavor. 

271. Oyster Stew — Put the liquor from the oysters on the 
stove, let boil, skim and season with butter and pepper; add the oysters. 
Let it come to a boil only. Season with salt and serve. 

272. Oyster Stew — Take twelve to fifteen good sized opened 
oysters — those opened fresh from the shells preferred; place in half 
pint cold water in a stew pan; heat gradually until hot, skimming off 
all scum as it arises; when quite hot add half a pint warm milk; season 
with butter, pepper and salt if it requires it. Let it boil up once only, 
and serve in bowls or soup plates. Celery and cold raw cabbage to be 
served with it. 

273. Plain Oyster Stew — Same as a milk or cream stew (see 
No. 274), using pyster liquor or water instead of milk or cream, adding 
more butter after taking up. — Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and 
Clark streets, Chicago. 



63 

274. Oysters Stewed in Milk or Cream — Take half a pint 
good milk or cream, bring it to a boil, place in it one dozen medium 
sized oysters, and cook three to four minutes on a stove or range; 
season while cooking. Is a dish for one only. Use a like quantity for 
each additional person, but use all milk, or half each of milk and cream. 
— Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and Clark streets, Chicago. 

275. Dry Oyster Stew — Take six to twelve large oysters and 
cook them in half a pint of their own liquor; season with butter and 
white pepper; cook for five minutes, stirring constantly. Serve in 
hot soup plates or bowls. — Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and Clark 
streets, Chicago. 

276. Boston Fancy — To six or eight count or shell oysters 
use a half cup water or oyster liquor, season well with butter and pepper, 
and cook from three to five minutes, stirring constantly; serve on 
pointed slices of buttered toast standing in a bowl or soup plate, the 
points outward. — Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and Clark streets, 
Chicago. 

277. Neptune Oyster Stew — Six or eight shell oysters and 
four clams, just from the shells; stew four or five minutes in clam and 
oyster liquor mixed; add boiling milk or cream, and serve. It is quite 
necessary to add the milk quite hot, to prevent being soured by the 
clam juice. — Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and Clark streets, 
Chicago. 

278. Fried Oysters — Pour the liquor from the oysters; dip 
them in an egg batter niade of two eggs, well beaten, and milk to thin 
to about as thick as cream; after dipping, roll the oysters in cracker 
meal, and fry in hot lard until nicely browned on both sides. — Boston 
Oyster House, cor. Madison and Clark streets, Chicago. 

279. "Our Boston Fry " — Prepare the oysters in egg batter 
and fine cracker meal; fry in butter over a slow fire for about ten 
minutes; cover the hollow of a hot platter with tomato sauce; place 
the oysters in it, but not covering, garnished with chopped parsley 
sprinkled over the oysters. — Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and 
Clark streets, Chicago. 

280. Fried Oysters — For small oysters, drain them carefully; 
remove all bits of shell; sprinkle with pepper and salt, and set in a 
cool place ten to fifteen minutes; then, if oysters are quite small, 
pour them into a pan of fine rolled crackers, add the liquor, mix well, 
and let stand five minutes; add a very little salt and pepper, and mould 
into small cakes, with two or three oysters in each; roll into more dry 
cracker until well crusted, and fry in hot lard and butter, or beef 
drippings. Serve hot on a covered dish. 

281. Fried Oysters — Dip them in the yelk of egg well beaten 
and seasoned, then in corn meal with a little baking powder mixed with 
it, and fry in hot lard like doughnuts; when hot enough the lard will 
cease to bubble, and remain quite still; skim out quickly and drain; 
or, if you have a wire frying basket, place them on that and put it in 



6 4 

hot lard. If the fat is not perfectly clear, drop in a small peeled 
potato before frying, which will not only have the effect of clearing 
the fat, but also prevent its becoming too hot while frying. It is better 
not to touch oysters with the hand while preparing them for frying, as 
it tends to toughen them. All the turning and dipping can be well 
performed by the aid of a silver four-tined fork. 

282. Broiled Oysters — Prepare oysters the same as for frying; 
grease a fine meshed wire broiler with salt pork, and broil over an open 
charcoal or coke fire, until browned on both sides. Serve on toast, 
with a cream sauce, in which sprinkle a little chopped celery and 
parsley. — Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and Clark streets, Chicago. 

283. Fricasseed Oysters — Take a slice of raw ham, which 
has been pickled but not smoked, and soak in boiling water for half an 
hour; cut it in quite small pieces, and put in a saucepan with two-thirds 
of a pint of veal or chicken broth, well strained, the liquor from a quart 
of oysters, one small onion minced fine, and a little chopped parsley, sweet 
marjoram, and pepper; let them simmer for twenty minutes, and then 
boil rapidly two or three minutes; skim well, and add one scant table- 
spoon corn-starch mixed evenly in one-third cup of milk; stir con- 
stantly, and when it boils add the oysters and one ounce butter; after 
which just let it come to a boil, and remove the oysters to a deep dish; 
beat one egg, and add to it gradually some of the hot broth, and when 
cooked stir it into the pan; season with salt, and pour the whole over 
the oysters. When placed upon the table, squeeze the juice of a lemon 
over it. 

284. Oyster Pies — For each pie take a tin plate half the size 
around of an ordinary dinner plate; grease it and cover the bottom 
with a puff paste, as for pies; lay on it five or six select oysters, or 
enough to cover the bottom; butter them and season with a little salt 
and plenty of pepper; spread over this an egg batter, and cover with a 
crust of the paste, making small openings in it with a fork. Bake in a 
hot oven fifteen to twenty minutes, or until the top is nicely browned. — 
Boston Oyster House, cor. Madison and Clark streets, Chicago. 

285. Oyster Pie— Line a deep pie-dish with puff paste, dredge 
with flour, pour in a pint of oysters, season well with bits of butter, 
salt and pepper, and sprinkle flour over all; pour on some of the oyster 
liquor, and cover with a crust, having an opening in the center to allow 
the steam to escape. 

286. Oyster Pie — Line the pie-dish half way up with a good 
pie crust, fill the dish with pieces of stale bread, cover with a paste, 
and bake about twenty minutes in a brisk oven; take off the crust, 
have ready some nicely stewed oysters, or prepared as if for patties, 
fill the pie with them, replace the crust, and serve at once. 

287. Oyster Pie — Line a dish with a good puff paste, putting 
an extra layer around the edge, and bake in a brisk oven; after bak- 
ing, fill with oysters, season with pepper, salt, and one tablespoon of 
-butter; sprinkle lightly with flour, and cover with a thin crust of the 



65 

paste; bake quickly. When the top crust is done the pie will be ready 
to take out. Serve promptly, as the crust quickly absorbs the gravy. 
Some like this cold for picnics or traveling. 

288. Escalloped Oysters — Cover the bottom of a well-buttered 
baking dish with a layer of bread or cracker crumbs, and wet them 
with half cup of cream or milk, put on in spoonsful ; salt and pepper, 
and add bits of butter; then add one quart oysters, with the liquor; 
pepper and drop on small bits of butter; over these sprinkle thickly a 
layer of crumbs, wet them, and put on more butter; cover over tightly, 
and bake from half to three-quarters of an hour, or until the juice 
bubbles up; remove the cover, and brown over the top in a hotter part 
of oven for a few minutes. Serve in the baking-dish. 

289. Oysters with Veal — (See Veal with Oysters, No. 
172.) 

290. Oyster Fritters — Select plump, good-sized oysters; drain 
off the juice, and to a cupful of which add a cup of milk, two or three 
eggs, salt and pepper, and flour enough to make a rather thick batter; 
take up an oyster, cover it well with the batter, and drop in hot lard to 
fry, same as other fritters. 

291. Oyster Croquettes — (See Chicken and Oyster Cro- 
quettes, No. 193.) 

292. Oyster Patties — Put fifty freshly opened oysters into a 
sauce pan over a quick fire; let them boil, and skim; strain them quite 
dry saving the liquor; take of butter and flour each a tablespoon and 
a half; mix well together; let simmer over the fire until clear; then 
add the oyster liquor and a pint of cream; season with salt, pepper and 
a little nutmeg, and a very little cayenne; let all boil about twenty 
minutes, strain, add the oysters and finish with a little butter. The 
patties should be ready; place a spoonful of the stew in each; put on 
the cover and serve. — FermandFM, Chef de Cuisine, Astor House \ JV. Y. 

293. Oyster Patties — (See Veal Patties, No. 175). Stewing 
the oysters in the ordinary way, without pork or celery seasoning. 

294. Deviled Oysters — Wipe them dry, and lay in a flat dish; 
cover with a mixture of melted butter, cayenne pepper — or pepper 
sauce — and lemon juice; let them lie for ten minutes, turning frequently; 
roll in cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg, and again in the crumbs; 
fry in hot lard and butter, mixed half and half. Serve quite hot. 

CLAMS. 

Note. — There are several varieties of clams, the round or hard- 
shell (known on the sea coast as quahogs) being in most common use, 
are the coarser kind, and quite strong in flavor. The more delicate 
kinds are little-necks, princes-bays, and soft-shells (the latter being in 
season during the cold months only, and should especially be fresh). 
Without possessing the delicate flavor of the oyster, they may be readily 
prepared in many ways to form a very desirable edible, while some of 
the dishes given are held in great estimation, particularly at the seaside. 



66 

295. Clam Chowder— ( The New Bedford A?a>*)— The mate- 
rials needed are fifty round clams (quahogs), a large bowl of salt pork 
cut up fine, the same of onions finely chopped, and same (or more if 
you desire) of potatoes cut into eighths or sixteenths of original size; 
wash the clams very thoroughly, and put them in a pot with half a pint 
of water; when the shells are open they are done; then take them 
from the shells and chop fine, saving all the clam water for the chowder; 
fry out the pork very gently, and when the scraps are a good brown, 
take them out and put in the chopped onions to fry; they should be 
fried in a frying-pan and the chowder-kettle be made very clean before 
they are put in it, or the chowder will burn. (The chief secret in 
chowder-making is to fry the onions so delicately that they will be 
missing in the chowder.) 

Add a quart of hot water to the onions; put in the clams, clam- 
water and pork scraps. After it boils, add the potatoes, and when they 
are cooked, the chowder is finished. Just before it is taken up, thicken 
it with a cup of powdered crackers and add a quart of fresh milk. If 
too rich, add more water. No seasoning is needed but good black 
pepper. 

296. Clam Chowder — Take fifty quahogs and chop them up; 
peel and slice ten raw potatoes; cut into dice size six onions and half a 
pound fat salt pork; slice six tomatoes or use a large cup of canned 
tomatoes; one pound Boston or pilot crackers (sea biscuits). First put 
the pork in the bottom of the pot and try out; partly cook the onions 
in pork fat and remove; lay in the pot alternately the different ingre- 
dients as prepared, season with pepper and salt, cover with water and 
boil an hour and a half, with an inverted plate over to keep in the 
steam. Stir in a little chopped parsley just before taking up, as it will 
add to the appearance if not flavor of the dish. 

297. Clam Stew — Take half a peck hard-shell clams, wash 
them clean, and put them in a kettle with about one cup water; let 
them steam until they open; take them out and remove from the shell, 
saving the juice; strain it, and with the clams return to the pot; after 
coming to a boil, add a pint milk, an egg-sized lump of butter, three 
crackers rolled fine, pepper, and salt if needed, which it will probably 
not. 

298. Clam and Oyster Stew — Use about half the quantity of 
clams and proceed as above, using the same quantity of canned or 
count oysters as that of clams after they are taken from the shells, and 
cook as above directed. 

299. Fried Clams — Take a sufficient quantity of shelled clams, 
and after drying, fry in a very little lard or butter, turning them over 
once or twice; just before they are done prick them with a fork to let 
out the juice, and add a little vinegar; when it is hot take up and serve. 

300. Fried Clams — Breaded — Take from the shell some good 
sized soft-shell clams; beat an tgg well, and add to it two tablespoons 
water, dry the clams well in a cloth, and dip them first in egg and then 



6 7 

in fine crackers or bread-crumbs, and fry in good sweet lard or butter. 
They should fry considerably longer than oysters prepared in a similar 
manner. 

301. Clam Pie — Of either hard or soft shell clam meats, take 
about three pints — if large, chop them up a little — having saved all their 
juice when opening, boil them in it; if not sufficient, add a little water; 
have at hand four medium sized boiled potatoes cut into small squares; 
make a nice pie crust, with which line a good sized earthen baking dish 
for half way down the sides. Place a small teacup in the middle of 
the dish, inverted to hold up the crust, and place around it first a layer 
of clams, and then a few squares of potato; season with bits of butter 
and a little salt or pepper, and dredge over with flour; repeat this until 
the dish is full, adding clam juice and a little water if necessary. 

302. Clam Fritters — Put into an earthen dish three spoons 
of flour, a teaspoon of yeast powder, and two eggs; mix this with a little 
clam juice; mince a pint of clams and mix with this batter; put two or 
three spoons lard into a shallow frying-pan, and when hot, put in the clam 
batter by spoonfuls to fry; turn them over after three or four minutes, 
let them fry a moment longer, then take them out, and after draining 
them on a cloth, serve. Clam fritters should not be cooked in large 
masses.- — Etnil Combe y Chef de Cuisine 9 Hotel Wellington. 

303. Clam Fritters — Take raw clams fresh from the shells and 
chopped fine; make a batter of the juice, an equal quantity of sweet 
milk and four eggs to each pint of the liquid, with sufficient flour to 
stiffen; fry in boiling lard the same as other fritters. 

LOBSTERS, CRABS, ETC. 

Note — Lobsters are seasonable all the year, but best from March 
to October. The flesh of the male lobster is the firmer, but the 
female is valued for its coral, lying inside the tail, which is used in sev- 
eral sauces and decorations on account of its beautiful color. Con- 
trary to much prejudice on the subject, all parts of the lobster are 
wholesome except the stomach lying just back of the head and a black 
or bluish vein running from near the head to the extremity of the tail. 
These should be removed after it is boiled. The liver, frequently 
rejected from its. being a greenish color when boiled, is, in fact, the 
most delicate part of the fish. Always buy a lively lobster-— never a 
dead one — and boil it yourself, as they should be alive when put into 
the pot. Dead lobsters will be watery, soft, and not full when boiled. 
The smaller lobsters are the best — those weighing from one and a half 
to three pounds — and should be weighty as compared to bulk. . Should 
ready-boiled lobsters be purchased, test them by gently drawing back 
the tail part way, which should rebound with a spring if it was not dead 
before boiling, in which case it should be rejected. 

304. Boiled Lobster — The lobster suffers less upon being 
killed in cold water made hot, as it is dead as soon as it becomes warm, 
and the flesh will also be firmer. It requires from fifteen to thirty 



68 

minutes to boil, according to size; qui/e large ones perhaps an hour. 
When boiled take it from the kettle, split it in hal-f from the head to 
tail, remove the stomach and vein, crack the claws so that the meat may 
be removed readily, and serve on a platter. Lettuce and other con- 
comitants of a salad should also be placed on the table or platter. — 
Peirre Blot, Prof, of Gastronomy, Etc. 

305. Steamed Lobsters — Many persons think the lobster 
quite superior when steamed instead of boiled — the meat is dryer and 
finer. Place them in a steamer or fish-kettle, the boiling water not 
touching the fish, and steam twenty to thirty minutes, or until it turns 
a bright red color; take out, and dress in any manner as though boiled. 

306. Lobster Croquettes — Take any of the lobster remain- 
ing from table, and pound it until the dark, light meat and coral are 
well mixed; put with it not quite as much fine bread-crumbs; season 
with pepper, salt and a very little cayenne pepper; add a little melted 
butter, about two tablespoons, if the bread is rather dry; form into egg- 
shaped or round balls; roll them in egg 9 then in fine crumbs, and fry in 
boiling lard. 

307. Deviled Lobsters — Take out all the meat from a boiled 
lobster, reserving the coral; season highly with mustard, cayenne, salt 
and some kind of table sauce; stew until well mixed, and put it in a 
covered saucepan, with just enough hot water to keep from burning; 
rub the coral smooth until it is thin enough to pour easily, then stir it 
into the saucepan. The dressing should be prepared before the meat 
is put on the fire, and which ought to boil but once before the coral is 
put in, stir in a heaping tablespoon of butter, and when it boils again 
it is done and should be taken up at once, as too much cooking toughens 
the meat. 

308. Scalloped Lobster — Butter a deep dish, and cover the 
bottom with fine bread-crumbs; put on this a layer of chopped lobster, 
with pepper and salt; so on alternately until the dish is filled, having 
crumbs on top. Put on bits of butter, moisten with milk, and bake 
about twenty minutes. 

309. Crabs — Are boiled like lobsters, and may be served the same 
as lobsters in a salad. When well washed and cleaned put them in a 
sauce-pan, with slices of onion, carrots, parsley, chives if you have them, 
thyme, bay leaves, salt and pepper corns; half cover them with white 
wine, add butter, and put over a good fire to boil till done. 

310. Soft Shell Crabs, Fried— Prepare the crabs by cutting 
off about one-fourth of an inch of the front part or mouth, and scraping 
out the fins from both sides under the shell, after which rinse well in 
cold water; fry in butter or good lard until a little crisp; when nearly 
cooked the shell turns red. Some prefer them breaded the same as 
oysters. Serve on toast with a butter sauce. Garnish with a few sprigs 
of parsley and some slices of onion, either or both. — Boston Oyster 
House> cor % Madison and Clark Sts. } Chicago. 



6 9 

311. Boiled Hard Shell Crabs, Long Island Style— Use a 

deep pot and fill it half full of seaweed or twigs; put in enough sea 
water or salted water to cover the seagrass or twigs and bring it to a 
boil ; then fill the pot with the crabs, which have been previously 
pricked with a fork to let the water out, cover, and keep the water 
boiling until the crabs are of the proper redness. This gives you your 
crabs free from water. 

312. Deviled Crabs — Prepare same as deviled lobster, sub- 
stituting for the coral and vinegar some fine cracker, first moistened 
with a tablespoon of cream. It may be served in the back shell of the 
crab. Serve with cream, crackers, and put a sprig of parsley on each 
shell, ranging them on a large platter. 

313. Shrimps— Boil and shell them; serve hot with tomato, 
Chili or any other desired sauce or catsup. — Boston Oyster House, cor, 
Madison and Clark Sts., Chicago. 

314. Terrapin in Chafing Dish, Maryland Style— First 

cut their heads off, then place them in a pot of boiling water; let them 
boil until the shell begins to peel; then take off the shell (which will 
come off very easily if boiled enough), remove the gall, sand bag and 
entrails; the balance is good; place in a chafing dish with spirit lamp 
under it (on your dinner table) ; season with red pepper, salt, and but- 
ter, one-fourth to one-half pound; add a glass of Madeira, let simmer 
for half an hour, but it must be stirred all the time. — By an Old Member 
of the Maryla?id Club. 

FROGS. 

Note — The French were the first among European nations to use 
frogs as food. Frog eating has become quite general in America, and 
they are now ranked as delicacies. Only the hind legs and quarters are 
used. 

315. Frogs, Fried — The most popular way of cooking is fry- 
ing, either plain, breaded or with an tgg batter, the same as oysters, 
but longer, as they should never be underdone. They may be cooked 
in other ways as well. 

316. Frogs, Stewed — Skin, boil five minutes, and throw in 
cold water to cool, and drain. Put in a stew-pan (for two dozen frogs) 
two ounces of butter; when melted lay in the frogs and fry about two 
minutes, tossing them in the pan occasionally. Put over them a tea- 
spoon flour by sprinkling, and stir; add two sprigs parsley, one of 
thyme, a bay-leaf, ten cloves, a clove of garlic, salt, white pepper and 
half a pint of white wine; boil gently until done, and remove the legs; 
reduce the sauce by boiling, strain, and mix in the yelks of two eggs; 
pour over the legs and serve. 



H.M. WILMARTH. Established 1859. T. W. WILMARTH. 

H. M. WILMARTH & BRO. 



Wholesale and Retail Dealers in 



Artistic Gas Fixtures 

225 and 227 State Street, 

CHICAGO. 

Western Depot for MITCHELL VANCE & CO., Manufacturers. 
Gas. Pitting: in all its Branches. 



In addition to GAS FIXTURES we keep an assortment 
of the best Lamps for burning Oil. We have 

The Cleveland Student Lamp, 

The Manhattan Mammoth Student Lamp, 

The best Library and Hall Lamps, 

We keep the best BURNER ever invented for burning* Oil, viz. 

THE IMPERIAL BURNER 

GIVING A LIGHT EQUAL TO 40 CANDLES. 

We keep Rich Table Lamps made of Hammered Metal and 
other rare Materials, We also keep 

Brass Fenders, Fire Sets, Andirons, Gas Logs and Sconces. 

Send your orders for Gas Fitting to us and the work will be done promptly 
and at Low Prices and satisfaction guaranteed. We are the Agents for the 
celebrated Gas Stove, manufactured by the American Meter Co. If you have 
not tried Coon Cooking, call and examine; we put them up on approval. We 
aim to please our customers both in quality of work done or goods furnished, 
and in the prices charged. 









VEGETABLES. 



Note. — The fresher all green vegetables are, the more wholesome; 
when they are so they break or snap crisply, but should they bend 
without breaking, or have a wilted appearance, they are stale. Most 
vegetables, if wilted, but not too badly, may be considerably restored 
by sprinkling with cold water and placing them in a cool, dark place. 
After being thoroughly washed nearly all vegetables should be placed in 
cold water for some considerable time before cooking. Soft water is 
much better to use for cooking vegetables, if pure and clean; but if 
hard water is used, have it freshly drawn, and put in a little soda to 
soften. Nearly all vegetables should be thoroughly cooked, and are 
spoiled if either over or underdone; those young and tender require 
less time than those more matured. All green vegetables, with some 
exceptions, should be cooked in plenty of salted water, putting them in 
at its first boil, as the evaporation tends to harden it; the quantity of 
salt to use is a heaping tablespoon to each gallon of water. All vegeta- 
bles are done as soon as tender, and should then be immediately taken 
up and drained on a colander. Onions should be soaked in salted warm 
water previous to cooking, to partly remove any strong odor they may 
possess. Peas, string beans, and green corn should not be prepared for 
cooking until about ready to be used. Turnips, carrots, and onions 
should not be split, but sliced in rings across, as they thus cook sooner. 

A little sugar added to turnips, beets, peas, corn, squash and 
pumpkin will improve them, particularly if poor. A very small bit of 
red pepper put in the water in which either meat or vegetables are boiled 
will, to some extent, deodorize the steam, and save the disagreeable 
odor arising from greens, cabbage, onions, green beans, mutton, corned 
beef, hams, etc., or a small piece of charcoal will effect the same object. 
When vegetables are to be served with salted meats, the meat should 
be cooked first, the liquor saved, and the vegetables boiled in it. Nearly 
all' vegetables are injured by being boiled with fresh meat, and they 
also impart a bad flavor to the meat. 

If home-grown, gather spinach, string beans, peas, asparagus, etc., 
early in the morning, when the dew is on, and put into cold water, 
until ready to be prepared for cooking — some add a little salt to the 
water — but if quite fresh, only let them remain in ten to fifteen minutes, 
and then drain. If purchased at market, and of doubtful freshness, let 
them lie longer in the salted water. * 

For general directions concerning potatoes, tomatoes, etc., see 
under each respective head. For celery, chiccory, cress, horseradish, 
lettuce, parsley, radishes, sorrel, for relishes or garnishes, see Salads 
and Dressings, page 85. 

317. Asparagus — Note — Gather with the morning dew upon ft; 
do not cut it off, but snap it, avoiding the hard or woody part of the 
stalk; tie in bunches, eight to twelve stalks to the bunch, according to 



72 

size; when purchased the bunches come in much larger sizes, and should 
be divided. If to be kept for some time before using (never more than 
a day), place the bunch upright in about half an inch of cold water, 
and keep cool. The larger stalks, or first cut, is prepared vinegrette, 
with white sauce, or fried; the small ones, or second cut, like green 
peas, and is better if taken from the water when still firm; if boiled 
soft it loses its flavor. 

318. Asparagus — Wash clean, break off the white part, and 
put the green part into boiling water, slightly salted; boil five minutes, 
and pour off the water; add more, boiling hot, and boil ten to fifteen 
minutes; then put in a lump of butter, salt and pepper (some stir in a 
thickening made of one teaspoon flour mixed with cold water) ; toast 
three thin slices bread, spread them with butter, put in a dish and turn 
the asparagus over it. The last water must be boiled down until just 
enough for the gravy. 

319. Asparagus — Make a gravy similar to the above, using the 
water in which the asparagus has been boiled; cut the asparagus into 
small bits, rejecting the white ends, and put it in a hot dish; turn the 
gravy over it and serve. 

320. Beans — Note — All stringed beans, as well as all green shelled 
beans should be young and tender to be nice. There being many 
varieties, they are in season from the latter part of June to the middle 
or end of September. 

321. Butter or Wax Beans— Cut off the ends of the pods and 
carefully remove the strings from both sides; cut each bean lengthwise 
in two or three strips, and soak in cold water for half an hour; take a 
quart of dressed beans, considerably more than cover them with boiling 
water, and cook until quite tender, when they will sink to the bottom. 
They are better if boiled slowly for three hours. Drain well in the 
kettle and return to the fire; add a dressing of half a gill of cream, one 
and a-half ounces butter, one even teaspoon salt, and half a teaspoon 
of pepper. 

322. String Beans — Use two quarts of beans; string, snap and 
wash them; boil in water enough to more than float them for fifteen min- 
utes; draw off, and put on again in about two quarts of boiling water; 
boil an hour and a-half, or till tender, and just before taking up, season 
with salt and pepper, and stir in half a tablespoon butter rubbed with 
two tablespoons flour and half a pint of sweet cream. 

323. Green String Beans (Snap Beans), French Haricots, 
Kidney Beans, Etc., with the Pods — Remove the string or thread 
on both sides by partly breaking one end of the pod and pulling length- 
wise; repeat on opposite end; cut them in half -inch pieces, soak in cold 
water and put into boiling water with a little salt. Boil them until 
cooked tender; take them from the fire and drain. 

324. Green Shelled Beans — Boil for half an hour in water 
sufficient to cover, and add a dressing in the manner as for string beans, 
No. 322. 



73 

325. Dry Beans—Lima, White or Colored— Note— Dry 
beans should be soaked in water for some time, from five or six up to 
twenty-four hours, if a year or two old; if doubtful as to age, it will do 
no harm to soak them the longer time, and drain. If white beans are 
used, the smaller sized ones are the best. Their nutriment, although 
over-rated, is great, and for making a very palatable and cheap soup are 
very valuable. 

To Boil — Put the beans in a saucepan with cold water, and boil 
gently until tender; as the water evaporates, fill up with cold water. 
Never use any salt in boiling dry beans, as it prevents their cooking. 
When boiled tender, drain, and they are ready to be baked, or used as 
they are. 

With Pickled Pork or Bacon — Boil a quart of beans as directed 
above; cut in dice half a pound of salt pork or bacon — about medium 
fat and lean — and put it in a sauce-pan over the fire; when half fried, 
add the beans, mix and stir for a minute, and place in a warm oven 
for about twenty minutes, stirring occasionally; when done, sprinkle on 
the top some chopped parsley, pepper and salt to taste, if not already 
sufficiently salt. Ham or fresh pork may be used instead of salt pork 
or bacon, if preferred. 

326. Boston Baked Beans — Soak in fresh water over night 
a quart of small white beans; in the morning change the water and put 
them in a porcelain kettle, with water enough to cover, and parboil 
until the skins wrinkle; then pour off that water, mix the beans with 
salt, and put them in an earthen bean-pot (do not use a tin pan) ; take 
a piece of fat salt pork, score the top and place in the middle of the 
beans; in a cup mix a tablespoon molasses, a teaspoon dry mustard, a 
half teaspoon of baking soda, and pour over the beans; fill the pot with 
warm water, cover the top with the earthen lid, and bake in a slow oven 
all day, being careful not to let the water dry out, and thus dry the 
beans; keep replacing the water until about three o'clock, and then let 
them remain in the oven untouched until four. If desired for supper, 
place in the oven about half an hour before, but add no more water, and 
do not have the oven too hot, so as to parch or dry the beans, the object 
being to have them moist, but hot, when served. — Palmer House, 
Chicago. 

Either of the Brown Breads, Nos. 1 1, 12 or 95, should be served with 
the above. 

327. Baked Beans — (See Yankee Pork and Beans, No. 160). 

328. Beets — Cut off the leaves, and in washing use care not to 
break off the little fine roots, which would let out the juice, and the beets 
lose their deep red color. They should be boiled in plenty of water; for 
young ones two hours, if old four to five hours; test them with a fork 
to see when tender; take them out, drop into a pan of cold water, and 
slip off the skin with the hands; slice them crosswise, and place in a 
dish; add salt, pepper, butter, and if not very sweet a teaspoon of 
sugar; set them over hot water to heat and serve hot, with or without 



74 

vinegar. Should any remain put them m a stone jar whole, cover with 
vinegar, keep in a cool place, and use as wanted, slicing them then. A 
root or two of horseradish put into the jar will prevent a white scum 
arising on the vinegar. 

329. Beets — I^oast them in hot ashes or in the oven, turning 
them in the pan carefully with a knife, and when tender, peel, slice and 
dress with salt, pepper, butter and vinegar. 

330. Harvest Beets — Take young beets, and after boiling 
and skinning, mash them with boiled potatoes, and season with salt and 
a large lump of butter, but no milk; place them in a dish, make a hole 
in the center, in which put a large lump of butter; sprinkle over with 
pepper, and serve at once. Called harvest beets, as at that time beets 
are quite young and sweet, and this dish is generally served at that 
season. 

331. Beets Stewed — Clean and wash well, but do not skin 
them; put in an earthen vessel a layer of rye straw, moisten it slightly and 
place the beets on it ; cover and place the vessel in a slow oven for 
five or six hours, then cool, skin and cut them in thin slices; melt some 
butter in a stewpan, and sprinkle in a pinch of flour, a teaspoon of 
chopped parsley, salt and pepper and then the beets; simmer twenty 
minutes, add a few drops vinegar, and serve. 

333. Broccoli — Cook same as cauliflower (see No. 340). 

333. Cabbage — Note. — Solid, hard heads should always be 
selected; soft ones are nearly worthless for almost any culinary pur- 
pose; never buy a cabbage that has the least rot about it. A slaw cut- 
ter is a very useful implement in the preparation of all sliced or shreded 
cabbage, for cold or hot slaw, etc. 

To Boil. — Take off the outer leaves, wash thoroughly, cut off the 
stalk and stump, and put into boiling water, with a little salt and a 
small piece of charcoal, which will to some extent dispel the effluvia 
when boiling; boil slowly until tender; take up and drain in a colander. 

334. Heidelberg Cabbage — Divide in halves two small but 
solid heads of hard red cabbage; lay the split side down and slice 
downwards the whole cabbage in narrow strips or shreds; put into a 
sauce-pan a tablespoon of clean drippings or any clear fat, and when 
hot put in the cabbage, three tablespoons vinegar and one onion, in 
which three or four cloves have been buried; boil two hours and a 
half; if it becomes too dry and is in danger of burning add a very 
little water. 

335. South Carolina Cabbage — Slice or chop an ordinary 
sized cabbage quite fine, and cover it in a sauce-pan with boiling water; 
boil fifteen minutes; drain well, and add the following dressing: Half 
teacup white-wine vinegar, two-thirds cup of sugar, salt, pepper, half a 
teaspoon mustard, and two teaspoons salad oil; boil, and when hot, add a 
cup of cream and one egg stirred together; mix quickly and thoroughly 
with the cabbage; cook a moment, and serve hot. 



n 

336. Stuffed Cabbage — Cut out the heart of a large fresh 
cabbage by gently spreading back the leaves, to do which without 
breaking pour over it boiling water; fill the vacancy with finely chopped 
and cooked veal or chicken and rolled into balls with the yelk of egg. 
Tie it firmly together with twine, or tie it in a cloth and boil in a 
covered kettle two hours. This is a very fine dish and quite economical 
in using up cold meats. 

337. Carrots, to Clean and Prepare — Trim off all the small 
roots; wash and scrape them gently, the skin only; wash well; drain 
and cut them in slices a quarter inch in thickness, either across or 
lengthwise. 

338* Carrots, to Boil — When prepared as above, put them in 
a sauce-pan with a little salt and enough water to more than cover; 
boil gently until tender, and drain; the time will depend "upon how 
young and tender they are. 

339. Carrots Stewed — Divide them lengthwise, and boil till 
tender — from one to two hours; have ready a sauce-pan with one or 
two tablespoons butter and a small cup of cream ; slice the boiled 
carrots very thin, and put in the sauce-pan; add salt, pepper, and let 
them stew ten or fifteen minutes, stirring gently once or twice, and serve 
in a vegetable dish. Carrots may also be boiled with meat, like turnips 
or parsnips, but take longer to cook. 

340. Cauliflower or Broccoli, to Boil — Choose those very 
white, close and compact; trim off all decayed leaves, and cut the stock 
off close to the head; open the flower a little in places and wash; place 
them, head down, in salt and water for two hours previous to dressing, 
which will draw out all insects; put into boiling water, with a heaping 
tablespoon of salt to each two quarts of water; boil briskly fifteen to 
twenty minutes over a good fire, keeping the sauce-pan uncovered, 
skimming the water several times. When boiled tender, take up, drain, 
and if large heads, place upright in a dish, and serve with plain melted 
butter, pouring a little on the flower; or a white sauce or drawn butter 
may be used with it. 

341. Green Corn — Note — There are many varieties of corn 
cooked in the ear, of which those known as " evergreen " and sweet 
corn are perhaps the best; it should be freshly plucked, and not taken 
out of the husk until just before being required to cook. It is best 
when eaten from the cob, with butter and salt. 

342. Boiled Corn — After well cleaning the ears, removing all 
silk, and cutting off the end of the cob close to the corn, put them in 
salted boiling water; boil for an hour; or it may be boiled in the husk; 
remove the husk, and serve quite hot. When thoroughly cooked is a 
very enjoyable dish. 

•343. Stewed Corn — Carefully cut the corn off the ear, so as 
not to cut into the cob, and to three pints corn add three tablespoons 
butter, pepper and salt, with enough water to just cover; place in a 
stewpan, cover, and cook slowly, from half to three quarters of an 
hour, often stirring it, and adding more water if necessary; a few 



7 6 

minutes before it is done, add half a cup of sweet cream, thickened 
with a teaspoon of flour. Some stew tomatoes separately, and mix with 
the.corn just before serving. 

344. Corn Oysters — To one quart grated green corn (that 
called evergreen is the best) add three eggs and three or four grated 
crackers; beat well, and season with pepper and salt; have ready in a 
skillet, butter and lard, or beef drippings, in equal proportions, quite 
hot, but not scorching; drop in little cakes about the size of an oyster, 
using a teaspoon for the purpose; when brown, turn, and fry on the 
other side, watching constantly to prevent burning. If the fat is just 
the right heat, the oysters will be light, and have much the flavor of 
fried oysters. Serve hot, and keep the dish well covered. By beating 
the whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and adding just before frying, they 
will be still better. 

345. Corn Fritters or Mock Oysters — Grate six ears of 
corn, and mix with one tablespoon flour, two eggs; salt and pepper to 
taste; drop spoonfuls in hot lard and fry like oysters. — Palmer House, 
Chicago. 

346. Cucumbers — Raw — Select those of medium size and very 
fresh, which have not lain in the sun after gathering, and put them 
in cold water half an hour ; an hour before they are required peel thin, 
and slice on a slaw cutter set close, or very thin with a knife, commencing 
at the thick or blow end, or they are likely to be bitter; let the slices 
drop into a pan of cold water, in which let them lie for ten minutes; 
pour off the water and replace once or twice; finally cover them with 
ice, and set away in the refrigerator until wanted to serve, when salt 
and pepper them and pour over good cider vinegar; some add salad 
oil also. 

From being an indigestible, strong and even dangerous edible, by 
this process they become wholesome and very relishable. Sliced onions 
are also served with them, but they should be mild, the Bermuda onion 
being the best. 

347. Cucumbers — Boiled and Fried — Peel them, split them 
lengthwise in four parts; take out the seeds, and cut into pieces about 
an inch long; put them in boiling water with a little salt, and boil until 
cooked done; put them on a towel to dry; put some butter in a frying- 
pan, and place it over a good fire; when hot put in it some chopped 
parsley, salt, pepper; two minutes after, put in the cucumbers, fry a few 
minutes, tossing them now and then and serve. 

348. Egg Plant — Note — The purple variety of an oval shape 
is the best. It should be firm, but not ripe. 

Peel and slice one or two of medium size; put in cold water a little 
salted; boil until tender; drain, mash fine, season with salt and pepper, 
and add a beaten egg and a tablespoon of flour. Fry in little cakes in 
butter, or butter and lard in equal parts. 

349. Egg Plant — Another Method — Cut in slices; lay in cold, 
well salted water for an hour or more; roll in egg and cracker crumbs, 



77 

and fry with a little butter. Parsnips and oyster plant may also be 
cooked in same manner, but the latter should be made into smaller 
cakes, to resemble oysters. 

350. Greens— The following plants and portions of young vege- 
tables make good greens: Young beets, beet tops, cowslips, chiccory, 
chevel, dandelion, dock, horseradish tops, young turnips and tops, young 
milk weed, and many others peculiar to different localities. The dande- 
lion and dock are especially fine, producing marked effects as blood 
purifiers and in clearing the complexion. 

They should always be cooked in salted water, to which should be 
added a little soda or a pinch of carbonate of ammonia, to preserve their 
green color. All greens should be very thoroughly washed in several 
waters, after removing the roots and any dried or dead stalks which 
may have been gathered. They should be either ^ cooked in soft water 
or water freshly drawn, and put in at its first boiling. 

The time required is indefinite, depending upon how young they 
maybe, or the variety used; are done always as soon as tender, and 
should then be taken up, and very thoroughly drained by placing in a 
colander, and squeezing with a wooden spoon. 

351. Mushrooms— Although the majority of mushrooms are 
edible as well as very delicious, they differ so little in appearance from 
those that are poisonous— being of the same family — that the safest 
plan is to purchase only those canned or bottled. They are largely 
imported from France and Germany, and this industry is attracting 
considerable attention in this country. There are two kinds used here, 
the small or button mushroom, varying in size from as large as the 
thumb joint to a little larger, and a much larger variety termed the 
"umbrella," from its shape. Those which grow spontaneously are in 
season in September and October. Those cultivated from mushroom 
spawn are grown in cellars, or very rich damp ground. 

The cooking of mushrooms may be readily summed up in the 
directions to cook the same as oysters, stewed, fried, broiled, or as a 
soup. They are made into various condiments, sauces and catsups, 
also dried and powdered, their flavor being added to meat gravies, 
game or soup. 

352. Okra— Grows in the shape of pods, and is of a gelatinous 
character, much used for soup, and is also pickled; it may be boiled as 
follows: Put the young and tender pods of long white okra in salted 
boiling water in granite, porcelain or a tin-lined sauce-pan— as contact 
with iron will discolor it; boil fifteen minutes; remove the stems, and 
serve with butter, pepper, salt and vinegar if preferred. 

353. Onions— There are many varieties, of which the Spanish, 
imported from Bermuda, are the mildest and best; a similar kind are 
grown to some extent in New Jersey. 

354. Boiled Onions— Wash and peel; boil ten minutes; pour 
off the water, and add more boiling hot; boil a second time, and drain; 
pour on more boiling water; add some salt, and boil an hour; then 
place in a colander, turn a saucer over them, and press firmly to drive 



78 

off all the water; put them in a dish; add butter and pepper, and serve. 
Old onions require about two hours to boil. 

355. Baked Onions — Use the large Spanish onion, as best for 
this purpose; wash them clean, but do not peel, and put into a sauce- 
pan, with slightly salted water; boil an hour, replacing the water with 
more boiling hot as it evaporates; turn off the water, and lay the onions 
on a cloth to dry them well; roll each one in a piece of buttered tissue 
paper, twisting it at the top to keep it on, and bake in a slow oven 
about an hour, or until tender all through; peel them; place in a deep 
dish, and brown slightly, basting well with butter, for fifteen minutes; 
season with salt and pepper, and pour some melted butter over them. 

356. Fried Onions — Slice, and boil ten minutes at a time in 
three waters (unless the Spanish onions are used); drain, and fry in 
butter or beef drippings, stirring often; season and serve hot. 

357. Onions with Beefsteak — See Beefsteak and Onions, No. 

102. 

358. Oyster Plant — Salsify or Vegetable Oysters — Wash 
thoroughly, scrape with a knife, cut across in rather thin slices, stew 
in water enough to cover them until tender, putting in a piece of salt 
codfish for seasoning, which remove before serving; thicken with flour 
and butter rubbed together; toast slices of bread, put in a dish and 
pour over; the codfish imparts an oyster flavor. Or, after stewing until 
tender in clear water only, mash, season with pepper and salt, and serve. 

359. Boiled Parsnips— Wash and scrape them, and remove 
any black specks or blemishes, and if quite large, quarter the thick part. 
Put them into boiling water, salted with one heaping tablespoon to half 
a gallon water; boil rapidly until tender, drain, and serve in a vegetable 
dish; is usually served with salt fish, boiled pork or beef. 

360. Stewed Parsnips — Wash, scrape and slice half an inch 
thick, put in a frying-pan with half pint hot water and a tablespoon 
butter, season, cover closely, and stew until the water is all cooked out, 
stirring to prevent burning; they thould be a cream, light brown. 

361. Fried Parsnips — Scrape and slice them lengthwise, about 
a quarter inch thick, and fry brown in a little butter or clear beef drip- 
pings; if previously boiled, they will fry sooner, or the remnants of 
those boiled for dinner may be used. 

362. Green Peas — Do not shell them much in advance of the 
time required to cook; canned peas should be rinsed before using; 
wash lightly two quarts shelled peas, and put into enough water to 
cover; boil twenty minutes, season, and add more hot water to prevent 
burning, if needed; also two tablespoons butter smoothly rubbed into 
two of flour; stir well and boil five minutes longer; should the pods be 
quite clean and fresh, boil tnem first in the water, remove and put in 
the peas. The Germans prepare a very palatable dish of sweet young 
pods alone, by simply stirring in a little butter with some savory herbs. 

363. Peas Stewed in Cream— Into a sauce-pan of boiling- 
water put two or three pints of young green peas, and when nearly done 
and tender, drain in a colander dry; then melt two ounces butter in a 



79 

clean stew-pan, thicken evenly with a little flour, and hold it over the 
fire, but do not let it brown; mix in a gill of cream, add half a teaspoon 
white sugar, bring to a boil, pour in the peas, and keep the pan movmg 
for two minutes, until well heated, and serve hot. 

364. Dry or Split Peas— May be prepared and served in the 
same manner in every particular as dry beans, with the exception that 
they require to be soaked a shorter time before cooking. 

Potatoes— Note— This fine esculent of the tuber specie is indige- 
nous to South America, where it still grows wild, but is known to and 
provides food to more than half the civilized globe. It was early 
domesticated in Virginia, about Sir Walter Raleigh's time from Chili or 
Peru and was first introduced into England, about 1586 ; but little 
attention was given to it, and it is now but little over one hundred years 
since its cultivation has been common even in Ireland, where it saves 
half its inhabitants from fasting all the year round. It is said to have 
been introduced there at the time of a famine, from which fact, as well 
as its forming the chief food of the people, it acquired the name of 
Irish potato, which is now commonly used in contra-distmction to the 
sweet or yam potato. . . 

The potato differs more than other vegetables in size, color or 
quality, from the manner of propagation or species ; it matures of all 
sizes, even in its kind, and distinct varieties are either white, pink, 
reddish, or blueish. Those properly cultivated in sandy soil will possess 
much starch, and, as a consequence, will cook dry and mealy. _ 

The o-reen appearance frequently noted upon the skin of either 
new or old potatoes is produced by what is known as solanine, arising 
from exposure to the,sun's rays, when the tuber is grown quite near the 
surface or partly out of the ground, and even by long exposure to the 
light after being gathered. This is developed both in the sprouts and 
skin, and is very unwholesome, if not poisonous, imparting an acrid 
taste to the mouth and dryness to the throat. It should be always cut 
off, or the potato entirely rejected. . 

To Select— As a general rule the smaller the eyes the better the 
potato Choose those of medium size, and smooth as possible. By 
cutting a slice off the larger end it may be discovered if sound ; if 
spotted or have a large hollow they are not, and therefore inferior. Ot 
the variety to select from it depends greatly on the season ; some sorts 
keep better than others; others decay and go out of market as the sea- 
son advances, while out of the hundreds of distinct species cultivated 
even in this country, each family will have its favorite. It is a fact, 
however, that those of forty years ago are scarcely to be found now 
while those that supplanted them are again superseded by later and 
more improved productions yearly. Potatoes should be kept in a dark 

but cool and dry cellar, to prevent vegetating. 

To Prepare— Old. potatoes should be peeled before boiling or stew- 
ing, and immediately dropped into cold water, to remain until required, 
in order to save them clear in color, as exposure to the air darkens 
• them ; wipe each one dry before cooking ; for the same reason, when 
sliced, let the slices drop into a pan of cold water to lie. 



8o 

Peel matured potatoes as thinly as possible, as the better part lies 
nearest the skin. Scrape new potatoes also thinly — when quite young 
and tender the skins may be very easily removed with a scrubbing- 
brush — then drop them in water to keep them white. 

To Cook — Steaming is now generally regarded as far preferable 
to boiling potatoes; first, from being more easily accomplished, and 
next, they cook a little sooner, and if watched, frequently tested, and 
taken up as soon as done, will preserve more of the starch, t. e. y be more 
mealy and dry. The great point in steaming, boiling or baking the 
potato is to know when done, and act accordingly, or they will be 
watery, or "soggy," as it is homely, but expressively, termed. . For this 
reason, too, it is essential that potatoes of a uniform size should be 
selected for each cooking, commencing with the largest, and continue 
each time until the supply is exhausted. Quite large potatoes, for 
steaming or boiling, should be cut into four parts, smaller ones into 
two, and remove the middle or core, if hollow or defective, also all 
worm holes or other blemishes. Very old potatoes may be vastly im- 
proved by soaking in water over night; if quite watery, a small piece of 
lime dropped into the water in which they are boiling will cause them 
to cook dryer than without. Some kinds of potatoes boil in pieces 
before fairly done; some salt added to the water will obviate this; they 
will, however (as well as any other vegetables when salted), be longer in 
cooking. Either Irish or sweet potatoes, when frozen, should not be 
thawed before putting in to bake. New potatoes are better baked than 
by any other process of cooking, and should be scrubbed and rinsed 
very clean, many persons regarding their delicate skins the more edible 
part. New potatoes should be boiled in two waters; put on two kettles 
of water at the same time, place them in a wire basket, which set into 
one, and, when about half done, change to the other; matured potatoes 
will be the better by this process. Medium sized new potatoes will 
cook — boiled or baked — in twenty to thirty minutes; matured or old 
ones in about double that time, and either, when peeled, some fifteen 
minutes sooner. Of the various ways in which potatoes may be cooked, 
or the numberless dishes of which they form the whole or in part, 
hundreds of pages could be written. 

365. Potatoes a la Parisienne — Wash and rub, with a coarse 
cloth or scrubbing-brush, new potatoes, drop into boiling water and boil 
briskly until done, and no more; press a potato against the side of the 
kettle with a fork; if done, it will yield to a gentle pressure; in a sauce- 
pan have ready some butter and cream, hot, but not boiling, a little 
green parsley, pepper and salt; drain the potatoes, add the mixture, put 
over hot water for a minute or two, and serve. 

366. Potatoes a la Francaise {French Fried) — Peel and 
slice the potatoes as nearly the same size as possible; in a frying-pan 
have some hot butter or drippings, in which fry the potatoes until 
nearly cooked both sides; take them out of the fat and make it quite 
boiling hot; throw in the potatoes again for a minute or two until suffi- 
ciently crisp and they are done; putting them in a second time to the fat 
causes the slices to swell or puff up, which produces a light and desirable 



8i 

appearance and are delicious ; after they are done place them in a 
cloth before the fire to drain out the grease; after sprinkling with salt, 
serve hot. 4 

367. Lyonnaise Potatoes — One quart cold boiled potatoes cut 
into dice, three tablespoons butter, one of chopped onions and one of 
chopped parsley, pepper and salt; season the potatoes with the salt and 
pepper, fry the onions in the butter, and w r hen they are yellow add the 
potatoes; stir with a fork, being careful not to break them; when hot 
add the parsley, and cook two minutes longer; serve at once on a hot 
dish. 

368. Potatoes— Kentucky Style — Slice potatoes thin on a 
slaw cutter placed over a pan of water, and .let stand half an hour, 
which hardens them; put them in a pudding-dish or dripping-pan, with 
salt, pepper and about half a pint of milk; bake for an hour, take out 
and add a lump of butter half the size of an egg cut in small bits and 
scattered over the top. The quantity of milk cannot be exactly given; 
enough to moisten the potatoes, with a little left as a gravy. 

369. Saratoga Chips — Thinly peel and slice on a slaw cutter 
over a pan of cold water four large potatoes, using new when in season; 
salt the water and let stand while breakfast is preparing; take handfuls 
of the potatoes at a time, drain and dry them on a napkin; separate the 
slices and drop a handful at a time in boiling lard, without contact with 
each other; stir with a fork until a light brown or crisp, as desired; skim 
out, drain well and serve in an open dish. Are very good cold as well. 

370. Tremont Potatoes — Take cold boiled potatoes of uni- 
form medium size and split lengthwise into quarters or sixths; fry like 
doughnuts in boiling lard until the outside is browned or crisped; skim 
out and drain; before serving, sprinkle a little salt over them. 

371. Ringed Potatoes — Peel some large sized potatoes, then 
cut them round and round as an apple is pared; fry in clean sweet lard 
like fritters until brown, drain on a sieve, sprinkle fine salt over them 
and serve. 

372. Fried Raw Potatoes. — Pare and slice thinly into cold 
water some medium-sized potatoes, drain in a colander and put into a 
frying-pan in which is two tablespoons melted butter or clarified drip- 
pings, or half of each; cover closely ten minutes, removing only to stir 
them from the bottom to keep from burning; cook another ten minutes, 
stirring until lightly browned. 

Sweet potatoes may be prepared in the same way. 

373. Boiled Fried Potatoes. — After boiling let them cool, 
or use cold boiled potatoes; slice evenly, but only medium thin, and 
cook same as preceding receipt. They will cook in about half the time 
of raw potatoes. 

374. Mashed Potatoes — Note — Simple as the operation 
would appear, some skill is required to mash potatoes properly, and for 

. this purpose the old wooden masher is preferable to the perforated iron 



82 

one more recently in vogue. When mashed they should be dipped out 
lightly into a hot covered dish and delicately shaped into a mealy heap, 
instead of being stirred, packed and patted into a rounded mass. 

Pare potatoes and boil; drain and mash in the kettle until devoid 
of lumps; add milk or cream, butter and salt; beat like cake with a 
large spoon; the longer the better; turn them into a covered dish, 
smooth over the top, place a lump of butter in the center; do not serve 
them too moist. 

Or, when mashed, add one or two eggs, well beaten; pepper and 
salt; put them in a baking dish, brush over the top with sweet milk, 
and place in a hot oven about twenty minutes. 

375* Potato Balls — Mash six boiled potatoes and add enough 
cream or milk to make them a little soft; half a cup of grated ham — the 
bits too dry for other purposes may be grated— a teaspoon chopped 
parsley, and half a teaspoon each of pepper and salt, less of the latter 
if the ham is rather salt; mix all well and stir in the yelks of two eggs; 
form into little balls and fry a light brown. Serve with a good brown 
gravy. 

376. Potato Snow — Take large and very white potatoes, free 
from spots or blemishes as possible, and boil them in their skins in salt 
and water until perfectly tender, but not overdone; drain and dry them 
thoroughly near the fire, and peel; put a hot dish before the fire, and 
rub the potatoes through a coarse sieve on to it; do not touch them 
afterwards or the flakes will fall; serve as hot as possible. Six potatoes is 
sufficient for three persons. 

377. Potatoes for Ea;ch Day of the Week— On Sunday, 
peel, steam and mash; add milk, butter and salt, and then steam and 
beat up like cake batter until nice and light; the longer the better. — 
Monday, baked potatoes in the skins; be sure to take up when done, or 
they will be wrinkled and watery; if not served immediately, do them 
up in a napkin and tie close to keep hot. — Tuesday, peel them and bake 
with roast beef, cooking them under the meat. — Wednesday, prepare in 
Kentucky style (see No. 368).— Thursday, peel, steam and serve whole. 
— Friday, peel, cut in thin slices lengthwise, sprinkle with pepper and 
salt, and fry on a griddle greased with butter or beef drippings, and 
turn like pancakes. — Saturday, potatoes boiled in their jackets. 

378. Sweet Potatoes — Note — There are doubts as to their 
origin, the evidence being in favor of both American and East India ma- 
ternity; was known to Europe very long before the Irish potato. A variety 
known at the South as yam potatoes is regarded as one of the best, and 
are there generally called yams only. It is but a few years since 
they have been cultivated north of Virginia, but they are now produced 
in Ohio, Illinois and some other Western States and in New Jersey. 
Those from the warmer climates are yellow in external appearance, 
while those of the North vary from a dirty to a pinkish red. The best 
are brought from Carolina, Virginia or Georgia, and the next from New 
Jersey. 



83 

To Cook — The cookery of the sweet potato, yam potato or 
yam, may be briefly summed up by directions to cook them in all 
ways and particulars as directed for the common or Irish potato. 
They require a longer time to cook, however. 

379. Sweet Potatoes — Dress them clean and bake in an oven 
an hour, or place in a steamer and steam from a half to three-quarters 
of an hour; or, when steamed and nearly, done, scrape and peel them, 
place in a pan and bake half an hour; or, cut them (steamed or boiled) 
in slices and fry in butter or lard; or, peel and slice when raw, and fry a 
layer at a time on a griddle or in a frying-pan, with a little melted lard, 
using care not to cook them too long, or they will become hard; or, 
drop in boiling lard in a frying-pan, turn them till a nice brown on both 
sides; or, halve or quarter them and bake in a pan with roast beef, 
basting them often with its drippings. 

380. Baked Sweet Potatoes — Wash, scrape and split them 
lengthwise; steam them half an hour, and then put them in a pan with 
lumps of butter, pepper and salt; sprinkle thickly with sugar, and bake 
a nice brown. Cook the Hubbard squash in the same manner, and 
with the addition of a little sugar they closely resemble this dish. 

381. Salsify — See Oyster Plant, No. 358. 

382. Summer Squash or Cymlings — By pressing the nail 
through the skin you can tell whether young, and consequently tender. 
If young, boil whole without peeling or removing the seeds; or cut 
across in thick slices; use as little water as possible (or steam them) 
for half to three-quarters of an hour; drain thoroughly; mash, and set 
back to dry out most of the remaining moisture for ten or fifteen 
minutes, stirring occasionally; then season with butter, salt, pepper and 
a little cream. If old ones are used, cut them up, take out the seeds, 
and season as above; they will require somewhat longer time to boil. 

383. Winter Squash or Pumpkin — Cut them up, take out 
the inside; pare the pieces, and stew in as little water as possible; cook 
an hour; mash them in the kettle, and if too moist or watery, let it stand 
on the fire a short time until dry, stirring to prevent burning; season 
with butter, cream, salt and pepper. If not very sweet, a little sugar 
will improve it. They may also be steamed, and served either in the 
shell or scraped out; put in a pan mashed, seasoned as above, and 
again made hot before serving. 

Hubbard squash may be baked in the same manner as sweet 
potatoes. See No. 380. 

384. Tomato — Note — This highly popular vegetable, like the 
potato, is a native of South America. But little over fifty years ago 
the tomato was not used in the Northern States, and seldom in the 
South, and when grown it was as a curiosity or garden ornament. 

The tomato is utilized in a great variety of ways, both when the 
fruit is green and ripe, being eaten raw, baked, boiled or stewed, while 
it forms an invaluable ingredient in soups, stews and sauces. It is 
made into condiments, as catsup or tomato butter, and pickled and 



84 

preserved in various ways. The art of canning has also made it avail- 
able all the year, in nearly as good a state essentially as the fresh fruit 
in season. It is thought to produce dietetic effects, and is doubtless 
one of the most healthful vegetables grown, either raw or cooked in 
any manner. In purchasing tomatoes, select those of medium size, 
solid and smooth skinned, and with the least warts or blemishes about 
the stem end. 

385. To serve fresh Tomatoes— Pour boiling water on to 
the tomatoes until they are covered; cover and let them stand until 
the skins begin to crack, when they may be easily peeled; put them on 
ice, and let them remain until perfectly cold; then slice and serve with 
dressing, or with powdered sugar, salt, pepper, and vinegar. Claret 
instead of vinegar is considered by many quite a fine dressing, but use 
no salt or pepper. Never serve tomatoes without peeling. 

386. Baked Tomatoes — Take eight or ten tomatoes, peel 
and slice rather thick, and put into a deep baking-dish; season liberally 
with salt, pepper, and two ounces butter; cover over with bread crumbs, 
and then pour over a little butter clarified by heating, and bake in a 
moderate oven a third to half an hour. Serve hot. 

387. Stewed Tomatoes — After scalding and peeling, cut 
them into a stewpan; season and let them simmer (not boil) for three- 
quarters of an hour. May be cooked with soft bread-crumbs or 
small squares of bread, using nearly as much bread or crumbs as 
tomato, adding it after they are nearly done. 

388. Stuffed and Baked Tomatoes — From the blossom end 
of a dozen tomatoes — smooth, ripe and solid — cut a thin slice, and with 
a small spoon scoop out the pulp without breaking the rind surrounding 
it; chop a small head of cabbage and a good-sized onion finely, and 
mix with them fine bread-crumbs and the pulp; season with pepper, 
salt, and sugar, and add a cup sweet cream; when all is well mixed, fill 
the tomato shells, replace the slices, and place the tomatoes in a buttered 
baking-dish, cut ends up, and put in the pan just enough water to keep 
from burning; drop a small lump of butter on each tomato, and bake 
half an hour or so, till well done; place another bit of butter on each, 
and serve in same dish. 

389. Turnips — Wash, peel, cut in thin slices across the grain, 
and place in a kettle with as little water as possible; boil until tender 
and you can easily pierce them with a fork; drain well, season with 
salt, pepper and butter; mash fine and place on the stove, frequently 
stirring until all water is dried out; do not boil too long, as they are 
sweeter when quickly cooked. They may be steamed, instead of boiled, 
and in fact are finer in that way. They may also be baked. 

*^ 390. Dried Turnips — Pare, slice and cut them in dice an inch 
square, boil till nearly done in as little water as possible, and to one 
quart turnip add a tablespoon of sugar, and salt to taste; when boiled 
as dry as possible without burning, add two or three spoons of cream, a 
beaten egg t and serve. Slices of turnip or parsnip left from a boiled 
dinner are nice browned in a little butter the next day. 



Schenck's Adjustable 




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Sold by all Ilardware and Stove Dealers. 
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Manufacturers and Dealers in 



TEAS, COFFEES, SPICES 

BAKING POWDER, EXTRACTS, ETC., 

No. 61 South Market Street, CHICAGO. 

PRICE LIST FORWARDED ON APPLICATION. 

We make a specialty in putting up our National Coffee in one pound 
package, far superior to any that is put up. 

ASK YOUR GROCER FOR IX. 



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OF 



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Bottling Department : Telephone 4383. 



J. S. PIERCE, General Agent. 



EGGS AND MACARONI. 



Eggs — Note — The nutritive qualities of eggs are much greater than 
that of meat; those of different birds vary, however, in this respect. Those 
of the domestic hen are most esteemed and used; those of the turkey 
are nearly as mild as those of the hen, and that of the goose is larger, but 
about as preferable for most culinary purposes. Duck eggs have a richer 
flavor, but not so desirable to be eaten alone, although preferred by some, 
as either of the above. They are, however, as good for all purposes of 
cookery, and for puddings or custards are superior to any; when boiled 
they require less time than for those of the hen. The eggs of nearly 
all game birds are edible, and partake somewhat of the bird, and are 
generally colored or mottled. Those of the sea-fowl have a strong, 
fishy flavor and are little esteemed, while those of the plover, thrush, 
pheasant, etc., are highly so. The eggs of the turtle, consisting of yelk 
only, without shell, are very numerous, and are quite delicious. 

The delicate nature of the egg render them acceptable to the weak 
stomachs of invalids, and they are quite nourishing when admissible, 
but will not agree with all. The yelk alone is the better for invalids, 
and will be frequently relished when the wh ; te would be rejected. 
Poaching is the lightest way of cooking eggs, and is simply a raw egg 
broken for a minute into hot water, being careful not to break the yelk. 
Eggs are also used in nutritive beverages, beaten up raw; the yelks 
alone are often used for this purpose. 

To Select — Eggs are more wholesome soon after being laid, and the 
sooner they are used the better. There is probably nothing more 
vexatious to the housekeeper than for eggs to turn out addled in 
the act of using, for which reason care should be used in their selec- 
tion. Do not rely upon the specious placard or assertion of tradesmen 
that their eggs are " strictly fresh" but examine each one yourself, and 
the result will repay the trouble. There are several methods to ascer- 
tain their state. First place the large end against the tongue; if slightly 
warm it is sound; or look through it before the sun or a light in a dark- 
ened room; if it looks clear and the yelk can be readily seen it is good, 
but if a dark spot appears it is the contrary. This last method is 
termed "candleing" by dealers; or they may be tested by placing 
in water sufficient to cover; those that lie flat are sound, but those that 
stand on end are unsound. When an egg emits a sound when shaken 
it is utterly decayed, and, of course, should be rejected. Eggs that are 
purchased and cannot be entirely relied upon should be broken separately 
into a cup; the stale egg will not then waste others. Eggs vary so much 
in size that they properly should be sold by weight; the average of full- 
sized, plump hen's eggs should be 22^ ounces per dozen, and those of 
the larger variety of hen's 24 ounces. 

To Keep -Eggs — Any method which will effectually exclude the 
air from the inside of the shell will preserve eggs for a certain 



88 

time, and the following are among the best, some of the results of long 
experience by egg packers or dealers. Eggs for packing should not be 
more than one day laid, and packed in fine, clear weather, the best sea- 
son being from April to September. 

An old-time way of packing was to immerse them in lime water 
and set them away in a cool cellar; this, although usually successful for 
some weeks, often destroyed the eggs by keeping them in it too long, 
or the preservative was apt to be made too strong, and the shells were 
soon eaten; it also to some extent discolored the shell. A better manner 
and quite simple is to pack them in salt in a stone jar; a layer of salt 
two inches thick first, and alternate layers of eggs and salt to fill the jar, 
the eggs standing on the larger end, a thick layer of salt to cover the top; 
put on the stone cover and set in a cool, but not in a place where they 
may freeze in winter. Or put the eggs into a cabbage net or wire basket, 
twenty at a time, and hold them in boiling water for twenty seconds; 
no longer; repeat until all are boiled, and pack away in sawdust; they will 
keep for two or three months quite good enough for any culinary pur- 
poses. Or dissolve gum arabic (a cheap quality will do) to consistency 
of thin mucilage, and apply to each egg with a brush; pack them in 
powdered charcoal and place in a cool, dark place; wash when required 
for use. 

391. Boiled Eggs— There is a very general mistake about 
boiling eggs. To be healthful and most digestible, the eggs should be 
cooked evenly, the white and yelk alike; in the rapid boiling by the 
usual rule of three to four minutes for soft, or five minutes for medium, 
the white becomes toughened before the yelk is scarcely cooked. To 
remedy this and render them not only more palatable and nutritious, 
and less indigestible, boil them in a vessel having a tight fitting cover 
(a common tin pail will answer admirably), put in the eggs and pour 
boiling water upon them, about two quarts of water to a dozen eggs; 
cover tight and set off the stove; in about seven minutes remove the 
cover, turn the eggs, replace the cover; in six or seven miruites more 
they will be done, if but two or three eggs; if more, in about ten min- 
utes. Formerly, an egg boiler was a regular appurtenance of the break- 
fast table — an oval-shaped can six inches high, with capacity for a dozen 
eggs, which were placed on a movable rack like a castor, having large 
holes in which to set each egg; two lids hinged at either end closely 
covered it. Raw eggs were placed on the table with boiling water, and 
the duty of boiling them devolved upon the lady or daughter of the 
house. This is the nearest approach to the production of properly 
boiled eggs, as above given, and although long gone into disuse, it is 
one of the things to be regretted. It is, however, still in vogue in Eng- 
land — where it originated — in old families. By the ordinary methods, 
eggs boil soft in three minutes, medium in four, hard in five to six, and 
very hard, for garnishes or sandwiches, in ten to fifteen, provided the 
water is kept boiling from the time they are put in. They are less 
liable to crack when put in water not quite at the boiling point. Also 
place them in water carefully, one at a time, with a large spoon. Very 
fresh eggs require a little longer to cook, in any manner, than older ones. 



8 9 

392. Omelets— The variety of omelets made, especially by the 
French, who originated them, is very numerous. The filling, whatever it 
may be, is put in when it is folded or turned, and the manner of making 
a plain omelefwill serve as to the material process for all. Among the 
fillings used are fine herbs {Omelette aux Fine Herbs), selecting any 
favored; any kind of preserves, jelly or jam [Omelette aux Comfiture), 
chopped boiled ham or bacon, cold veal minced; sweetened or flavored 
with vanilla, lemon extract or the yellow, not the inner rind {Omelette 
Souffle), minced onion, shallot or grated cheese; oysters are also used, 
by first scalding them in their liquor, removing the beards, and cut into 
small pieces. With the exception of the Souffle they are all made 
alike. 

393. Plain Omelet — In compounding the omelet it is optional 
whether to beat the whole egg or to beat the whites and yelks separately, 
or to add flour and milk or milk alone; but if desired soft, milk should 
be used; when separated do not beat the yelk too much or they will be 
too thin; beat the white to a stiff froth and add lastly; melt about one 
ounce of butter for four or five eggs in a thin long-handled frying-pan 
very hot, next to burning; pour in the egg, which, if the pan is properly 
heated, will at once bubble up; break the bubbles, shake the pan con- 
tinually, and slip a knife under frequently to prevent burning; and 
when the bottom is hard enough to hold together and the top partly 
cooked loosen up one side and turn it over the other, tipping up the pan 
at the same time on the side from which it is turned; the time to add 
any filling mentioned above is just before it is turned; place it on the 
egg in the cavity of the tipped pan and fold the other side over it; loosen 
the omelet free from the pan, and if desired browned on both sides, 
skillfully flap it over, let it brown a moment and slip it off the pan to a 
hot platter. 

394. Plain Omelet — Having prepared the eggs as desired in 
quantity and ingredients, of egg, milk or flour, put about two ounces of 
butter in the pan (sufficient for eight eggs) and shake it about quickly 
to have it melt evenly, and cover the whole inside of the pan; as soon 
as very hot pour in the prepared egg, which stir and move about to 
cause it to cook as evenly as possible; should some part adhere to the 
pan raise it there with a knife, and adding a little butter, allow it to 
run under; it must be done quickly; when cooked soft or hard, to taste, 
run the knife under one-half the omelet nearest the handle, and turn that 
part over the other so as to nearly or quite double it; then, having an 
oval dish or small platter in the left hand, hold the pan with the right, 
the thumb lying along the handle instead of the fingers; incline the 
dish by raising the left side; place the front edge of the pan (opposite 
handle) on the edge of the dish, turn it upside down, and the omelet is 
dished, bottom or browned side up, and sightly. — Prof. Blot. 

Three eggs make a good sized omelet for one or two; for more 
persons it is better to make several small ones than one very large one; 
omelets are generally preferred soft inside; they should be made quick, 
in three to five minutes. 



go 

395. Omelet Souffle — Separate the yelks from the whites of 
six eggs; add to the former five ounces powdered sugar and a table- 
spoon of flour (rice flour is best), and flavor with vanilla, orange flower 
water or lemon rind; stir all well together; whip the whites of the eggs 
and mix them lightly with the batter; put in a sauce-pan three ounces 
of butter, melt it over a bright but gentle fire, and when the omelet is 
set turn the edges over to make it of oval shape, and turn it off as 
directed above on to a granite or porcelain pie dish previously well 
buttered; place it in the oven and bake twelve to fifteen minutes; 
sprinkle finely powdered sugar over it and serve immediately; is suffi- 
cient for three or four persons. 

396. Scrambled Eggs — Heat a cup of sweet milk, then rub 
a tablespoon of butter with a teaspoon of flour, and stir into the boiling 
milk. Into this put six well- beaten eggs and stir until thick. 

397. Baked Eggs — Break eight eggs into a well buttered dish, 
put in pepper and salt, bits of butter and three tablespoons cream; set 
it in the oven, bake twenty minutes and serve hot. 

MACARONI. 

398. Macaroni — Originally only of Italian production, is now 
extensively manufactured and used in this country. It is produced 
from slightly-moistened wheat flour, pressed into hollow tubes by great 
force. The harder the wheat from which the flour is made the better. 
The best is of a yellowish color, swells to about four times its original 
bulk, and does not break in cooking. 

399. Macaroni a la Riccadonna — Put a two-pound can of 
tomatoes in a sauce-pan and let simmer three to four hours, until they 
become quite thick and jelly-like; in the meantime take half a pound 
salt pork and one large onion, both cut into small pieces, and fry to a 
nice brown, taking care not to burn; pour them into the tomatoes, and 
let the whole simmer together; cover the macaroni with boiling water 
and boil for twenty-five minutes; drain, put on a platter, and pour over 
it the tomato sauce and put a generous sprinkling of grated cheese over 
the whole. 

400. Macaroni — Boil the macaroni in water until tender, 
which will be about twenty minutes; mix a dessertspoon of flour with a 
tablespoon butter; add half a cup milk, half teaspoon mustard, the 
same of salt and pepper, a quarter teaspoon cayenne, and four ounces 
grated cheese; stir all together and boil ten minutes; drain the water 
from the macaroni and pour over it the dressing; boil up once and 
serve hot. 



P. J. PROBECK, 

No. 62 h W. Clark St., 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



DEALER IN 



Crockery, Glass § Earthenware 

Lamps, Cutlery, Etc. 

FINE GOODS AT LOWEST PRICES 



Housekeepers' Orders promptly filled and Goods delivered 
at any part of the city- 

Fuller & Mills, 

(J. W. MILLS,) 

SUCCESSORS TO 

FIR 



(ESTABLISHED 1873.) 



Steam Carpet Cleaning Works 

70 & 72 W. Washington Street, 

One block from carriage entrance to Tunnel. 



THE BEST IS ALWAYS THE CHEAPEST! 



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-HjcSUPERIOEsM- 

SPOOL SILKS 

Sewing, Saddlers', Embroidery and Pure 
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We manufacture the ONLY PURE THREAD KNITTING SILKS in the 
market* all others being made from Spun Silk, which has very little strength 
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Our Goods are for sale by all prominent dealers in the 
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183, 185 & 187 FIFTH AVE., CHICAGO. 



SOUPS AND BROTHS. 

Soup Note — To produce the most nutritious and palatable soups 

is an art in which the French especially excel, forming the greater part 
of the food of the people. Italian cooks also produce very fine pottage 
or broths. 

401. Soup Stock— The foundation for all soups is lean meat- 
beef, veal or game — to which is added the broken bones of the same, 
of fowls, or small bits of ham bone saved from time to time, and boiled 
down in the stock kettle. When highly concentrated by boiling it will 
be a jelly-like compound, and the impurities having been precipitated 
it is left clear for ready use. For clear soups a white stock should be 
used the base being veal or fowls, instead of beef. Soups are also 
compounded of different fish, shell-fish, frogs, etc., or of vegetables, of 
which dry beans or peas are prominent and very nutritious. The 
proportion of beef to use in compounding stock is a pound of meat to a 
quart of water. In using fresh meats for soups, instead of stock, put 
the meat, properly cut up, into cold water, and let it stand to draw out 
the juice until it begins to color the water, and then put in to boil. 
The soup is done when the meat is destitute of juice. 

For either soup or stock the coarser parts of beef may be utilized, 
as the neck, flank or a soup bone (the shank of the fore-quarter or 
hock of the hind-quarter), the fat being mostly removed before boiling, 
and the balance can be entirely removed when cold. Mutton is too 
strong in flavor for good stock, and should not be used, while veal, 
although quite gelatinous, adds very little in nutriment.. Good soups 
are free from grease. 

The seasoning or flavors for soups are quite numerous, and vary 
according to taste, the plainer having simply pepper and salt; the richer 
have many flavors, blended in such a manner that no one predominates; 
this is really the great secret in soup making. The herbs most in use 
by skilled cooks are sage, mint, thyme, tarragon, basel, parsley, bay 
leaves, sweet marjoram, summer savor; onions and garlic are used in 
such small quantities that they add their flavor almost imperceptibly. 
Of spices, cloves, mace, celery-seed, white, red and black pepper, or 
red capsicum pods in very small quantities. Macaroni, vermicelli, rice, 
sago, pearled barley (in mutton broth), generally afford, when used, 
their names to the soup, while vegetable soups are also compounded of 
onions, carrots, turnips, parsnips, celery, etc., all chopped and blended 
together, the proportions of each being ad libitum. Noodles also form 
a common addition to several soups. The best sour> makers have a 
fine sense of taste, as the proportions of ingredients or flavors cannot 
be given by rule for the finer productions, but must be left to the judg- 
ment for delicacy in compounding. 

When soups form the principal dish they should be richer than 
when they precede meats or fowls in regular course. 



94 

Thickened soups should be seasoned higher than thin ones, and 
white or clear soups should be strained through a hair sieve or fine cloth. 

Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is burnt 
sugar; this it also known as caramel by French cooks. 

The fat removed from soup or when compounding stock may be 
clarified by melting and pouring it in a bowl containing a little hot 
water. When cold, all sediment or impurities may be removed from the 
bottom of the jelly (or cake, if boiled down), and the clear fat utilized 
in many processes of cookery. 

The more delicate flavors should ^e added to soups just before 
serving, or they will be destroyed by evaporation. Stock may'be varied 
in flavor by the addition of a little anchovy or Worcestershire sauce, 
sugar, calve's foot or ham as predominant; vegetables boiled with stock 
will prevent its keeping. Bone and gristle, possessing the gelatine 
matter necessary to solidify, are requisite for stock to jell. Meat alone 
will produce a broth only equal to beef tea. Roast beef bones, or those 
of steak after cooking, make good stock by the addition of some fresh 
meat to furnish more nutriment. 

402. English Game Soup (for 25 persons) — There are four 
stages in the production of this soup. 

1. Make a rich broth of the bones and frames of two dozen, or 
more, prairie chicken or other wild birds; then put into a sauce-pan four 
large or six small carrots, two onions, a little celery and leek, two table- 
spoons salt, ten each of cloves, allspice, and pepper-corns, and a teaspoon 
of mace; add the broth, diluted with water to four gallons, if not that 
quantity; set all on a hot fire, and when it boils, skim; let it boil down 
to about a gallon and a half; then strain through a medium sieve, rub- 
bing through it the vegetables and what meat comes off the bones; 
place it in another sauce-pan on the fire, and boil half an hour. 

2. Boil the breasts only of six or eight prairie chicken, ducks, 
or other game birds, of dark meat (or venison may be used), in a por- 
tion of the broth; take them out, cut into squares or dice, and set 
aside, but kept warm until the soup is nearly completed. 

3. Melt in a small stew-pan half a pound of butter, to which 
add two tablespoons browned flour and some of the broth; let it boil for 
fifteen minutes, and set aside to cool a little, when skim off all the fat; 
add a pint of sherry, half a pint of Madeira wine, and half a lemon, 
peeled and sliced; season with pepper and salt to taste; keep it hot. 

4. Prepare some force meat balls in the following quantity for 
the above amount of soup : Half a pound of calf's liver chopped fine, 
two ounces beef suet or marrow, six ounces stale bread, grated and 
soaked slightly in sweet milk, and season with a little salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, sage, and ground cloves, well mixed; sift all, and add one egg 
and the yelk of another, together with sufficient flour to form a very 
thick paste, which put in a small tube formed of white paper, and drop 
out into hot water, bits about as large as a small marble; let them stand 
for ten minutes, and strain off. Lastly, put into the hot soup the diced 
breasts of game and the balls, and serve all hot. — Constantine Wolf } 
Chef, Grand Pacific Hotel, Chicago. 



95 

403. Mock Turtle Soup — Scald a well-cleaned calf's head, 
remove the brain, tie it up in a cloth, and boil an hour, or until the 
meat will easily slip from the bone; take out, save the broth, cut it in 
small, square pieces, and throw them into cold w T ater; when cool, put it 
in a stew-pan, and cover with some of the broth; if not rich, add some 
stock jelly; let it boil until quite tender, and set aside. 

In another stew-pan melt some butter, and in it put a quarter of a 
pound of lean ham, cut small, with fine herbs to taste; also parsley, 
onion shallots, and mushrooms (if in season, or canned ones may be 
used) ; add about a pint of the broth, let it simmer for two hours, and 
then dredge in a small quantity of flour; now add the remainder of the 
broth and a quarter bottle of Madeira or sherry, let all stew quietly for 
ten minutes, and rub it through a medium sieve; add the calf's head, 
season with a very little cayenne pepper, and perhaps a little salt, the 
juice of one lemon, and, if desired, a quarter teaspoon pounded mace 
and a dessertspoon sugar. 

Having previously prepared force meat balls, No. 413, add them to 
the soup, and five minutes after serve hot. 

Three or four pig's feet, well cleaned, may be used with the calf's 
head, should the quantity of soup required be considerable; at the same 
time the other ingredients should be increased proportionately. 

404. Bean Soup — Very Cheap and Nutritious — Boil in two 
quarts water a small soup bone until the meat can be easily removed 
from the bone, which take out. Having soaked a cup of small white 
beans for two hours previously, put in and boil an hour and a-half, then 
add three potatoes, half a turnip, and a parsnip or carrot sliced fine or 
diced; boil half an hour more; just before serving, put in a handful of 
dry bread crumbs, and serve; if the flavor of onion or garlic is liked, 
add either, cut fine; of garlic the slightest quantity should only be used. 
A« good soup may be had, for Saturday dinner, when preparing for 
Yankee Pork and Beans, No. 160, or Boston Baked Beans, No. 326, 

.parboiling more beans than required to bake, and having taken out the 
necessary quantity, leave the remainder for the soup, and proceed as 
above. 

405. Tomato Soup — One quart canned tomatoes, two heaping 
tablespoons flour, one of butter, one teaspoon salt, one of sugar, one 
pint hot water; let the tomatoes and water come to a boil; rub the flour, 
butter and a tablespoon tomatoes together, and stir into the boiling mix- 
ture; add seasoning; boil all together fifteen minutes, rub through a sieve 
and serve with toasted bread; this bread should first be cut in thin 
slices, buttered and cut into little dice, placed in a pan buttered side up 
and browned in a quick oven. 

406.- Tomato Soup — Peel and cut fine six good sized tomatoes 
and boil in one quart of water; after boiling a few minutes put in half 
a teaspoon of soda, one pint of milk; add butter, salt and pepper to taste. 
— Palmer House, Chicago. 

407. Economical Soup, with Vegetables — Any piece of the 
coarse beef will do, or a soup bone is best; after washing well and cut- 
ting off most of the fat, put it in a kettle, with cold water enough for the 



9 6 

soup; let it boil slowly from three to six hours, according to the quan- 
tity and quality. An hour before required, cut a solid head of cabbage 
in quarters, sprinkle it with salt, and put in the kettle, and a quarter of 
an hour after add a few turnips, whole potatoes if small, or cut in two 
if large; the two last should have been previously peeled and put in 
cold water for half an hour before; when all are done, remove the veg- 
etables and meat to a steamer, to keep hot; should the quantity of soup 
be insufficient, add boiling water, and thicken with flour and water, 
after which boil well; season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve 
soup and vegetables separate; the meat will not be worth serving. 

408. Potato Soup— With a small piece of salt pork and a little 
celery boil six peeled potatoes; strain or rub through a colander and add 
to it milk, butter and salt till of the consistency of cream; add some 
finely chopped parsley and boil all five minutes; cut some stale bread 
into dice, fry brown in hot lard and throw into the soup just before 
serving. — Palmer House, Chicago. 

409. Hulled Corn Broth — Boil half a pint of white beans; 
when done pour off the water and add fresh; then put in lean salt pork 
or corned beef; when nearly done take hulled corn previously boiled 
separately and put into the broth; be sure to have plenty of water. 

410. Gumbo Soup — Fry out the fat of a slice of bacon or fat 
ham, drain it off, and in it fry the slices of a large onion brown; scald, 
peel, and cut up two^quarts fresh tomatoes, when in season (use canned 
tomatoes otherwise), and cut thin one quart okra; put them, together 
with a little chopped parsley, in a stew-kettle, with about three quarts 
water, and cook slowly two or three hours; season with salt and pepper 
before serving. 

411. Chicken Soup — Save the broth after boiling chickens, 
and to it add a dozen fresh tomatoes, or a quart of canned, and an 
onion thinly sliced ; boil twenty minutes, season with salt and pepper, 
add two beaten eggs, and serve. 

The same quantity of okra pods used for thickening instead of 
tomatoes, forms a chicken gumbo soup. 

412. Chicken Soup, with Rice — Put in a sauce-pan two old 
chickens, a small beef shank or other soup meat, one bunch soup 
greens, salt and a few whole peppers; cover with cold water and let it 
come to a slow boil; skim well when the chicken is done, strain the 
broth on one-half cup rice, let it cook slowly till done, then add the 
meat of one chicken cut fine and a little nutmeg, and serve. — Palmer 
House, Chicago. 

413. Force Meat Balls for Mock Turtle, Meat or Game 
Soups — In a wedge- wood mortar rub the yelks of five hard-boiled eggs, 
or in a bowl with the back of a spoon, adding gradually some calves 
brains; mix in two eggs beaten lightly to moisten, and season with a 
little butter and salt. Put in the soup five minutes before serving. 



WHOLESALE 



AND 



RETAIL. 




NEAR 



MONROE 

STREET. 



We carry the most varied and largest Retail Stock 
of Shelf Hardware in the City. 



PARTICULAR ATTENTION GIVEN TO 



BUILDERS' HARDWARE 

Embracing* all the Leading* Makes of Fine Bronze Trimmings. 



A Specialty made of Butchers 5 Tools W ; Machinery. 

ORR & LOCKETT. 



SON", 

No. 70 North Clark Street, 



DEALER IN 



Ranges, Stoves 9 Heaters 

Also full lines of Housekeeping Goods in Iron, Tin, Copper Ware, Cutlery and Shelf Hardware. 

Oil Stoves of best make, and a new Gasoline Stove, perfectly non-explosive. 

The "Perfection" Refrigerator and Ice Chest (all sizes). 

COPPER, TINWARE AND STOVE REPAIRING. 

JOHN ANDERSON'S 

DEPOT FOR 

Butter, Cheese^ Eggs 

OF RELIABLE QUALITY AND AT LOWEST PRICES. 

Also the best article of Butterine made— sold as such, 
superior to Cheap Butter. 

A CLEANLY AND LOW-PKIOED EESTAUEANT ADJOINING. 
Nos. 11 & 13 South Clark Street, near South Water/ 



JOHN H. GRANT, 

248 Wabash Ave., Chicago, 111., 

MANUFACTURER AND DKALER IN 

Sewing Machine Needles 

Parts and Attachments. 



New first-class Sewing Machines at $20 and upwards, and war- 
ranted for five years. 

Good Second-Hand Machines at $5 and upwards. 

Repairing all makes of Sewing Machines a specialty, and satis- 
faction guaranteed. 



i the noi nuiio BED 



Gives a perfect Woven Wire Mattress Bed, and 
encloses all of the bedding. 

There are no legs to turn down. 

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$25.00 AND UPWARD. 





Variety of Styles. 



ALSO MANUFACTURERS OF 

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AND 

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OF AIjIj KINDS 

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Union Wire Mattress Co. 

73 to 83 Erie St., Ghicago. 

I^ull Catalogue sent on application. 




SALADS AND DRESSINGS. 

Salads — Note — Salads vary so much in their ingredients and 
manner of mixing that they form not only a very agreeable relish, but 
frequently an entire meal. Great care should be taken that all vegeta- 
bles entering into their composition should be very fresh, all meats, fowl 
or fish well cooked (except when they are directed raw), and that the 
vinegar be of the best quality, pure cider vinegar being the best attain- 
able here, although the white wine or tarragon vinegars, when to be 
relied upon, are regarded as superior ; beware of acid vinegars so 
frequently palmed off as white wine vinegar. Prepare vegetables by 
freshening in cold water, and thoroughly cleansing. The oil used should 
be of the best and sweetest French or Italian olive oil, added a few drops 
at a time. For chicken salad thex)il skimmed from the water in which 
the chicken is boiled may be used instead of salad oil, and as old fowls 
are really better than young for salads, this will be considerable. When 
the yelks of hard boiled eggs are used they should be mashed or pounded 
in a mortar or rubbed fine in a bowl with the back of a spoon; cream or 
clarified melted butter are a good substitute for oil, and by many pre- 
ferred; it should be added last. To prepare lettuce, kale or cress, do not 
cut, but break off the heads or roots ; separate and wash each leaf sepa- 
rately, one by one, in water slightly warm or tepid, and immediately throw 
each one into cold water; the warmed water more effectually cleanses, 
while the cold water preserves the crispness. The meat from fowls or the 
bones of meat should also be picked off instead of cut. Vegetable salads 
should be stirred very little, that their freshness may be preserved. 

414. Celery — To crisp celery let it lie in ice water two hours 
before serving; to fringe the stalks stick several coarse needles into a 
cork and draw the stalk half way from the top through the needles 
several times, and lay in the refrigerator to curl and crisp. 

415. Chiccory or Endive — Extensively cultivated for the adul- 
teration of coffee; is also a fine relish, and has broad leaves; endive is 
of the same nature as chiccory, the leaves being curly. 

416. Cress or Water Cress — Is said to contain much sul- 
phur and to be anti-scorbutic; it is of a peppery flavor, and when 
gathered early in the morning is a good breakfast appetizer; served 
simply with salt; it is also compounded into a salad. 

417. Horse-Radish — Is an agreeable relish, and has a par- 
ticularly fresh taste in the spring; is scraped fine or grated, and set on 
the table in a small covered cup; much that is bottled and sold as 
horse-radish is adulterated with grated turnip. 

418. Lettuce — Wash each leaf separately, breaking them from 
the head; crisp in ice water and serve the leaves whole, to be prepared 
at table, providing hard boiled eggs cut in halves or slices, oil and other 
ingredients, to be mixed at table to individual taste. 



IOO 

419. Radishes — There are several varieties, all of which are 
served at table placed in a glass of water, having been previously 
cleaned by scraping. 

420. Parsley — Is much used for flavoring in cookery; it is also 
added to some salads; that used for garnishing is known as the curly- 
head kind; it is best green and fresh, but may be dried for winter use; 
hang it in a dry place, the roots upwards. 

421. Sorrel — Is found in a wild state in most localities; it 
possesses a certain amount of pure oxalic acid, which renders it a de- 
sirable concomitant for salad, and is regarded as very healthful. 

422. Pepper Grass — Is of nearly the same nature as cress, 
and used in same manner. 

423. Bean Salad — String young beans; break into half-inch 
pieces (or leave whole), wash and cook soft in salt water; drain well; 
add finely-chopped onions, pepper, salt and vinegar; when cool, add 
olive oil or melted butter. 

424. Cabbage Salad — Two quarts finely-chopped cabbage,, 
two level tablespoons salt, two of white sugar, one of black pepper, and 
a heaping one of ground mustard; rub yelks of four hard-boiled eggs 
until smooth; add half cup butter, slightly warmed ; mix thoroughly 
with the cabbage, and add tea cup good vinegar; serve with whites of 
the eggs sliced and placed on the salad. 

425. Plain Cold Slaw — Slice cabbage very fine; season with 
salt, pepper and a little sugar; pour over vinegar and mix thoroughly. 
It is nice served in the center of a platter with fried oysters around it. 

426. Chicken Salad — Chop fine one chicken cooked tender, 
one head cabbage, and five cold hard-boiled eggs; season with salt, 
pepper and mustard to taste; warm one pint vinegar; add half a tea- 
cup butter; stir until melted; pour hot over the mixture; stir thoroughly, 
and set away to cool. 

427. Chicken Salad — Two chickens; two bunches of celery 
to each chicken; half pint vinegar, two eggs, one tablespoon salad oil, 
one of liquid mustard, one of sugar, one of salt, 0-ne salt-spoon red 
pepper; beat the eggs and vinegar together until quite thick; then 
beat oil, mustard, and red pepper together, and stir into it; add celery 
just before using. The above is sufficient for ten persons. 

428. Chicken Salad — Boil one chicken tender, and chop fine; 
chop fine the whites of twelve hard-boiled eggs; add equal quantities 
of chopped celery and cabbage; mash the yelks fine; add two table- 
spoons butter, two of sugar, one teaspoon mustard; pepper and salt to 
taste; and lastly, one-half cup good cider vinegar; pour over the salad 
and mix thoroughly. 

429. Cucumber Salad — Peel and slice cucumbers; mix with 
salt, and let stand half an hour; mix two tablespoons sweet oil or ham 
gravy with as much vinegar and a teaspoon sugar; add the cucumbers, 
which should be drained a little; add a teaspoon pepper, and stir well. 



IOI 

430. Lettuce Salad — Take the yelks of three hard-boiled 
eggs, add salt and mustard to taste; mash fine; make a paste by adding, 
a dessertspoon of olive oil or melted butter; mix thoroughly, and then 
dilute by adding gradually a tea cup of vinegar, and pour over the 
lettuce; garnish by slicing another egg and laying on top of the lettuce. 

431* Lobster Salad — Put a large lobster over the fire in 
boiling water slightly salted; boil rapidly for about twenty minutes; 
when cold, crack the claws, after first disjointing, twist off the head 
(which is used in garnishing), split the body in two lengthwise, pick out 
the meat in bits not too fine, saving the coral separate; break up a large 
head of lettuce and place on a dish, over which lay the lobster, putting 
the coral around the outside; for dressing, take the yelks of three eggs, 
beat well, add four tablespoons salad oil, dropping it in very slowly, 
beating all the time; then add a little salt, cayenne pepper, half tea- 
spoon mixed mustard and two tablespoons vinegar; pour this over the 
lobster just before sending to table. 

432. Potato Salad, Hot — Pare six or eight large potatoes 
and boil till done, and slice thin while hot; peel and cut up a white 
onion into small bits and mix. with the potatoes; cut up some breakfast 
bacon into small bits, sufficient to fill a tea cup, and fry it a light brown; 
remove the meat, and into the grease stir three tablespoons vinegar, 
making a sour gravy, which with the bacon pour over the potato and 
onion; mix lightly. To be eaten when hot. 

433. Potato Salad, Cold — Chop cold boiled potatoes fine 
with enough raw onions to season nicely; make a dressing as for lettuce 
salad, and pour over it. 

434. Cream Dressing for Cold Slaw — Two tablespoons 
whipped sweet cream, two of sugar, and four of vinegar; beat well and 
pour over cabbage. 

435. Cabbage Salad Dressing — Boil one cup vinegar; melt 
a piece of butter the size of a walnut in it; beat together one egg and 
add one teaspoon each of mustard, sugar, salt, flour and half teaspoon 
pepper; pour the boiling vinegar on this mixture; stir it well; then put 
it back on the stove to boil again about a minute, and pour it over the 
cabbage. 

436. Mayonaise Dressing — Beat a raw egg (some use the 
yelks only) with a salt-spoon of salt (using a wooden spoon) until it is 
thoroughly smooth; add a teaspoon mixed mustard, made rather thicker 
than usual; when quite smooth, add by degrees (a few drops only at a 
time) a half pint of salad oil, taking care to blend each portion of it 
with the egg before adding more. This ought to be as smooth as 
honey, and thick enough so that a spoon will stand up in it; dilute with 
vinegar until it assumes the consistency of thick cream. A little es- 
sence of anchovy may be added if desired. This is the smoothest and 
richest of salad dressings. The oily flavor is entirely lost in combina- 
tion with the raw egg. This sauce keeps well, if bottled and corked 
with a glass stopper, and it may be made at any time in advance. In 
summer, place oil and eggs in a cold place half an hour before making. 



Moody & Waters, 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



HOME-MADE PIES 

Bakery: 216 & 218 W. Lake Street, 
Office and Salesroom : 39 & 41 N. Green Street, 

■•H3HIGAGO.-*- 



CAPACITY, 1,000 PIES PER HOUR. 



When buying Pies call for the " HOME-MADE." 

Our Pies are stamped " Home-Made " on the upper crust, and are always 
clean, well baked and manufactured of the best material that can be procured. 

They are delivered fresh daily in all parts of the city, and are for sale by all 
Groceries, Bakeries, Restaurants and Confectioners. 

N. B. — We use no cotton seed oil, glucose, corn starch or any article con- 
sidered injurious to health. 

EVERY AMERICAN CITIZEN 

SHOULD HAVE A COPY OF 

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CONTAINING 

Portraits and Biographies of 22 Leading Statesmen. 

A History of all National Political Conventions 

ever held in the United States. 

CABINETS OF ALL PRESIDENTS, 

Justices of Supreme Court. 

Losses of the Government by Embezzlement. 

Popular and Electoral Votes, etc., etc. 

128 pp. Price, Paper Covers, 25c; in Cloth, 50c. For sale by the Trade. 



PUBLISHERS, 

1JST7 X-ia, Sstlle Street, Oli-icstgr©. 



PUDDINGS AND PASTRY. 



Note — Upon the production of puddings and pastry, covering fruit 
pies, tarts and tartlets, the following general remarks are given. Most 
of those on cake making (page 95), will also apply here. 

PUDDINGS. 

Note — The freshness of all the ingredients for puddings is very 
essential, as one bad or poor article will taint the whole. When eggs 
are of doubtful freshness, break each one separately in a cup before 
mixing them ; a bad one will not then destroy those that preceded it. 
By beating the yelks and whites separately, the articles to which they 
are added will be the lighter. 

Raisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked 
over, in most cases stoned, and large ones chopped. Currants should 
be well washed, pressed in a cloth, and then thoroughly dried before 
the fire, and after which be well picked over. English currants are 
usually quite gritty ; they may be made to " plump " or fill out by 
pouring over them boiling water, and then dried. 

Batter pudding should be smoothly mixed, entirely free from 
lumps; to cause which, first mix the flour with a very small part of the 
milk, and add the remainder gradually; should it then prove lumpy, it 
may be rubbed through a hair sieve. 

Boiled puddings should be put on in boiling water, which must 
not be allowed to stop at least simmering; it should always be covered 
with the water, more being added if necessary. In dishing it, as soon 
as it comes out of the kettle dip it in a pan of cold water, and the cloth 
will not stick to it. It is better to have them suspended in the kettle; 
the cloth will not then adhere to the bottom. The pudding cloth or 
bag should be kept scrupulously clean, but washed without soap, or 
they will impart a very disagreeable flavor to the puddings. Before 
using, dip in hot water and dredge it slightly with flour. 

All puddings should be expeditiously served, as by standing they 
quickly become heavy, particularly batter puddings. When baked pud- 
dings are sufficiently solid to do so, turn them out of the baking-dish 
to a platter, bottom up, and powder with fine sugar. 

437. Apple Pudding — One quart milk, three eggs, three tea- 
spoons baking-powder, two spoonsful melted butter, flour to make a 
batter like griddle cakes; fill a pan half full of sliced apples, and pour 
the batter over them; bake two hours, and eat with a sweet sauce. 

438. Apple Roley Poley — Peel, core and slice sour apples; 
make a rich biscuit dough, or raised biscuit dough may be used if 
rolled thinner; roll half an inch thick, lay the slices on the paste, roll 
up, tuck in the ends, prick deeply with a fork, lay it in a steamer, and 
steam hard for an hour and three-quarters. Or, wrap it in a pudding- 



104 

cloth, tie the ends, baste up the sides, and boil continually an hour and 
a-half, perhaps more. Stoned cherries, dried fruits, or any kind of ber- 
ries, fresh or dried, may be used. 

439* Cabinet Pudding — Spread the inside of a plain mould 
with butter, and ornament the sides with dried cherries and candied 
citron; fill the mould with alternate layers of slices of sponge-cakes 
and ratafia of macaroni. Then fill up the mould with a lemon 
custard made with eight yelks of eggs, a pint of milk or cream, six 
ounces of sugar, a glass of brandy and the grated rind of a lemon. 
This custard must not be set, but merely mixed up. Steam the 
pudding in the usual way for about an hour and a-half, and when done 
dish it up, either with arrowroot sauce or a custard. — Sebastien Michel, 
Chef de Cuisine, Hotel Brunswick. 

440. Corn Starch Blanc Mange — Take one quart sweet 
milk, and put one pint upon the stove to heat; in the other pint mix 
four heaping tablespoons corn starch; when the milk is hot, pour in 
the cold milk with the corn starch thoroughly mixed in it, and stir all 
together until there are no lumps and it is thick; flavor with lemon; 
take from the stove, and add the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff 
froth. 

A Custard for the Above. — One pint milk boiled with a little salt in 
it; beat the yelks of three eggs with half a cup of sugar, and add to 
the boiling milk; stir well, but do not let it boil till the eggs are put in. 

441. English Plum Pudding — Beat six yelks and four whites 
of eggs very light, add to them a "tumbler of sweet milk, stir in grad- 
ually a quarter pound grated stale bread, a pound of flour, three- 
quarters of sugar, and a pound each of beef suet chopped fine, currants 
nicely washed and dried, and stoned raisins well floured; stir well and 
add two nutmegs, a tablespoon mace, one of cinnamon or cloves, a wine 
glass brandy, a teaspoonful salt, and, finally, another tumbler milk; boil 
in bowls or moulds five hours, and serve with a sauce made with drawn 
butter, wine, sugar and nutmeg. It will keep several months; when 
wanted, boil an hour before serving; a pound of citron or blanched sweet 
almonds will add to the richness of the pudding. 

442. Rice Pudding without Eggs — Two quarts milk, two- 
thirds of a cup of rice, same of sugar, and a small piece of butter and 
a little salt; stir it occasionally until boiling hot, and cook in a slow 
oven until of the consistency of cream. 

443. A Cheap but Delicious Rice Pudding— One cup rice, 
well washed, two quarts new milk, a pinch of salt, with sugar and 
flavoring to taste; grate nutmeg over it, and bake in a slow oven four 
or five hours. This will prove a most delicious pudding, to be eaten 
either hot or cold, and if baked slowly is better than with the use of 
eggs. 

444. Rice Meringue Pudding — Put a teacup of rice in a 
pint of water. When the water is boiled away, add a pint of milk, a 
piece of butter the size of an tgg; tjje yelks of three eggs, and the grated 



i°5 

rind of one lemon; mix well; pour into a pudding dish; spread over 
the top the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth with a teacup of 
sugar; set in the oven and brown a little. 

445. Plain Fruit Pudding — Take one and a-half cups of flour, 
one cup of bread crumbs, one cup of raisins, half a cup of currants, 
two nutmegs, one cup of suet chopped fine, two tablespoons of sugar, 
four eggs, a wine glass of brandy, a wine glass of syrup, and a little milk 
if necessary. Mix very thoroughly; tie it in a cloth as tight as possible, 
and boil fast for five or six hours. Serve with wine sauce. 

446. Snow Pudding — One-half a package of Cox's gelatine; 
pour over it a cup of cold water, and add one and a-half cups sugar; 
when soft, add one cup boiling water and the juice of one lemon; then 
the whites of four well-beaten eggs; beat all together until it is light 
and frothy, or until the gelatine will not settle clear in the bottom of 
the dish after standing a few minutes; put it on a glass dish, and serve 
with a custard made of one pint milk, the yelks of the four eggs, and 
the grated rind of a lemon; boil. 

447. Suet Pudding — Four cups flour, one cup molasses, 
one cup suet chopped fine, half-pound raisins, three-quarters of a cup 
milk, half teaspoon soda, and a little salt and cinnamon; boil two 
hours and a-half. To be eaten with sauce. 

448. Sweet Pudding — Four cups flour, one of molasses, one 
of suet finely chopped, half-pound raisins, three-quarters of a cup of 
milk, half a teaspoon soda, and a little cinnamon; boil two hours and a 
half; serve with sauce. 

*449. Yorkshire Pudding, with Roast Beef— See No. 97. 



PASTRY. 



The flour should be the best wheaten flour and perfectly dry, at 
least three months old; some brands of flour are especially in favor for 
pastry, among them the kind known as the " New Process/' If in the 
least damp it will be heavy. 

The butter, unless fresh is used, should be washed from the salt 
and well squeezed or wrung in a cloth to get out all the water or butter- 
milk; if left in, it will produce heavy paste. 

Lard should be perfectly sweet and white. It may be tested by 
running a knife or steel into; if, on withdrawing, it smells sweet, it is 
good. 

Suet should be finely chopped, perfectly sweet and free from skin- 
like tissue; when chopped, dredge with flour, which prevents the par- 
ticles adhering to each other. Beef suet is the best, but that of veal, 
or the outside fat of a loin or neck of mutton, makes good shortening, 
or the skimmings from boiled mutton, but only that without vegetables. 
Clarified beef drippings also make good crusts for ordinary puddings, 
pies or cakes; it should, however, be used sparingly. 



io6 

The art of making paste requires much practice and dexterity; it 
should be touched as lightly as possible, made with cool hands and in a 
cool place, and for same reason a marble slab is better than a board to 
knead or roll upon, using a well-floured rolling-pin of hard wood. In 
mixing, add the water (ice water is best in summer) ; very gradually 
work the whole together with the blade of a knife. The butter or 
other shortening should be cold and rather hard; to make it so put in 
cold water until about ready for it, when squeeze as before directed, 
break it in small bits, roll out the paste and cover with the bits of but- 
ter; fold over each end and roll out very thin again, repeating until all 
is used. To produce light pastes considerable expedition should be 
used both in making and baking; if it stands long before putting in the 
oven it will become flat and heavy. 

In baking custard, pumpkin or squash pies, that the mixture may 
not be absorbed by the paste, it is better to partly bake the crust before 
adding it. 

The pie tins, patty pans or dishes for baked puddings should be 
well greased, ready for use, sweet lard being as good or preferable to 
butter; crusts to be baked in sheets should be placed on buttered paper. 

Oven — Very important is the state of the oven; if a paste be skill- 
fully compounded with the best materials, and not properly baked, all is 
lost. Some require a quick oven, as puff-paste; others a warm and 
moderate one, and some a slow one. By placing a hand in the oven 
its heat may be determined very nearly. In baking a puff-paste try a 
small piece of the paste first. 

450. Puff Paste — One full pound sifted superfine flour, one of 
washed butter, pressed free from moisture in a clean cloth; place^the 
flour on the mixing board or marble slab; make a well in the center, into 
which squeeze the juice of half a lemon, and put in the yelk of an egg f 
beaten with a little ice- water; stir with one hand and drop in ice- water 
with the other until the paste is hard as the butter; roll out the paste 
in a smooth square an inch thick; smooth the sides with a rolling-pin 
and spread the butter over half the paste; lay the other half over it, and 
leave it for fifteen minutes in a cold place; then roll out in a long strip, 
keeping the edges smooth, and double it in three parts, thus: lap one- 
third over the middle, roll it down, then fold over the opposite third, 
and roll all out in a long strip again; repeat the folding, rolling across 
this time; let it lie fifteen minutes, and repeat six times, allowing fifteen 
minutes between each rolling to cool, or the butter will oil; the paste 
is now ready for use. The result will repay the trouble by being both 
light and flaky. The quantity of water depends on the capacity of the 
flour to absorb it. Handle as little as possible throughout the whole 
process. Rich pastes such as the above require a quick oven. 

451. Patties or Shells for Tarts— Roll out a nice puff 
paste thin; cut out with a glass or cookie cutter, and with a wine glass 
or smaller cutter cut out the center of two out of three; lay the rings 
thus made on the third, and bake at once. May be used for veal or 
oyster patties, or filled with any jelly, jam or preserves as tarts. 



452. Apple Custard Pie — Stew sour apples until soft and not 
much water is left in them, and rub through a colander; beat three eggs 
for each pie, and use one cup butter and one of flour for three pies; 
nutmeg seasoning. 

453. Apple Tarts — Pare, quarter, core and boil in half a cup 
water until quite soft ten large, tart apples; beat until very smooth and 
add the yelks of six eggs or three whole ones, the juice and grated out- 
side rind of two lemons, half a cup butter, one and a-half of sugar (or 
more if not sufficiently sweet); beat all thoroughly, line patty pans 
with a puff paste and fill; bake five minutes in a hot oven. 

Meringue — If desired very nice, cover them when removed from 
the oven with a meringue made of the whites of the three eggs remain- 
ing, mixed with three tablespoons sugar; return to the oven and deli- 
cately brown. 

454. Cream Pie — Thoroughly beat together half a cup sugar, 
the white of one egg and a tablespoon flour; then add a cup of rich 
milk, or use part cream; bake with only an undercrust, and grate nut- 
meg over it. 

455. Date Pie — One pound of dates makes three pies; soak 
them over night, then stew them until soft enough to strain; add one 
quart milk, three eggs, a little nutmeg and salt; bake without an upper 
crust. 

456. Lemon Pie — Grate the yellow rind and take the juice of 
one lemon, one cup sugar; take a heaping tablespoon of corn-starch 
and mix it with cold water; add a cup of boiling water, and cook a 
little; turn together; beat the yelk of one egg y and add to the mixture; 
beat the whites of two eggs to a froth with a little sugar, and put over 
the top after the pie is baked, and set in the oven to slightly brown. 

457. Lemon Pie — Into one quart boiling molasses put one-half 
cup water, the grated rind and juice of six lemons, one large spoonful 
c^rn starch, and two beaten eggs. This will fill three pies. 

458. Mince Meat — Use two bowls chopped apples, one of chop- 
ped meat, one-fourth pound chopped suet, the grated rind and juice of 
one lemon, two tea cups molasses, one large teaspoon each of cinnamon 
and cloves, one nutmeg grated fine, one pound stoned or seedless 
raisins, half pound currants, one-fourth pound citron cut fine, one quart 
cider, and sugar and salt to taste. 

459. Mock Mince Pie — Twelve crackers rolled fine, one cup 
hot water, half cup of vinegar, one cup each of sugar, currants and 
raisins; any spices to taste. This makes four pies. 

460. Pumpkin Pie — For three pies: one quart milk, three cups 
of boiled and strained pumpkin, one and a-half cups sugar, one-half cup 
molasses, four eggs, a little salt, and one teaspoon each of ginger and 
cinnamon. Boston marrow or Hubbard squash may be substituted for 
pumpkin, and are much preferred by many, as possessing a less strong 
flavor. 



BREMNER'S 

D.F.B. 





This Bread is made with the Best Minnesota Patent 
Flour ground from wheat selected for this purpose, with 
Milk from my own dairy farm, which is absolutely pure 
and full cream. The dough is mixed by machinery, made 
under my own directions from my own designs, and my 
patrons can see that it must be a much cleaner and uniform 
bread than that which is mixed up by hands. 

Purity of Material, Superiority of Workmanship 
and Cleanliness in Handling are my mottoes- 



FINE BISCUIT t FAMILY CRACKERS 

Are as much superior to other brands as my Bread. 

SIOW FLAKE, SOBA & CEEAM WAF1ES 

In tin cans, are not excelled. 



See that your Grocer gives you BREMNER'S goods. 



CAKE ^CONFECTIONERY. 



Of the numberless cakes produced through the multiferous com- 
binations of flour, sugar, fruits, raising powders or other ingredients, 
those only will be presented which lie within the skill of the accom- 
plished housekeeper. Ornamentation and decoration of fine cakes will 
be but lightly touched upon; it is a part, however, which presents an 
opportunity for the display of much taste and skill on the part of the 
operator. 

Preliminary Matters to Observe in Cake Making — Clean hands and 
nails thoroughly with a brush. Clean all utensils and the kitchen table 
very thoroughly, and have everything necessary in readiness. If the 
weather is warm place the eggs in a cold place, as they will beat stiffer 
and lighter, examine each thoroughly to ascertain if they are sound and 
fresh. Prepare the tins* before the cake is made, greasing with lard, 
and line the bottom with several thicknesses of paper, the top one well 
greased; it will do no harm to also line the sides. 

All flour and sugar used is to be sifted and weighed. Very hard 
butter should be warmed a little, but not melted. If quite salt or 
packed butter, freshen in cold w r ater, breaking it into bits. None but 
"good butter" should ever be used, and if beaten to a cream it saves 
warming. In using milk observe that with sour milk soda alone is 
necessary, but with sweet milk soda and cream of tartar or baking 
powder is used; the first makes a spongy, light cake, and the last one 
like pound cake. 

For all white and delicate cakes use powdered sugar; for rich cakes, 
plum cake, crushed loaf, powdered and sifted; for dark cakes, the best 
brown sugar, and for jelly cakes, light fruit cakes, "A" coffee or 
granulated. 

New flour in either bread or cake making, or for pastry, may be im- 
proved, i. e. y some of its moisture evaporated — by placing in the sun or 
before the fire the quantity to be used. When using " New Process*' 
flour recollect it requires less by an eighth than any other brand. 

Most good cake makers first stir the milk and flavoring into the 
creamed butter and sugar, then the yelks, next the whites and last 
the flour, after first mixing with two-thirds of it the baking powder, 
leaving the remainder to be used at discretion. 

A cup always means a tea-cup, and not a coffee-cup. 

Raisins should not be washed; to remove all dirt, stems, etc., rub 
them in a cloth and then carefully pick them over; if washed, it is diffi- 
cult to dry them, so they will not make the cake heavy. Raisins or 
other fruit should be added the last thing before the cake is baked. 
Grate only the outer or yellow rind of lemons or oranges; the white or 
inner peel contains none of the required flavor, but, on the contrary, is 
bitter A reliable baking powder may be used in all cases where soda 
and cream of tartar is mentioned, using the same quantity given for the 



no 

two together. The proportions to use of baking powder is generally 
three teaspoons to a quart of flour, or one of soda and two of cream of 
tartar. 

Do not stir, but beat cake batter, beating upward and very 
thoroughly; beat with a wooden spoon; iron will turn the batter dark, 
and for same reason always use an earthen or stoneware vessel to beat 
it in. 

The proper heating of the oven is of great importance, especially 
for large cakes; if not very hot the batter will not rise. If the oven be 
too quick, and there is danger of burning, put a sheet of clean white 
paper over the top. 

To ascertain when a cake is properly done stick a knife or knitting- 
needle to the center, withdraw it quickly, and if it looks at all sticky 
it is not and must be returned. 

It is better to keep cake in a closed tin cake-box or covered jar, and 
always in a dry place. 

461. Coldwater Pound Cake — Half cup butter, two of sugar, 
three eggs, one cup cold water, three pounds flaur, one teaspoon cream 
tartar, one-half teaspoon soda. 

462. Cocoanut Cookies — One cup sugar, half cup butter, one 
egg, two tablespoons milk, one and a-half teaspoons baking powder, 
and a little salt, one cup desiccated or grated cocdanut, enough flour 
to roll. 

463. Delicious Cake — One cup sugar, half cup butter, two 
eggs — the yelks and whites separately beaten— half a cup milk, one cup 
and a-half flour, and one and a-half teaspoons baking powder. 

464. French Chocolate Cake — The whites of seven eggs 
two cups sugar, two-thirds cup butter, one of milk and three of flour, 
three teaspoons baking powder; the chocolate part of the cake is made 
the same as the above, only use yelks of the eggs and one cup grated 
chocolate; bake it in layers, and spread a custard between them, which 
is made with two eggs, one pint milk, one : half cup sugar, one table- 
spoon corn-starch, and one teaspoon extract vanilla. 

465. Jumbles — Two cups sugar, one of butter, three eggs, one- 
third cup of milk, one and a-half teaspoons baking powder, and flour 
enough to roll. 

466. Lemon Cake— One and a-half cups sugar» half cup 
butter, three eggs, half teaspoon soda dissolved in half cup of milk, 
two heaping cups sifted flour, a little salt, and the grated peel and 
juice of one lemon; bake in two shallow pans, and cut i ito squares. 

467. Lemon Snaps — One cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two 
eggs, one teaspoon essence lemon, a quarter teaspoon soda dissolved in 
a teaspoon of milk, flour enough to make very stiff, and roll very thin. 

468. Marble Cake— For the White Part— Rait cup butter, 
one and a-half cups white sugar, half a cup sweet milk, two and a-half 
pounds flour, a quarter teaspoon soda, the whites of four eggs; flavor 
with lemon. 



Ill 

For the Dark Fart~Hali cup butter, the same of molasses, two 
of brown sugar, half cup sour milk, half teaspoon soda, yelks of four 
eggs, and one whole egg y two cups flour, spices to taste; after each part 
is thoroughly mixed, butter the pans well and put in first a couple of 
large spoons of the dark, and then the same of white part, alternately, 
until all is used. 

469. Molasses Gingerbread — One large cup molasses, one 
tablespoon lard, one cup sour milk, a dessert spoon soda, one tablespoon 
ginger, and flour to make a very stiff paste. 

470. Neapolitaines — One pound of flour, half pound of pow- 
dered sugar, half pound of butter, six eggs, six yelks, quarter ounce 
of rose or orange blossom water; mix the flour, sugar, butter and eggs 
together with the perfume; if too stiff, add a little milk; leave the 
dough half an hour in a cool place; roll it out a quarter of an inch 
thick, and cut it with a small tin cutter of any shape; put the cakes on 
a pan slightly greased, and color the tops with beaten egg and milk, with 
some chopped almonds over them; cook in a very hot oven. — Fernand 
Fere , Chef de Cuisine, Astor House, New York. 

471. Spice Cake — One cup sugar, a piece of butter the size 
of an egg, one egg y one cup sour milk, one teaspoon soda; spice to 
taste, and flour enough to make a thick batter. 

472. Sponge Cake — The desirable feature of good sponge 
cake is its lightness, which is only attained by long-continued hard 
beating, to do this well requires two persons. While one beats the yelk 
for fifteen to twenty minutes, as light and creamy as possible, and then 
beats in three-quarters of a pound of sugar with rose water until thick 
and light, another person should beat the whites until well frothed, but 
do not whiten, then slowly beat into them the remaining quarter pound 
of sugar, and whisk until it no longer stiffens, or until the former 
preparation is complete. Now, lightly and steadily add the last mix- 
ture and the flour with the first, a little of each alternately, stirring- 
only enough to mix them well, avoiding hard beating which would 
toughen the whole. The buttered pans should be ready, and whether 
round, square or patty pans, fill them half to two-thirds full; sift sugar 
over them, and bake in a moderate oven. Material: Ten ounces of 
sifted pastry flour, a pound powdered sugar, twelve eggs, two table- 
spoons rose water, or other flavors may be used, as almonds, using an 
ounce blanched bitter almonds; lemon, use the grated rind and juice 
of two large lemons, mixed and strained after standing an hour; 
vanilla, use a tablespoon of vanilla sugar, beat in with the yelks at 
first — the two others mix with the sugar. The cake may be iced with 
rose icing or with almond, orange-flower, lemon or vanilla icing. This 
is a very useful cake in the formation of the different Charlottes jelly 
cakes, lady-fingers, or in small round cup cakes. 

473. Sponge Cake — Two cups sugar, five eggs, two-thirds 
cup boiling water, two and a-half cups flour, two teaspoons baking 
powder; beat the yelks of the eggs thin; add the sugar; when well 



112 






beaten together add the boiling water, then the whites which have been 
beaten to a stiff froth, and lastly the flour and baking powder; flavor 
with lemon or vanilla. 

474. Cream Frosting — A cup of sweet cream whipped and 
flavored with vanilla, cut a loaf of cake in two, spread the frosting be- 
tween and on the top; this tastes like Charlotte Russe. 

475. Hard or Plain Icing for Cake— Break the whites of 
four eggs into a large platter, in a cool room, or in summer set it on 
ice; whisk them until they foam, but do not whiten; then sift in the 
sugar slowly, beating steadily from the bottom, so as to bring up every 
drop at each sweep of the whip, and continue until as white and fine as 
snow and can be cut with a knife. 

If the whites do not froth, throw in a pinch of alum or soda; some- 
times they may require a little more sugar, but the average is four 
ounces to the white of a full-sized egg. This is a plain icing. All 
icings should be applied in two coats; let the first one dry before 
putting on the second, which can be sufficiently thinned with water 
to work smooth. If any ornaments are used, they must be put on 
while the second icing is still moist. The flavors mostly used are 
almond, chocolate, lemon, orange, rose or vanilla. 

476. A Soft Icing — Is preferable to hard for some kinds of 
cake. Mix half a pound of finely pulverized and sifted sugar with a 
tablespoon boiling water, and the same of any fruit juices fancied; 
spread at once on the cake while yet warm, about an eighth of an inch 
thick; color if desired. 

CONFECTIONERY. 

We give only such plain home-made candies as are easily produced. 

Most kitchens will possess utensils which may be used in candy- 
making, one of the most convenient of which is a block tin sauce-pan, 
with flaring sides, a long handle, and a lip to facilitate pouring; or a porce- 
lain, iron or brass kettle will do, but should be very clean. Make can- 
dies in a vessel deep enough to contain it when swelled by heat, and 
remove from the fire when danger of boiling over. Watch carefully 
that it does not burn. 

477. Clarifying Syrup — Dissolve four pounds white sugar in 
a quart of water, place over a slow fire for half an hour and stir in the 
white of an egg; skim off all impurities that arise, or dissolve together 
a small quantity of gelatine and gum-arabic and pour in instead of the 
^gg* To perfect the clarification still more strain it through a jelly bag. 

478. Other Candies — Are produced from the same syrup by 
bringing it to such a heat that the threads which drop from the spoon, 
when exposed to cold air, will be brittle and snap like glass. When 
this stage is reached add a teaspoon of vinegar or cream tartar to pre- 
vent graining. It may then be flavored, colored, poured into pans or 
pulled into sticks. To make into sticks pull or roll into shape, with the 
hands greased or floured. 



H3 

479. Rock Candy — Boil the above much longer; allow it to 
cool, and the crystallization will form at the sides of the kettle or 
adhere to threads hung in it. 

480. Butter Scotch — Three pounds "A " coffee sugar, aquar- 
ter pound butter, half teaspoon cream tartar, eight drops extract lemon; 
add sufficient water only to dissolve the sugar; boil without stirring till 
it will easily break when dropped in cold water, and when done add the 
lemon; pour into a well buttered dripping-pan a quarter inch thick, and 
when partly cold mark off into small squares. 

481. Ice Cream Candy — Make the candy as above, flavoring 
with vanilla, rose or lemon, and when partly cold pull until very white. 
It may also be colored to a pink color with a little carmine. 

482. Chocolate Caramels — One and a-half cups grated cho- 
colate, four of brown sugar, one and a-half cold water, an egg-sized 
piece of butter and two tablespoons sharp vinegar; boil on the top of a 
stove over a brisk fire until it becomes brittle when dropped in water; 
do not stir, but shake the vessel while boiling; flavor with two table- 
spoons vanilla just before taking from the fire; pour into a buttered 
and floured dripping-pan, and check off into even squares while soft. 

483. Cocoa-Nut Drops — One pound desiccated cocoa-nut, 
half pound powdered sugar and the w r hite of an egg; work all together, 
roll into little balls in the hand and bake on buttered tins. 

484. Hickory Nut Macaroons — To hickory nuts pounded 
fine add mixed ground allspice and nutmeg; make a frosting as for 
cakes; stir in the meats and spices, putting in enough only to make it 
convenient to handle; flour the hands, and make the mixture into balls 
about the size of a nutmeg; lay them on tins well buttered, giving 
room to spread; bake in a quick oven; use washed butter for greasing 
the tins; lard or salt butter gives an unpleasant taste. 

485. Hoarhound Candy — Boil two ounces dried hoarhound 
in a pint and a-half water for about half an hour, strain and add three 
and a half pounds brown sugar; boil over a hot fire until sufficiently 
hard; pour out in flat, well greased tins and mark into sticks or small 
squares with a knife as soon as cool enough to retain its shape. 

486. Molasses Candy — One cup molasses (common or New 
Orleans), one cup sugar, an egg-sized piece of butter sweet and not 
salt, and a tablespoon vinegar; boil, but do not stir until it hardens 
when dropped into cold water; when done stir in a teaspoon of soda 
and beat well; pour into buttered pans, and when cool pull until white; 
cut into sticks; flavor if desired, just before pouring out to cool. 

487. Caramel or Burnt Sugar — For Coloring Soups, Sauces 
or Gravies — Put one cup sugar and two teaspoons water in a sauce- 
pan on the fire; stir constantly until it is quite a dark color, then add a • 
half cup water and a pinch of salt; let it boil a few minutes, and when 
cold, bottle. 



^ICE CREAM.** 



WM. THOMPSON, 

Manufacturer of Pure 
. AND WHOLESALE DEALER IN 

■^Milk and Creams 



I make a specialty of Dining Cars, Hotels, Restaurants, 
Picnics, Church Festivals, Dealers, etc. 

Beino- the largest manufacturer in the West and the 
secondln the United States, and affording better facilities 
than other manufacturers, by owning my own milk dairy, 
raising my own cream, owning four farms stocked with 
cows, which produce ioo cans of milk daily, and being the 
largest milk dealer in the city, I feel justified in guaran- 
teeing to my patrons better goods for the same money 
than any other dealer. 

Goods delivered in city free of charge. 

Again soliciting your valued patronage, I am, very 
respectfully, yours, 

WM. THOMPSON, 

154 Dearborn St., Chicago, 111. 

P. S.— Country orders will receive prompt attention. 
Special rates to dealers. 






CUSTARDS, CREAMS 9 ICES. 

Note — The preparation of these delicacies successfully is a matter 
of considerable care and attention to detail, and the following condensed 
directions are necessary: 

A custard-kettle is almost indispensable, but one may be improvised 
by setting a tin pail within a kettle or sauce-pan; it is made of block tin 
or tinned iron, one within the other, forming a water-bath. Gelatine 
used for creams should be soaked for an hour or so in a little cold 
water or milk set in a warm place; a bowl set in the top of a tea kettle 
will be most convenient. Use it by pouring into the hot custard just 
after removing from the fire. For creams or custards, eggs should be 
beaten in stone or earthenware to attain the creamy lightness desirable. 
For custards, the usual rule is four eggs, a cup sugar, and a saltspoon 
of salt to a quart of milk. Bake in a baking-dish until firm in the 
center, taking care that the heat is but moderate, or it will turn mostly 
to whey; it will thus be much more delicate. For boiled custards, the 
yelks alone should be used, but for economy, the whole egg; boil the 
milk in the custard-kettle, and when, by a light foam on top, it shows, to 
be about boiling, add the sugar; let it remain a few minutes, stirring 
until it thickens a little, but not long enough to curdle, then immedi- 
ately set the inner kettle (or pail, if not a custard-kettle) in cold water, 
or at once turn out into a cold dish; curdling will result from its stand- 
ing in the kettle. Boiled custards require the closest attention until 
finished. A box-wood or heavily tinned iron spoon, with a long handle, 
should be used for custards or creams. 

The moulds for Charlotte Russe, blanc mange, and all other creams 
should be first w T et with cold water before setting on the ice to harden. 
Gelatine is not necessary for Charlotte Russe; the filling may be made stiff 
enough by using an egg whip or beater, or whip churn, for the purpose. 

488. Ice Creams — Note — There are two entire different and 
distinct kinds produced by confectioners or professional caterers in this 
country, one known as Neapolitan (originally produced at Naples, in 
Italy), and the Philadelphia, originating in that city. The former con- 
tains a greater proportion of eggs, and is rich, smooth and solid as butter, 
is a lemon yellow color and custard flavor. The latter has the full, rich 
flavor of sweet cream, and of a creamy white tint. 

489. The Materials for ice cream are principally cream, sugar, 
eggs, all varieties of flavors, fruit and their juices, ice and salt; also may 
be added different colorings. 

490. The Cream — Regarding cream, it may be said here that it 
can have no substitute, either by dilution with part milk, or milk and 
either tapioca, arrowroot, corn-starch or the addition of gelatine; the 
production will not be ice cream, but a frozen milk custard. The first 
operation is the cooking of the cream and sugar, with or without eggs, 
according to the kind, Neapolitan or Philadelphia, desired. 



n6 

491 . For Neapolitan Ice Cream — Strain and beat the yelks to a 
smooth cream, add the sugar and again beat; strain and whisk the whites 
to the stiffest possible froth, and stir briskly with the yelks and sugar; 
then mix with the cream, adding such flavors as are needed to be 
cooked. Cook the whole in a custard-kettle over a brisk fire, stirring 
continually until it will slightly coat the blade of a knife, but does not 
run; then be careful it does not curdle. Take it off the fire and strain 
through a wire sieve into a crockery ware bowl; cover it with a gauze 
and let it cool; pour it into the freezer (which should be of at least six 
quarts capacity), and set it in the ice pail or tub, well pack it with ice, 
and let it stand, covered only with gauze, until thoroughly cold, when 
it is ready for freezing. 

492. For Philadelphia Ice Cream — It is sometimes made from 
uncooked cream, if fresh, and if desired of a very light or snowy texture, 
this is better, but must be beat, during its entire freezing, vigorously. 
It will swell or increase in bulk from a quarter to a third, but loses in 
quality, and consequently the cooking is preferable, giving it greater 
body and richness. Cook it in a custard-kettle, as previously directed, 
until the water in the outer pan boils, take it off the fire, add the sugar 
and any flavors that may be cooked with it, stir until the sugar is entirely 
dissolved, let stand a few minutes, strain and cool same as the Neapolitan. 
Fruit juices are not to be cooked with cream in any case, but mixed 
with the sugar; stir until a clear syrup is produced, and stirred into the 
ice cold cream before commencing to freeze it; or better, beaten 
into it just after it is frozen. In attempting to freeze cream when even 
lukewarm, it is apt to curdle or become granulated; it is also more 
rapidly and easily frozen if first chilled, and with less ice. 

493. The Freezer — For family use, select one of the new patent 
freezers, as being more rapid and less laborious for small quantities than 
the old style turned entirely by the hand. All conditions being perfect, 
those with crank and revolving dashers effect freezing in eight to fifteen 
minutes. 

494. Freezing — Take the freezer containing the ice cream, as 
above, from the ice-pail, remove the ice and water; replace the freezer 
and pack with ice nearly to the brim, sprinkling a quart of coarse salt 
uniformly through it as it is put in; cover and fasten the can and turn 
the crank until difficult to turn longer; open the can, remove the dasher, 
scrape the hardened cream from the sides with a spatula, and beat the 
contents with a wooden paddle till smooth, but no longer; close the can, 
draw off the salt brine into a bucket; add fresh salt and ice, covering 
also the top; wrap a blanket or piece of carpet around and over the 
ice-pail; wet it well with icy brine and let stand for an hour and a-half 
to two hours; open the freezer, scrape down and beat the cream again, 
and again pack with fresh ice and salt to harden and ripen. Be very 
careful not to let a drop of brine or a grain of salt get into the cream. 
In very warm weather it may be necessary to renew the ice and salt a 
second or third time; it should always be done whenever the brine 
floats the ice. All the directions being followed no better ice cream 
can be produced. 



"7 

495. Water Ices — Note — Are all compounded of the juice of 
fruit, sugar and water. For the reason that they are generally pro- 
duced in texture like a hardened mixture of flavored snow and water, 
often lumpy and having a gritty taste, they enjoy less popularity than 
ice creams. They melt quickly, even in the freezing can, if left open 
but a few minutes, and soon become soft and spongy. Water ices are 
made of many degrees of richness, from the pure juice of fruit, with 
its weight of sugar, down to a simple frozen lemonade. 

By observing the following directions they may be made as smooth 
and firm as the best ice cream. 

4:96. General Instructions for Producing in every Variety— -The 
sugar and water must be cooked in a custard-kettle to a clear syrup, 
the scum removed and then strained through a fine muslin cloth and set 
to cool; pour it into the freezer, add the prepared fruit juices and other 
materials, if any, and pack with ice in lumps the size of an egg, sprinkling 
in a quart of coarse salt as it is added; cover and fasten the can, and 
turn slowly and steadily until it goes rather hard. It requires more time 
for freezing than for ice creams, generally fifteen to twenty minutes. 

Open the can, scrape down the sides, and stir till smooth; then put 
in the white of one egg y beaten with a teaspoon of finely powdered 
sugar, to a stiff froth, and worked smooth; a larger quantity of egg is 
apt to produce a milky appearance. 

Then proceed as for ice cream at this stage, letting it stand longer, 
two to three hours. Always keep the blanket wet with the icy brine. 

If the granular kind of ices are desired, mix the sugar, water and 
juices, and freeze without cooking; also omit the egg finish. 

When fruit jellies are used, gently heat the water sufficiently to 
melt them, then cool and freeze as above directed. ^ 

497. Moulding — Ice creams and water ices are moulded in same 
manner. The moulds should be filled solidly in every part, to expel all 
air; heap the cream a little above the brim, press the cover down hard, 
bind a buttered cloth over the joint, and bury it in ice and salt. If the 
mould be a figure in two parts, fill each half a little more than full; 
the excess will squeeze out on closing, f When ready to serve, wash the 
moulds in cold water, take off the cloth, wipe, the mould dry, lift off 
the cover, and turn it over on a plate; if the room is warm it will slip 
off the cream in a few minutes. Never immerse or use warm water. 

498. Granites or " Frappes " — Turn them out as soon as 
half frozen, like wet snow. 

Six quarts of the following are produced by this process: 

499. Orange Ice — Three quarts water, four pounds sugar, one 
quart orange juice and juice of two lemons; requires a dozen and a 
half juicy oranges. Lemon, strawberry or raspberry made in same 
manner, using the fruit juices or extracts. 

J 500. Pineapple Ice — Water and sugar as above; one and a-half 
pints pineapple, a gill orange, and half a gill lemon juices; requires two 
large pines, six oranges and three lemons. The pineapple juice is pre- 
pared thus: Select bird's-eye pines, take out the core or heart, which is 
bitter; mash and strain the pulp, using immediately, as it quickly darkens, 



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AN ABSOLUTELY PURE ARTICLE, 



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Every Barrel Labeled with our Written Guarantee of its 
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State, and Chicago City Fairs. 

Prussing Vinegar Co. 

OHICAOO. 



SAUCES, CATSUPS P PICKLES. 

Sauces Note—Not the least in importance in the art of 

cookery are sauces. Many an excellent piece of meat or fowls are 
spoiled by using a bad, inappropriate or indifferent sauce; while, on the 
other hand, good sauces add much to the delicacy of food preparations. 
In nothing is there a wider or a better field for the display of the talent 
or taste of the cook than in their skillful production or adaptability. 
Contrary to an erroneous but prevailing opinion, good sauces or gravies 
are quite easily and inexpensively produced. They should all be de- 
cided in character, and whether sweet, piquant, savory or plain, should 
maintain their name by their flavor. 

The basis of most sauces or gravies is the same as for soups— the 
" stock kettle " (see note on Soups, page 81). 

Being usually served in smaller quantities than soups, and as they 
should be served very hot, they require the special care of the cook. 
Those sauces formed in part of cream or eggs should be well stirred 
from the time they are added, and while kept very hot, to prevent 
curdling, should never be allowed to boil. As a rule they should be 
added last, or just before serving. Stir soups, sauces or catsups with a 
wooden spoon, never a metal one. 

501. Anchovy Sauce— Add two teaspoons of anchovy paste 
or essence— kept by all first-class grocers— to white sauce, No. 515, or 
drawn butter, No. 507. It should be served with or upon 'boiled fish, 
especially boiled cod. 

502. Apple Sauce— Made plain, simply stewing and sweeten- 
ing, adding a little cinnamon or nutmeg, or both; is usually served 
with roast pork or goose. 

503. Caper or Nasturtion Sauce — For Boiled Mutton — 
Chop the capers a very little, unless quite small; make half a pint 
drawn butter, to which add the capers, with a large spoon of the juice 
from the bottle in which they are sold; let it just simmer, and serve in 
a tureen. Nasturtions much resemble capers in taste, though larger, 
and may be used, and, in fact, are preferred by many. They are grown 
on a climbing vine, and are cultivated for their blossom and for pickling. 
When used as capers they should be chopped more. If neither capers 
or nasturtions are at hand some pickled gherkins, chopped up, form a 
very good substitute in the sauce. 

504. Chili Sauce— Take twelve large ripe tomatoes, four ripe 
or' three green peppers, two onions, two tablespoons salt, two of sugar, 
one of cinnamon, three cups vinegar; peel tomatoes and onions; chop 
them separately very fine; add the peppers chopped with the other 
ingredients, and boil one and a-half hours. A quart, of canned toma 
toes may be used instead of the ripe ones, when out of season 



120 

505. Chili Sauce — Use twenty-six medium-sized ripe tomatoes, 
two onions, four peppers — one green — chopped fine, two cups vinegar, 
two tablespoons salt, twelve tablespoons brown sugar, two of ginger, 
two of ground cinnamon, one of cloves, one of allspice, one nutmeg; 
boil gently about two hours; for larger quantities use same proportions. 

506. Cranberry Sauce — After removing all imperfect or soft 
berries, wash thoroughly; place for about two minutes in scalding 
water; skim out or drain, and to every pound of fruit add three- 
quarters of a pound granulated sugar, a half pint water, and stew 
over a moderate fire. Be careful to cover, but don't stir the fruit, 
occasionally shaking the pan if in danger of burning. The berries will 
thus retain their shape and add to their appearance. Boil from five to 
seven minutes; remove from fire; turn into a deep dish, and set aside 
to cool. If to be kept, they can be put up in air-tight jars. 

507. Drawn Butter — Into a half tablespoon of flour rub a small 
cup of butter; beat it very thoroughly until smooth; add a little salt if 
the butter does not afford enough, and pour on it half a pint boiling 
water, stirring fast; do not let it boil, or it will be oily, and conse- 
quently spoiled. It will be less likely to burn if prepared in a custard 
kettle or water bath. This resembles the white sauce, No. 515, and may 
be made 'to form the nucleus for a great variety of sauces for fish, 
poultry or boiled meats by the addition of different herbs; first throw 
them into boiling water, cut fine, and add. 

508. Green Tomato Sauce — Cut up a pint of green toma- 
toes; take three gills black mustard seed, three tablespoons dry mus- 
tard, two and a-half of black pepper, one and a-half allspice, four of 
salt, two of -celery seed, one quart each of chopped onions and sugar, 
and two and a-half quarts good vinegar, a little red pepper to taste; 
beat the spices and boil all together until well done. 

509. Lemon Sauce — Cut three slices of lemon into very 
small dice, and put them into drawn butter; let it come just to boiling 
point, and pour over boiled fowls. 

510. Lobster Sauce — Chop the meat from the claws and tail 
of a good sized lobster into pieces, but not too small, and half an hour 
before dinner make half a pint drawn butter or white sauce and mix. 

511. Mayonnaise Sauce — In hot weather it may be neces- 
sary to place the bowl over ice in preparing it; in a two-quart bowl mix 
one even teaspoon ground mustard, one of salt and one and a-half of vine- 
gar; beat in the yelk of a raw egg y then add very gradually half a pint 
pure olive oil or clarified butter, beating briskly all the time; the mix- 
ture will become a very thick batter; flavor with vinegar or fresh 
lemon juice; when closely covered it will keep for some weeks in a 
cold place. 

512. Mint Sauce — The mint usually employed is spearmint, 
although peppermint for convenience is sometimes used. Take fresh, 
young mint, strip leaves from stems, wash, drain on a sieve or dry them 
on a cloth; chop very fine, put in a sauce-tureen, and to three neaped 



121 

tablespoons mint add two of powdered sugar; let remain a few minutes 
well mixed together, and pour over it gradually six tablespoons of good 
vinegar; the sauce may be strained after it has stood for two or three 
hours, pressing it well; it should be made an hour or two before dinner 
that the flavor may be-well extracted; is considered almost indispensible 
with roast lamb. 

513. Oyster Sauce — From half a pint of oysters carefully 
remove all bits of shell, and set over the fire in a pint of boiling water 
and let it boil three minutes; skim well and stir in a half cup butter, 
beaten to a cream, with two tablespoons flour; let it come to a.- boil. 
Is served with boiled turkey. 

514. Oyster Sauce — Make a white sauce, No. 515; boil the 
oysters slightly, and mix thoroughly with the same. 

515. White Sauce — Put two ounces of butter in a small 
sauce-pan, set it on the fire, stir a little, and as soon as melted remove 
to a slower fire; add a tablespoon of flour, stir continually till thor- 
oughly mixed, and gently pour in a pint of boiling water, stirring con- 
tinually; when it begins to thicken take off the fire; add the yelk of an 
Ggg y beaten with a teaspoon of cold water; mix it well with the sauce; 
season with salt and pepper, and it is done. 

516. Orange Hard Sauce — Select a thin-skinned orange, care- 
fully peel it in six even parts towards the stem end, preserving it whole; 
extract the juice and mix it with a light, moist (extra C) sugar sufficient to 

, form into a ball nearly the size of the orange originally, which place in 
the peel and serve. A lemon sauce may be prepared the same way. 

517. A Sweet Sauce for Puddings — In half a pmt of melted 
butter with milk stir three tablespoons powdered or granulated sugar, 
a little grated lemon-rind, nutmeg or powdered cinnamon; other flavor- 
ing fancied may be added to the milk in preparing the butter; is served 
with rice, batter or bread puddings. 

518. Sour Sauce— Mix one and a-half cups sugar and half a 
tablespoon flour in a little water; add two tablespoons vinegar or lemon 
juice, a quarter of a nutmeg grated and a pinch of salt; pour over it 
one and -a-half pints boiling water, and boil ten minutes; just before 
taking up add a tablespoon of butter. 

519. A Sauce for Fritters— See under Fritters No. 90. 

CATSUPS. 

Note. — In making any kind of catsup use a granite or porcelain 
kettle; never in mettle, or it will not only discolor but affect its flavor. 
Always select perfect fruit, vegetables or other materials, and keep in 
stone or glass bottles or jars; never use tin cans with any expectation 
that it will not spoil, or preserve its original taste. It will be less apt to 
mould if the bottles or jars are not filled quite to the top. Some fill up 
with hot vinegar. Should there be a skim of mould over the top when 
opened, remove every particle and the catsup will be uninjured. When, 
however, there appears white specks through it, it is irretrievably spoiled. 



122 

After opening, if too thick, add vinegar sufficient to thin; or, if in 
danger of souring before it is all used, scalding will prevent it. 

520. Mushroom Catsup — Use the larger kind, known as 
umbrella or " flaps." They must be very fresh and not gathered in 
very wet weather, or the catsup will be less apt to keep. Wash and cut 
them in two to four pieces, and place them in a wide flat jar or crock 
in layers, sprinkling each layer with salt, and let them stand for twenty- 
four hours; take them out and press out the juice, when bottle and 
cork; put the mushrooms back again, and in another twenty-four hours 
pressnhem again, bottle and cork; repeat this for the third time, and 
then mix together all the juice extracted; add to it pepper, allspice, 
one or more cloves, according to quantity, pounded together; boil the 
whole, and skim as long as any scum rises; bottle when cool; put in 
each bottle two cloves and a pepper-corn. Cork and seal, put in a dry 
place, and it will keep for years. 

521. Tomato Catsup — Take one bushel of solid ripe to- 
matoes; clean them with a wet cloth, cut off any unripe, part about the 
stem end, or any warts or blemish; put them in a granite or porce- 
lain-lined kettle, or a genuine bell-metal one, never let them come 
in contact with iron; pour over them about three pints of water; add 
ten or twelve onions or shallots, cut fine; boil until soft; some take 
about two hours; strain through a coarse sieve, pour the liquid back 
again into the boiling kettle, and add half a gallon of good cider vine- 
gar; then take two ounces ground spice, two ounces ground black 
pepper, two ounces mustard (seed or ground, as preferred), one ounce 
ground cloves, two grated nutmegs, two pounds light brown sugar, and 
one pint of salt; mix these ingredients well together and put in the 
boiler, boiling two hours, stirring continually to prevent burning; 
cayenne pepper to be added to taste if wished hot. When cool, fill 
bottles or jars. Cork and seal with wax, so as to exclude the air (see 
note for directions regarding preservation of catsup). Keep in a cool, 
dry place. 

PICKLES. 

Note — For pickles use the best cider or white wine vinegar, when 
the latter can be procured, and not an acid vinegar, so called. It can 
not be too strong, as it is weakened when scalded to pour over the 
pickles. Unscalded vinegar does not keep well with pickles. 

Never use a metal vessel in pickling; it should be either the new 
granite ware or porcelain, and keep in stone or glass, in the cellar or 
other cool, dark place. They should be examined frequently, and soft 
ones removed; if white specks appear in the vinegar drain it off and 
scald, add a half tea-cup of sugar to each gallon and pour again over 
the pickles; a few bits of horse-radish or a few cloves in the vinegar 
will aid in maintaining its life. 

All vegetables or fruit for pickling, except for sweet pickles, should 
be sound, but not quite ripe. Do not scald cucumbers, but soak them in 
salt and water. Boiled beets can be pickled whole, first removing the 
skin, to be sliced when required. Vegetables that require to be boiled or 



123 

scalded before pickling will be whiter if a little lemon or green grape juice 
is added to the water, as cabbage, cauliflower, melons, mangoes, white 
beets or onions. Care should be used not t© scald too much, or they 
will be soft and tasteless. For green vegetables put a little soda in the 
water to preserve the color. Always have the vegetables or fruit perfectly 
cold before pouring over the vinegar, which should be in all cases very hot. 
A good average of spices to a quart of pickles is an even teaspoon 
of each of allspice, pepper corns, half each of mustard seed or horse- 
radish finely chopped, a tablespoon of stick cinnamon broken, and 
a piece of Jamaica ginger an inch long. 

522. Pickled Cucumbers — The small green ones, termed 
gherkins, are the best to use. Clean them well in cold water with a 
brush, removing all prickles, and soak in a strong rock-salt brine for 
about three days; take them out and put into wide-mouthed bottles or 
jars, with a few cloves of garlic, pepper-corns, cloves, rock-salt, and a 
bunch of seasonings, composed of bay leaves, tarragon, or other flavor- 
ing herbs, to taste, all tied in a Swiss muslin bag; fill each jar with 
vinegar as soon as it boils, and when they are perfectly cold cover them 
air-tight. They should be looked at every, two or three days for first 
three weeks, and should the pickles or vinegar turn white, throw away 
the vinegar and spices, and add new hot vinegar and fresh spices; cover 
when cold as before. Small white onions may be pickled with the 
cucumbers if desired. 

523. Pickled Onions — Select small silver-skinned onions; re- 
move with a knife all the outer skins, so that each onion will be per- 
fectly white and clean; soak them in strong brine three days, drain. 
Place in a jar first a layer of onions three inches deep, then sprinkle 
with a mixture of the following: Two teaspoons each chopped horse- 
radish and cloves, four tablespoons cinnamon bark and half a teaspoon 
cayenne pepper to each gallon of pickles; then another layer of onions, 
and repeat until jar is filled; bring vinegar to boiling point; add brown 
sugar in the proportion of a quart to a gallon,and pour hot over the onions. 

524. Piccalilli — One large white cabbage, fifty small cucum- 
bers (gherkins), five quarts small string beans, eight small carrots, one 
dozen sticks celery, five red peppers, three green peppers, two heads 
cauliflower; chop fine, soak over night in salt and water; wash well, 
drain thoroughly, and pour over them hot vinegar spiced with mace, 
cinnamon and allspice; turn off vinegar and scald; place in common 
well covered jars, or seal in cans while hot. 

525. Sweet Pickles — They may be made of any fruit that can 
be preserved, including the rinds of ripe watermelons and cucumbers. 
The syrup is made in the proportions of three pints of sugar to a quart 
of vinegar. Use the best vinegar and " C " coffee or best brown sugar. 
The spices to be used are principally stick cinnamon and whole cloves; 
the latter stuck in the fruit if desired highly spiced. 

526. Sweet Pickle for Fruit — For each seven pounds of fruit 
take four pounds light brown sugar, one pint vinegar, half an ounce 
cloves and the same of cinnamon; boil all but the fruit two mornings 
in succession, and pour over the fruit; the third morning boil all together. 




H. WICHERT, 



77, 79, 81 & 83 W.Lake Street, 

CHICAGO 



MANUFACTURER 



MUSTARD 



AND 






PICKLES 



Olivet Salad Oils. 




PREPARER OF 




HORSE RADISH, 



Genuine Tomato Catsup 



AND 



Table Sauces. 




JELLIES AND PRESERVES. 

Note — Of the different sweetmeats compounded with sugar are 
jellies, preserves, marmalades, jams and candied fruits. 

In producing any of the above the greatest care must be taken, 
as economy of time will be likely to prove a waste of material. All 
fruits employed should be of the freshest, and if possible those gathered 
in the morning, in dry weather, when they will possess the fullest flavor 
and keep longer. 

The best sugar is the most economical for preserves, jams, etc., 
and clarified or loaf sugar for jellies. For clear, transparent syrups 
used in preserves, refined sugars must be used, although darker shades 
may be clarified. 

The utensils used should be of porcelain, granite-ware, block-tin, 
genuine bell metal, copper or brass. The three last should be kept 
particularly bright and clean. It is better to use a boxwood or wedge- 
wood-ware spoon, rather than metal, for all purposes of stirring or 
handling. 

JELLIES. 

Note — Fruit jellies are compounded ot the juice of fruits, com- 
bined with sugar, concentrated by boiling to such a consistency that the 
liquid upon cooling assumes the form of a tremulous jelly. Many 
fruits do not contain sufficient gelatine properties to assume the jelly 
form, when the refined gelatine or isinglass must be used in sufficient 
quantities to produce that result. The best meat jellies are made from 
calves' feet or head, by the addition of sugar and flavors. 

' A jelly bag is an essential to jelly making, and is made as follows: 
Use a stout white flannel cloth (that called double-milled, much used 
for ironing blankets, is the best); cut it in the shape of a fool's cap, lap 
the edges, and stitch each edge. The most convenient way of using 
is to tie it on a hoop the exact size of the mouth of the bag, for which 
purpose several tapes should be sewn round the edge at equal distances. 
A convenient way of using is to suspend it from the back of a chair. 
Jellies are moulded in various fanciful forms, the moulds for which 
are formed of tinned copper or block-tin, and may be procured at any 
housekeeping emporium. The jellies may be moulded at any time before 
using, after having been bottled or kept in jars, by simply melting and 
pouring into the moulds previously soaked in cold water. To remove 
from the mould set them in hot water for a moment. Additional flavors 
may be added at this time. 

Jellies should be kept in glass jars or tumblers, and may be filled 
with the boiling liquid without cracking them, if. previously greased on 
the outside with a little butter or lard and pouring in the first spoon or 
two slowly. Cover with writing paper cut to fit, pressed . closely over 
the jelly, and put on the lid or cover with thick paper, rubbed over on 
the inside with the white of an egg. 



126 

Jelly needs more attention in damp or rainy weather than in other. 
It should be examined occasionally, and if there are any signs of fer- 
mentation reboil and strain. r 

527. Calves Foot Stock for Jellies — It should be made at 
least one day before it is required for use, so it may be well cooled, and 
all fat can then be more thoroughly removed. Procure two nicely- 
dressed calves feet, wash them, remove the fat from between the toes, 
and put into six pints cold water, which gradually bring to a boil, re- 
moving all scum as it rises. Boil it gently six to seven hours, until the 
water is reduced about half, then strain it through a sieve into a basin, 
and place in a cool place to set. When straining, measure the liquor. 
To clarify it remove all fat from the top, and pour over a little warm 
water to remove any remaining, and wipe the jelly with a clean cloth. 
Remove the jelly from all sediment, and put it in a sauce-pan; add to 
it six ounces loaf sugar (to the quart), the shells and well-beaten whites 
of five eggs, stirring all together cold; set all on the fire, and do not 
stir it after it commences to warm; ten minutes after it rises to a head, 
and kept boiling, throw in a cup cold water, let it boil five minutes 
longer and take it off the fire; closely cover the sauce-pan and let it 
stand half an hour near the fire; wring the jelly-bag out in hot water 
quite dry, hang it on the back of a chair near the fire, place a bowl 
underneath to catch the jelly, and pour it into the bag; should it not 
be clear the first time run it through again. This stock is the base for 
all good meat jellies, and by the addition of wine, liquors and coloring, 
or by moulding with fresh or preserved fruits, a great variety of jellies 
may be produced. Larger quantities produced by using larger propor- 
tions. Two calves' feet should make a quart of stock. To insure its 
jellying sufficiently hard, a half ounce of isinglass or gelatine can be 
added. 

528. Fruit Jellies — To extract the juice place the fruit in a 
kettle with just enough water to keep from burning, stir often and let 
it remain on the fire until sufficiently scalded; or, perhaps a better but 
slower method is to place it in a stone jar, set in a kettle of warm water 
and boil until the fruit is well moistened, stirring often and then strain 
through the jelly-bag, emptying and thoroughly rinsing it each time it 
is used. Two or three pints of jelly is all that should be made at once, 
as larger quantities require much longer boiling. The rule is to use 
equal quantities of juice and sugar. Boil the juice rapidly ten minutes 
from the first moment of boiling, add the sugar and boil ten minutes 
longer. The larger fruits, as apples and quinces, should be cut in 
pieces, the cores and all defects removed; water added to just cover 
and boiled gently until tender. Jelly may be tested by dropping into 
a glass of cold water; if it at once sinks to the bottom it is done. 

PRESERVES. 

Note — Preserves are any kind of fruit or vegetables which it is 
desirable or may be kept by means of drying or in a syrup, formed 
wholly or in part with sugar, according to the nature of the material to 



127 

be preserved. Keep all fruits to be preserved in an ice-house or refriger- 
ator until required, and they will remain plump and fresh several days. 
Fruit gathered in wet or foggy weather will be nearly worthless for 
preserving. Preserves should be only gently boiled to avoid danger of 
burning. For clear or transparent syrups, refined sugar should be used, 
although the darker shades may be clarified. The longer it is boiled 
the thicker will be its consistency. A solution of two parts of sugar to 
one of water, and boiling but little, will afford a syrup of the right 
strength to neither ferment or crystallize; another in the proportion 
of half a pint of water to a pound of sugar is also used for most fruits. 

Formerly it was considered that an equal weight of sugar was 
required to preserve fruit; but, since the introduction of hermetically 
sealed jars or cans, a half to three-quarters of a pound is deemed suffi- 
cient when so put up. 

Fruits, except as mentioned, require to be prepared by boiling 
until sufficiently tender for the syrup to penetrate. Some fruits, as 
apples, peaches, tomatoes, plums, strawberries, that are likely to become 
too soft by previous boiling, may have the sugar strewn over them and 
allowed to stand a few hours, when they are scalded and canned or put in 
jars. Another method to also retain the original hardness of the fruit, 
is to take it out of the syrup after boiling a few minutes and place it 
in the sun for two or three hours, and then pour over it the boiling 
syrup. Other fruits, as pears, citrons or quinces, harden when put into a 
thick syrup equal to their weight in sugar, to obviate which they may 
be cooked until tender in a weaker syrup, made with only a portion of 
the sugar and the remainder afterwards added. Jams and marmalades 
are of the same nature as preserves, differing but little from each other, 
being preserves of a half liquid consistency made by boiling the pulp 
of the fruit with sugar. Jams are made from the more juicy berries 
and currants, as blackberries, raspberries and mulberries. Marmalades 
are compounded with the firmer fruits — pineapples, peaches, quinces 
and the rinds of oranges. 

Preserves may be packed for keeping in tin, glass or earthenware, 
cans, bottles or jars. It is a good plan to fill a small can or jar for 
present use, to prevent opening the larger ones too frequently. 

529. Clarified Syrup — A clarified syrup is produced by dis- 
solving two pounds of refined sugar, not necessarily white, unless 
desired for white fruits, in a pint of water; add to it the white of an 
tgg y and beat it well; put it in a preserving-pan on the fire, and stir 
with a wooden spoon. As soon as it begins to swell and boil up throw 
in a little cold water or sweet oil to dampen; let it boil up again, take 
it off, and remove all scum; boil again; throw in more cold water; 
remove scum, and repeat if necessary. It maybe considered sufficiently 
boiled when it pours off the spoon like oil. 

530. Dried Preserves — Any of the fruits that have been 
preserved in syrup may be converted into dry preserves, by first drain- 
ing them from the syrup and then drying them slowly on the stove, 
strewing them thickly with powdered sugar. They should be turned 
every few hours, sifting over them more sugar. 




THE 





680 W. Lake Street, 



Three Doors West of Wood, 



Is the Place for the Best Quality of 



* 



MEATS 



Etc., at Reasonable Prices. 



•<► 



C. MACKNESS, Proprietor. 



CHOICE 

BUTTERS EG jjS 

A SPECIALTY. 




345, 347 & 349 State St.; Branch, 433 State St., 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL 

Bakers* Confe ctioners 

Ornamented Cakes and Pyramids for Parties and 
Weddings supplied at the shortest notice. 



TEA, COFFEE, CHOCOLATE, ETC. 

Tea — Note — The botanical name of. the shrub or tree is Camillia 
TJiea. Neither its origin nor the date of its first cultivation in China is 
now known. The teas of China are classed as black and green — dis- 
tinctions not of different species of the plant, but to the age of the leaf, when 
gathered, and method of preservation. Each has several sub-varieties, 
named from the district from which produced, or some peculiarity in 
the article itself. The quality of tea depends greatly upon the age of 
the leaf at the time of picking, the younger the leaves the more delicate 
the flavor. Of black teas are Bohea, Congou, Souchong, Caper, Oolong, 
Pekoe and others, the highest quality of which is Pekoe, and the 
coarsest, Bohea. When the leaves are so very young as to be covered 
with a down, it constitutes the Flowery Pekoe. The green teas com- 
prise Twankay, Young Hyson, Old Hyson, Hyson Skin, Imperial and 
Gunpowder, the latter being the first gathering and the finest. Impe- 
rial, Young and Old Hyson are grades from second and third pickings, 
while the inferior light leaves winnowed from the Hysons form the 
Hyson Skin. Of the teas of Japan, they are classed according to manner 
of curing, as basket-fired, pan-fired and sun-dried; are grown in two 
crops, the spring and fall, the latter being the best. Originally, Japanese 
teas were uncolored, but now they have quite as much coloring added as 
those of China, while they lack the body of the latter. 

Teas are subject to various adulterations, both in China and the 
countries where sold, including the mixing of different qualities, color- 
ing, and other treatment, to improve the appearance of different kinds. 

The most important constituent of tea is theine, identical with caffe- 
ine, the active principal of coffee. Genuine teas have also 20 to 40 per 
cent, of tannic acid, which gives the tea its astringency, but the aroma 
and a large share of the flavor is dependent upon the amount of aro- 
matic oil and theine to be extracted. When tea is infused too long the 
tannic acid is developed, and is denoted by marked astringency. In 
England and America sugar and milk or cream, one or both, are gen- 
erally added, but by many it is thought to detract from the flavor of 
fine teas, rather than to be a desirable addition. 

531. Tea Dust, now generally kept on sale by grocers and tea 
dealers, is the siftings of finer grades of tea carefully saved and imported. 
While afforded at a much less price than regular tea, it is much stronger 
and usually superior to cheap grades of tea. The chief objection to its 
use is its pulverized condition. This may be obviated, however, by the 
use of a wire tea-ball, or a bag suspended in the pot similar to that sug- 
gested for coffee; or it may be poured through a fine strainer to the cups. 
Much less is required for the production of good tea than the regular leaf. 

532* Tea Making — Is not a difficult process, a few simple direc- 
tions being observed. The hotter tea is served the better, and is worthless 
and insipid when but warm. A teaspoon of the leaf to each person 
and one over is the rule in using teas of ordinary quality, and it may 
here be observed that the better grades, and consequent higher priced 



130 

teas, possessing the greater amount of the constituents of good tea, are 
really trie most economical to use. The pot or urn should be well 
warmed with hot water, letting it stand two or three minutes, and then 
either used to also warm the cups or discharged. Put in the tea, and 
add a half to three-quarters pint of boiling water; let it stand to draw, 
but not boil, from five to ten minutes (some consider a medium of 
seven minutes about right), and then fill up with boiling water. When 
there is a large party to provide for, it is better to have two tea-pots, 
instead of having a large quantity in one. The infusion being once 
completed, the addition of fresh tea will add very little to its strength, 
so it is much better to commence anew when more is required. The 
character of the water also influences the quality of the tea, it being 
impossible to make really good tea with hard water. Excess of lime 
in the water may be corrected by the use of a little carbonate of soda, 
and some think it assists in extracting the better qualities of the tea. 
For mixed teas, the proportion used is generally four teaspoons of 
black to one of green ; more of the latter when that flavor is desired 
to predominate. The remarks concerning the coffee-pot or urn will 
equally apply to the tea-pot. 

533. Iced Teas — Are now served to considerable extent during 
the summer months. They are of course used without milk, and the 
addition of sugar serves only to destroy the finer tea flavor. It may 
be prepared some hours in advance, and should be made stronger than 
when served hot. It is bottled and placed in the ice-chest till required. 
Use the black or green teas, or both, mixed, as fancied. 

534* Coffee — Note — The cultivation of this esteemed berry is 
widely diffused throughout the tropical belt nearly around the world. Its 
name is said to be derived from Kaffa, a district lying south of Abyssinia, 
where it was first cultivated and used as a beverage. In most countries 
it is picked by hand; but in Arabia it is left to ripen until nearly ready to 
fall. This may be one reason for its strong and superior flavor. The 
active principle of coffee is caffeine, and is employed to some extent in 
medicine. Coffee possesses considerable nourishing qualities, and both 
tea and coffee produce an agreeable, exhilarating effect, being a stimu- 
lant without being an intoxicant. When taken in quantities or quite 
strong, it produces wakefulness and is not beneficial to the system. 
The popular taste; like that for tea, is very extended, those of strong 
flavor being most in demand. 

Of the different coffees imported here, Java and Mocha rank the 
highest with connoisseurs, and are generally used mixed in the propor- 
tion of four to six ounces of Mocha to the pound. The bulk of all 
coffee used in this country is Rio, Santos, or those of South or Central 
American production. The former possesses a strong but not delicate 
flavor, while the latter are milder. The West India islands produce 
fine coffees, which are known under their respective names, as San Sal- 
vador, Costa Rica, La Guara, etc. 

535* Ground Coffee — As it is rather generally believed that all 
put up or ground coffees sold in bulk are more or less adulterated with 
peas, carrots, chiccory or more harmful substances, the safest way is to 



13* 

either purchase the green berry and brown it yourself, or freshly browned 
and ground at the time it is bought; a small quantity frequently, that 
it may not lose the flavor before consumed. Some persons like the 
flavor of chiccory, and it may be purchased of itself and mixed with 
good coffee in the proportion of a teaspoon to each quarter of a pound. 
A good substitute is also browned and ground carrot, using two tea- 
spoons to same quantity of coffee as above. 

To test the genuineness of ground coffee, take a pinch between the 
wetted finger and thumb, roll it, and if pure it will remain in grains; if 
adulterated it will form into a ball. 

When freshly browned coffee may not be obtained, the following 
French method is probably the best for roasting, as it is said to develop 
the strength and flavor more thoroughly. 

536. To Roast Coffee — Pick over, wash, and dry enough for a 
week only, and to each three pounds add a lump of good butter, the size 
of a large hickory nut, when the coffee is hot; roast in a revolving 
roaster, which, if constantly turned, will roast more evenly than by stir- 
ring in a dripping-pan. If no regular roaster is convenient, brown it in 
the oven, or on the top of the stove or range, watching and stirring con- 
tinually, that it may not burn; a single berry when burned will taint the 
whole mass, and the flavor, which is very volatile, pervade the whole 
house. It should be roasted evenly a dark rich brown, and should be 
tested frequently, by placing a kernel on the table, pressing it with the 
thumb, and if tender and brittle, so it crushes easily, it is done. When 
roasted properly it will grind into particles, distinct and granulated. 
Coffee swells about one-third in bulk, and loses about sixteen per cent, 
in roasting. When roasted, keep in an air-tight tin can or box, and 
grind only medium fine the quantity needed, immediately before using. 

537. To Make Coffee — To extract and retain the greatest amount 
of aroma is the great object to be attained in coffee making, and to effect 
this in the most effectual manner opinions differ. Many consider that 
percolation, filtering, or leeching is the best process, and to this end 
there are many contrivances, both in this country and in England and 
France, among which may be mentioned the French biggin, the English 
syphon iron, the National or old Dominion coffee-pot, the coffee and 
tea- press, and many others, all of which filter or leech hot water through 
ground coffee, and most of them produce a clear, rich fluid, probably 
as near perfect as possible. The theory is that by boiling, the finest 
and greater part of the aroma escapes in the vapor. 

To the filtering process many object on economical grounds, 
urging that not more than half the virtue of the coffee is extracted, 
and hence it takes very much more than by slightly boiling. The fol- 
lowing method partakes of both, and also obviates the purchase of an 
expensive utensil. H 

Take an ordinary coffee-pot, the spout having a tight-fitting cover; 
form a ring of thick wire that will fit just outside the top of the pot, 
leaving a space for the hinge, if any ; to this attach a thin but stout 
muslin bag, wider at the bottom than top, and reaching to within two 
inches of the bottom; the seams should be lapped and doubly-stitched, 



132 

that none of the ground coffee may escape into the pot ; warm the pot 
thoroughly with boiling water and empty; place the bag containing the 
quantity of ground coffee required, and pour over it gradually boiling 
water; when it has filtered through it may then be served, or brought 
to a boil first, as desired ; remove the bag before sending to table, using the 
same pot. The quantity of coffee to use depends much on the kind or 
quality, but a heaping table-spoon, or half an ounce, is usually sufficient 
for each person, with one over if there are several. 

Coffees that are not made in either of the above methods, but the 
coffee put directly into the pot, boil rather fast for three to five minutes, 
and then set back on the stove for ten or fifteen minutes longer. Coffee 
may be cleared or settled by the addition of part of the white of an egg y 
egg-shells, or cod-fish skin, mixed with or put in at same time as the 
coffee; or a dash of cold water and letting it stand a minute after, will 
also clear it. Good cream, instead of milk, will make even an inferior 
coffee quite drinkable. Milk should always be served hot, and an egg 
beaten in it just before serving will add greatly to its richness. It should 
be previously mixed w T ith a few spoons cold milk. Coffee without either 
milk or cream is said to be the most wholesome, especially for persons 
of weak digestion. Both coffee and tea pots or urns should be kept 
excessively clean, and once a week boil a little borax in them, with 
enough water to cover the whole inside. Never wash them inside. It 
is quite sufficient to rinse them in two or three waters, and as soon 
after being used as possible it should be done. 

538. Cafe Noir or Black Coffee — Is an after-dinner beverage, 
generally believed to promote digestion; it is made very strong,using nearly 
double the usual quantity of coffee, and is served in tiny cups fifteen or 
twenty minutes after dinner. Gentlemen frequently add a small quan- 
tiy of brandy or wine. It may be made by either of the above pro- 
cesses, but filtering is doubtless the best, as it more readily produces a 
very clear liquid. 

539. Chocolate and Cocoa — Are similar preparations from 
the beans, seeds or nibs of the cacoa, a species of the palm differing 
from the cocoa-nut tree, and producing large seed-bearing pods; these 
are roasted similar to coffee, and formed into a paste with (or without) 
sugar and some other ingredients, and sometimes flavored with a small 
portion of the vanilla bean. The plain, sweetened, or flavored may be 
procured in cakes or pulverized. Some of those now manufactured in 
this country are said to be equal, if not superior, to the French choco- 
late, long considered unrivalled. The shells or husks winnowed from 
the beans, called cocoa-shells, make a weaker beverage, sold principally 
for invalids or persons of poor digestion. Chocolate, when well made, 
forms a nutritive and salutary beverage. 

540. Broma — Is a similar preparation from the cocoa-nut, and 
sold in packages ready ground. Its use is confined chiefly to invalids 
and children, to whom the oil in chocolate or cocoa is either not bene- 
ficial or distasteful. 

Proper directions for use usually accompany either of the above 
preparations. 



THE CENTENNIAL AMERICAN 



\J± 



DEALERS IN FINE 



Teas, Coffees, Sugars # Spices, 

678 W. LAKE STREET. 

Principal Warehouse and Goffee Roasting Establishment: 49 Yesey St., New York. 

*ALLARl> 

81 Madison Street, Chicago. 

ALLARD IS 



At the above number and a resident of Chicago, pursuing the same business 
for many years. He is the proprietor of the celebrated hat known as the 
"DRALLARD," and which has extended reputation for style, material and 
best workmanship. 

ALLARD is not a Cheap John. He sells the best of goods, and if his hats 
fail to give satisfaction from fault of material or manufacture, he replaces them 
free of charge. ■ 




Caters to the trade which demands first-class 
goods. If that is your style, he respectfully 




solicits your patronage, and will show you a 
fine line of 

Hats, Caps f Furs 

IN THEIR SEASON. 



THE LIGHT-RUNNING 




is for Sale by Dealers everywhere. 

ASK YOUR FRIENDS THAT ALREADY HAVE 
ONE, WHAT THEY THINK OF IT. 




In use in over 560,000 Families! ,-wj&- -=: -».=- 

It has the most handsome appearance and the most perfect attachments* 
Every Machine warranted for 5 years. 

NEW HOME SEWING MACHINE CO., 

248 State Street, Chicago. 



Introduction- 

BREAD. 



Page. 
5-6 



11 Boston Brown 11 

12 Boston Brown 11 

95 Brown, Palmer House ... 22 

13 Corn, St. Charles Hotel. 11 

14 Corn 11 

15 Corn 11 

16 Corn, Steamed 11 

17 Corn, Boston 11 

8 To Cool 10 

18 Graham 11 

19 Graham and Indian 12 

9 Hop Yeast, Bread 10 

20 Rye , 12 

21 Bye... 12 

19 Ryeandlndian 12 

22 Salt Raised 12 

23 Sponge, for Winter 12 

10 Twice Raised 10 

7 Yeast Cake 10 

6 Hop 10 

3 Potato, from Stock 9 

4 Potato, with Hops 9 

5 Potato, without Hops. 9 

1 Stock 9 

2 Stock 9 

Breakfast and Tea Cakes. 

Note— Baking Powder, etc.. 13 

35 Biscuit 14 

36 Biscuit 14 

9 Hop Yeast. 10 

39 Soda 14 

40 South Carolina 15 

37 Hard, Sugar H 

38 Soft, Sugar 14 

49 Buns 16 

60 Buns 16 

51 Buns, London Hot Cross 16 
34 Cake, Cinnamon 14 

61 Crackers, Egg 18 

60 Crackers, French 18 

48 Cracknells 16 

69 Corn Dodgers 17 

47 Crumpets, English 16 

24 Gems, Graham 13 

25 Graham 13 

28 Indian 13 

27 Sweet Milk 13 

26 Wheaten 13 

55 Johnny Cake 17 

66 Johnny Cake 17 

58 Alabama 17 

67 New England 16 

31 Muffins, Corn 13 

30 Graham 13 

29 Wheat 13 

33 Popovers 14 

32 Puffet 14 

43 Rolls, Coffee 15 

44 Egg 15 

45 Long Breakfast 15 

41 Parker House 15 

42 Vienna 15 

62 Rusk 17 

53 Rusk 17 

54 Lebanon 17 

46 Sally Lunn 16 

62 Toast, Economical 18 

63 Excellent 18 

Griddle or Batter Cakes. 

82 Batter 21 

79 Bread.. 20 

77 Buckwheat 20 

78 Same, without Yeast 20 

81 Corn 20 

83 Flannel <?t 

84 Graham 21 

80 Huckleberry 20 



INDEX. 



No. Page, 

85 Rice 21 

88 Pancakes, French 21 

86 Hotel Wellington 21 

87 Indian 21 

Batter and Fried Cakes. 

89 Doughnuts 22 

90 Fritters, Thomaston 22 

90 A Sauce for 22 

92 Apple 22 

93 Apple 22 

94 Cream 22 

91 Queen 22 

71 Waffles 19 

70 Baking Powder 19 

72 Another 19 

76 Massasoit House 20 

74 Raised 20 

75 Rice 20 

73 Quick 20 

Farinaceous Dishes. 

68 Cracked Wheat 19 

69 Grits or Hominy 19 

64 Mush, Cornmeal 18 

65 Graham 18 

66 Oatmeal 18 

67 Oatmeal, Steamed 19 

BEEF. 
Note, to select, general 
directions to cook, etc ..... 25 
99 Beef, a la Mode 26 

129 Cakes 31 

104 Corned 27 

103 Boiled 26 

105 Pressed 27 

114 Hash 29 

127 Cortland 30 

113 Croquettes of 28 

107 En Ragout 27 

109 Fricassee of Cold 

Roast 28 

111 Pie 28 

112 And Potatoe Pie 28 

124 Potted 30 

98 Ragout of 26 

96 Roast 25 

108 Tomato Sauce.... 28 

130 Round of 31 

202 1 A Stuffing for 49 

97 With Pudding 25 

110 Stewed 28 

126 Stewed, Chipped 30 

106 Spiced Beef Relish 27 

100 Beefsteak, Broiled 26 

101 Fried 26 

102 And Onions 26 

125 Staffordshire 30 

128 Filet, Chateaubriand.... 31 

131 Hamburger Steak 31 

132 Hamburg Steak 31 

115 Beef-tongue Hash 29 

116 Boiled 29 

117 Spiced 29 

118 Calves Liver, Broiled... 29 

119 Calves or Beef Liver, 

Fried 29 

123 Chipolata 30 

120 Tripe, Fried 30 

121 Fried in Batter 30 

122 Fricasseed 30 

MUTTON AND 1AIB. 

Note, to select, to keep, to 

cook 33 

Mutton. 

133 Boiled, Caper Sauce 33 

134 Leg a la Venison 33 

135 Chops, Broiled 33 

136 Fried 34 

137 Fried 34 



No. Pace. 

138 Harricot of 34 

139 And Rice 34 

140 And Tomato Sauce... 34 
. 141 Pie with Tomatoes 34 

143 Scrambled Mutton 34 

142 Shepherd's Pie 34 

144 Mutton and Potato Pie.. 34 
Lamb. 

Note 

150 A la Matelot 

147 Broiled Breast of. . 

148 Chops, Broiled 

149 Scallop 

146 Stewed with Peas.. 

145 With Mint Sauce.... 



34 
, 35 
35 
35 
35 
35 
35 

37 
38 
38 
38 
38 
38 
38 
37 
37 
37 



PORK, 

Note 

155 Pork Chops 

157 Pork, Fried, Salt 

158 Fried, Salt 

159 Grilled, Salt 

160 And Beans, Yankee.. 
154 Steaks, Fried 

151 Stuffed and Roasted. 

152 Roast Spare-rib 

153 Roast Sucking Pig... 

156 Tenderloin. 3g 

Ham. 

Note 39 

161 Ham, Boiled 39 

162 Broiled.. 39 

163 Broiled 39 

164 And Eggs, Fried 39 

VEAL. 

Note, to select, etc & 

174 Veal, Cold, with To- 
matoes 42 

168 Cutlets, fried 42 

166 Gravy for Roast 41 

175 Patties 43 

167 Pie 41 

171 Pot-pie 42 

170 Ragout of 42 

165 Roast Loin of 41 

169 Stew 42 

173 Toast 42 

172 With Oysters 42 

176 Sweetbreads, to select 
and prepare 43 

177 Broiled 43 

178 Fried , 43 

179 Fricasseed 43 

180 With Green Peas 43 

POULTRY AND GAMK. 

POULrTftY. 

181 Chicken, Baked 45 

182 Baked, with parsnips 45 

183 Boiled 45 

184 Broiled 45 

185 Fried, Spring 45 

186 Fricasseed 46 

187 Fricasseed 46 

188 Lunch for Traveling.. 46 

189 Pie 46 

190 Pot-pie 46 

191 Puree of 46 

192 Salmi of 47 

193 Oyster Croquettes 47 

194 Salad 47 

202 A Stuffing for 49 

195 Turkey, Roast, Oyster 
Stuffing 47 

196 Roast, English style. 48 

197 Boned 48 

198 Boiled, Oyster Stuf- 
fing 48 

205 Deviled 49 

199 Goose, Roast 49 



Ho. Pag«, 

200 Goose, Deviled 49 

212 Duck, Roast 61 

202 A Stuffing for 49 

203 Boiled 49 

204 Pie 49 

Game. 
Note— Rule for Cooking, etc. 4 
Note— A Hint to Sportsmen 53 
210 Duck, Wild, To Select, 

etc 5( 

212 Roast, Tame or Wild 51 

213 Game Pie 51 

209 Goose, Roast Wild 5( 

214 Prairie Chicken or 

Pheasant, Roasted.. 51 

215 Same, Broiled 51 

226 Pigeons 53 

227 Pot-pie 53 

228 Compote of 53 

229 Plover, Broiled 53 

216 Quail, Roast 52 

184 Broiled 45 

217 On Toast 52 

224 Rabbit 53 

225 Roasted 53 

218 Reed Birds, Roast 52 

219 Au Pomme deTerre. 52 

220 Snipe : 52 

223 Squirrel, to Prepare and 

Cook 53 

215 Broiled 51 

221 Woodcock, to Broil 52 

221 To Roast 52 

222 Fried 52 

206 Venison, to Choose 50 

206 To Keep £>0 

206 To Cook 50 

207 Roast Saddle 50 

208 Roast Haunch 50 

FISH. 

Note— Fish, To Select, etc... 55 

230 Fish, Boiled or Steamed, 

General Directions... 55 

231 Steamed , 56 

232 Codfish, Boiled, Fresh.. 56 

233 Boiled, Fresh 56 

234 Broiled, Fresh 56 

235 Salt, a la Mode 66 

236 Salt, Stewed 56 

237 Picked. 56 

238 Minced Fresh 57 

239 Cod, AuFromage 57 

240 Codfish Balls 57 

241 Salmon, Trout or Pick- 

erel, Baked 57 

242 White Fish or Shad, 

Baked 57 

244 Broiled 58 

213 White Fish, Boiled 58 

245 Salt, Broiled 58 

246 Fish, Fried 58 

250 Stewed 59 

249 Pan 59 

253 Chowder 59 

247 Brook Trout 58 

255 Haddock, Crumbed 59 

256 Halibut, Pickled 60 

251 Mackerel, Boiled, Salt. 59 

252 Broiled, Salt 59 

254 Salmon Gratin 69 

248 Smelts, Fried 59 

SHELL FISH. 

Note— Oysters, Varieties, to 

Select, to Keep, etc.. 60 
259 Oysters, Baked in Shell 61 

262 Boiled in Shell 61 

263 Broiled in Shell 61 

264 Broiled, Count 61 

265 Broiled 61 

282 Broiled 64 

283 Fricasseed 64 



No. Page. 

291 Oyster Croquettes 65 

294 Oysters, Deviled 65 

288 Escalloped 65 

278 Fried 63 

280 Fried 63 

281 Fried 63 

279 Boston Fry 63 

290 Oyster Fritters 65 

266 Grilled, with Pork. ... 62 

269 Panned 62 

270 Panned 62 

292 Patties 65 

293 Patties 65 

284 Pie 64 

285 Pie 64 

286 Pie 64 

287 Pie 64 

260 Raw, on Half Shell... 61 

261 Raw, without Shell.. 61 

257 Oysters, Roast in Shell. 60 

258 Fulton Market Roast 61 

267 Steamed, Shell 62 

268 Steamed, Count 62 

271 Stew 62 

272 Stew 62 

276 Boston Fancy 63 

275 Dry Stew 63 

274 Stew, in Milk or 

Cream 63 

277 Stew, Neptune 63 

273 Stew, Plain 62 

289 With Veal 65 

Note— Clams, varieties, etc. 65 

295 Clam Chowder — New 

Bedford recipe 66 

296 Clam Chowder 66 

299 Fried 66 

300 Fried, Breaded 66 

302 Fritters -Hotel Wel- 

lington 67 

303 Fritters 67 

301 ' Pie 67 

297 Stew 66 

298 And Oyster Stew 66 

Note— Lobsters 67 

304 Lobsters, Boiled 67 

306 Croquettes. 08 

307 Deviled 08 

308 Scalloped 68 

305 Steamed 68 

309 Crabs 68 

310 Soft Shell 68 

31 L Long Island Style 69 

312 Deviled 69 

313 Shrimps 69 

314 Terrapin, Maryland 

Style 69 

Note— Frogs. 09 

315 Fried 09 

316 Stewed 09 

VEGETABLES, 

Note— General Directions, 
Selection and 
Cooking 71 

317 Asparagus 71 

318 To Cook 72 

319 Another method 72 

320 Beans 72 

321 Butter or Wax 72 

325 Dry 73 

325 To Boil 73 

325 With Pork or Bacon 73 

323 Green, String, etc 72 

322 String 72 

324 Green, Shelled 72 

326 Boston Baked 73 

327 Baked 73 

328 Beets, to Prepare, to 

Cook, to Pickle 73 

329 Roasted 74 

330 Harvest 74 

331 Stewed 74 

332 Broccoli 74 



No. page. 

333 Cabbage, to Select, etc.. 74 

333 To Boil 74 

334 Heidelberg 74 

335 South Carolina 74 

336 Stuffed 75 

337 Carrots, to Prepare 75 

338 To Boil 75 

339 Stewed. 75 

340 Cauliflower, to Select, 
Clean, Boil, etc 75 

341 Corn, Green 75 

342 Boiled 75 

343 Stewed 75 

344 Oysters 76 

345 Fritters or Moc k O y s- 
ters >i6 

346 Cucumbers, Raw 76 

347 Boiled and Fried 76 

348 Egg Plant, Fried 70 

349 Breaded and Fried... 70 

350 Greens, To Prepare, to 
Cook 77 

351 Mushrooms, Varietieg, 
to Cook 77 

352 Okra 17 

353 Onions, Varieties 77 

355 Baked 7s 

357 Beefsteak and 7^ 

354 Boiled 77 

356 Fried 78 

358 Oyster Plant 78 

359 Parsnips, boiled 78 

361 Fried 78 

360 Stewed 7s 

362 Peas, Green 7s 

363 In Cream 78 

364 Dry or Split 79 

Note — Potatoes, brief histo- 
ry, to Select, to Keep. 79 

- To Cook, etc 80 

366 AlaFrancaise 80 

365 A la Parisienne 80 

375 Balls 82 

372 Fried raw 81 

373 Fried boiled 81 

368 Kentucky style 81 

367 Lyonnaise 81 

374 Mashed 81 

374 Another Method 81 

371 Ringed 81 

369 Saratoga Chips 81 

376 Snow 82 

370 Tremont 81 

377 For each day of the 
week 82 

383 Pumpkin 83 

378 Sweet Potatoes, Origin, 
Varieties, etc 82 

378 To Cook- 83 

379 To Cook various 
ways 83 

380 Baked 83 

381 Salsify 83 

382 Squash, Summer 83 

383 Winter or Pumpkin.. 83 

383 Hubbard 83 

384 Tomato,Nativityof, Cul- 
tivation, to Select... 83 

385 Fresh, to serve Raw.. 84 

386 Baked 84 

387 Stewed 84 

388 Stuffed and baked.... 84 

389 Turnips 84 

390 Dried 84 

FOGS A M> MACARONI. 

Note — Eggs — Nutriment, 

Variety, etc 87 

To Select 87 

To Keep. 87 

391 Eggs— Boiled, Time, etc. 88 
397 Baked 90 

392 Omelets 89 

393 Plain Omelet 89 

394 Another Method 89 



No. Page. 

395 Eggs. Omelet, Souffle... 90 

396 Scrambled 90 

398 Macaroni 90 

400 Macaroni 90 

399 A la Riccadonna 90 

SOUPS AM) BROTHS. 

Note 93 

401 Soup Stock 93 

401 Seasonings, Ingre- 

dients, General Di- 
rections 93-94 

404 Bean, cheap and nu- 

tritious 95 

411 Chicken 96 

412 Chicken, with Rice... 96 

407 Economical 95 

402 English Game. 94 

410 Gumbo 96 

411 Gumbo 96 

403 Mock Turtle 95 

408 Potato 96 

405 Tomato 95 

406 Tomato 95 

409 Broth— Hulled Corn...... 96 

413 Force Meat Balls for 

Mock Turtle Soup... 96 
402 Force Meat Balls for 

Game Soups 94 

SALADS AXD DRESS- 
INGS. 
Note— General Directions ... 99 
Relishes. 

414 Celery 99 

415 Chiccory 99 

416 Cress or Water Cress.... 99 
415 Endive 99 

417 Horse Radish 99 

413 Lettuce 99 

419 Radishes 100 

420 Parsley 100 

422 Pepper Grass loo 

421 Sorrel loo 

Salads. 

425 Plain Cold Slaw 100 

423 Salad, Bean 100 

424 Cabbage 100 

426 " Chicken 100 

427 Chicken 100 

428 Chicken 100 

194 Chicken, without 

Ceiery 47 

429 Cucumber 100 

430 Lettuce !0i 

431 Lobster 101 

432 Potato (hot) 101 

433 Potato (cold) 101 

Dressings. 

435 Cabbage Salad 101 

434 Cream for Cold Slaw 101 

436 Mayonaise 101 

184 Gravy, Broiled Chicken 45 

185 For Fried Chicken ... 45 
181 For Roast Chicken.... 45 
203 For Ducks or Geese.. 49 

196 For Roast Turkey 48 

166 For Roast Veal 41 

202 Stuffing for Beef, Chick- 
ens or Ducks 49 

151 ForRoastPork 37 

153 For Roast Pig 37 

165 For Roast Veal 41 

PUDDINGS AND 
PASTRY. 

Puddings. 
Note — General Directions 103 

438 Apple Roley Poley 103 

440 BlancMange, Cornstarch 104 
440 A Custard for. 104 

437 Pudding, Apple 103 

443 Cheap and Delicious 104 



No. Pa-'i 

439 Pudding, Cabinet 104 

441 English Plum 104 

442 Rice, without Eggs... 104 

444 Rice, Meringue 104 

445 Plain Fruit Iu5 

446 Snow 105 

447 Suet 105 

448 Sweet 105 

97 Yorkshire 25 

Pastry. 
Note — General Directions... 105 

The Oven 106 

167 Crust for Meat Pies 41 

450 Puff Paste 106 

452 Pie, Apple Custard 107 

454 Cream 107 

455 Date 107 

457 Lemon 107 

456 Another, with Me- 

ringue 107 

459 Mock Mince 107 

460 Pumpkin 107 

460 Squash lo7 

458 Mince Meat... 107 

451 Patties, Shells for Tarts 106 

453 Tarts, Apple 107 

453 Meringue for same... 107 

CAKE ANI> COSFEC- 
TIONEKY. 

Cake. 
General Directions and In- 
gredients 109 

Oven, to Keep U0 

461 Cake, Coidwater Pound HO 

463 Delicious HO 

464 French Chocolate U0 

466 Lemon HO 

468 Marble HO 

471 Spice HI 

472 Sponge Ill 

473 Sponge— More simple 111 

474 Cream Frosting for... 112 

475 Hard or Plain IcingH2 

476 Soft Icing for H2 

462 Cookies, Cocoanut H° 

465 Jumbles HO 

467 Lemon Snaps HO 

469 Molasses Gingerbread.. .111 

470 Neapolitans Ill 

Confectionery. 
Note 112 

480 Butter Scotch 113 

478 Candies, Various .112 

485 Candy, Hoarhound 113 

481 Ice Cream 113 

486 Molasses 113 

479 Rock 113 

487 Caramel, or Burnt Sugai 113 

482 Chocolate Caramels 113 

477 Clarifying Syrup 112 

483 Cocoanut Drops 113 

484 Hickory-nut Macaroons 113 

CUSTARDS, CREAMS 
Ai\D ICES. 

Note— Custards, general di- 
rections for produc- 
tion of all kinds. 115 

440 Custard, for blancmange 1<>4 

488 Ice Creams, varieties.. 115 
4>»9 Materials 115 

490 The Cream 115 

491 Neapolitan 116 

492 Philadelphia 116 

493 The Freezer for 116 

494 Freezing of 116 

497 Molding of 117 

495 Water Ices 117 

496 General directions 

for all varieties of... 117 

497 Molding of 117 

498 Granites or Frappes 117 



No. Page. 

499 Ice, Orange, Lemon, 

Strawberry, etc 117 

500 Pine-apple 117 

SAUCES, CATSUPS AHf D 
PICKLES. 

Sauces. 

Note— Sauces— General Re- 
marks upon 119 

507 Drawn Butter 120 

501 Sauce, Anchovy 119 

502 Apple 119 

503 Caper or Nasturtion 119 
604 Chili 119 

505 Chili 120 

506 Cranberry 120 

241 Egg, for Fish 57 

242 Fish 57 

90 For Fritters 22 

508 Green Tomato 120 

147 For Breast of Lamb.. 35 

509 Lemon 120 

616 Lemon, Hard 121 

510 Lobster 120 

511 Mayonnaise 120 

512 Mint 120 

145 Mint 35 

513 Oyster 121 

614 Oysters 121 

516 Orange, Hard 121 

617 Sweet, for Puddings. 121 
518 Sour, for Puddings... 121 
515 White 121 

Catsups. 
Note— To Make, to Keep 121 

520 Catsup, Mushroom. ;122 

521 Tomato 122 

PlCEIiES. 

Note — General Directions 

for Pickling 122 

622 Pickled Cucumbers 123 

523 Onions 123 

624 Picalilli 123 

625 Pickles, Sweet 143 

626 Sweet Pickle for Fruit.. 123 

JEEEIES AND PRE- 
SERVES. 

General Note on Sweet 

Compounds 125 

Note— Jellies, Fruits, Jelly - 

bag, to Keep., etc 125 

527 Jellies — Calves' Foot, 

Stock for 126 

528 Fruit 126» 

Note — Preserves— Fruits... 126 

Method to Keep 127 

Jams and Marmalades. 127 

529 Preserves-Clarified Syr- 

up for 127 

530 Dried 127 

TEA, COFFEE, CHO- 
COLATE, ETC. 

Note— Tea, General Be- 

marks 129 

531 Tea Dust 129 

532 Making 129 

533 Iced 130 

534 Coffee— Note 130 

5 5 Coffee, ground 130 

636 To Boast 131 

537 To Make by Filtering 

Process 131 

537 Other Methods 131 

537 Coffee or Tea Pots, to 

Cleanse 132 

638' CafeNoirorBlackCoffeel32 
539 Chocolate or Cocoa 132 

539 Cocoa Shells 132 

540 Broma 132 



•KTHE ONLY^ 



*gm%WT b®mw 



SUITABLE TO 



Remove Stains and Odors from the Hands 



-is- 




This Soap contains Pure Sweet Cream so saponified as to retain all 
the softening and healing properties of 

It will keep the skin soft and white, and prevent roughness 
where other soaps fail. 



MANUFACTURERS, 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



"The Great Rock Island Route" 

MAINTAINS THE LEAD AS THE PEOPLE'S FAVORITE BETWEEN 

CHICAGO AND PEORIA, ROCK ISLAND, DAVENPORT, 
DES MOINES, COUNCIL BLUFFS, OMAHA, LEAV- 
ENWORTH, ATCHISON AND KANSAS CITY. 



l * MINNEAPOLIS Ttrk^ST. PAUL 
Redwood rz*s&s®5B**&Cw1^^ed Wing 



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31 AW 






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Hc^ally & Coj 
CEngr'e, Chicago. ] 



ITS FAMOUS ADJUNCT 



u 



The Albert Lea Route" 



Which passes through the most fertile and picturesque region in the central West, is chosen 
by all who would enjoy the beautiful and travel in ease and comfort, between 

CHICAGO, MXBmRABO&I»®>8T. PAUL 

No Transfers made between Chicago and the Missouri River 

or the Upper Mississippi. 

Close connections are made in Union Depots with all of the Pacific Railroads, and tickets are 

sold to all points in 

KANSAS, NEBRASKA, COLORADO, NEW MEXICO, ARIZONA, CALL 

FORNIA, OREGON, WASHINGTON TERRITORY, BRITISH 

COLUMBIA, NEVADA, UTAH, IDAHO, MONTANA, 

WYOMING, DAKOTA AND MANITOBA. 

2 THROUGH EXPRESS TRAINS EACH WAY DAILY. 

Parlor Chair Can. Pullman Palace Sleeping Cars. World Famous Dining Cars. 

R, R, CABLE, Pres't & Gen'l Manager. E, ST, JOHN, Gen'ITkl&Pass, Agt. 




••• THE ••• 

GROCER 

79 & 81 State Street, Chicago, III. 

TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 

The economical, thrifty and close buyers will make no mistake in perusing 
our Catalogue and Price-Current, and more particularly notice brands and 
prices as enumerated. There are no two jobbing houses in the city that carry 
as large varieties of Staple and Fancy Groceries, Green and Dried 
Fruits, Flour, Wines, Liquors, Cigars, etc., and make as many cash 
sales each day. All goods in original packages are sold as close as any jobber 
offers the same brands. 

Our trade extends over Western Pennsylvania, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wis- 
consin, Michigan, Minnesota, Iowa, Missouri, Texas, Kansas, Nebraska, the 
Territories, and all Post-Trader Depots. 

N.B. — A complete catalogue sent on application. 






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AMERICA 

A continual Panorama of Magnificent Scenery from the Lakes to the Seaboard. The Elegant 

Pullman Service via the 

EEIE BAIL^TiLY" 

And its Connections is unsurpassed by any Route to or from the East. 

IF ON A BUSINESS TRIP, TAKE THE ERIE, 

IF ON A PLEASURE TRIP, TAKE THE ERIE, 

UNDER ALL CIRCUMSTANCES, TAKE THE ERIE, 

And you will travel over a Railway unequalled in facilities for Comfort and Safety. 



JNO. N. ABBOTT, 

Gen'lPaw. A^.Mir, NEW YOP.K. 



W. H. HXJRLBURT, 

GenM Western Pass. Agent, CHICAGO 



THE 



Chicago and Atlantic 

RAILWAY 

IS NOT EXCELLED, IF EQUALLED, 

BY ANY OTHER ROAD IN THE WORLD. 

SOLID TRAINS 

Tlie finest ever built, run between New York and Chicago, and Chicago and 

New York, daily, via the Erie Railway, without change for any class 

of passengers. Also, new Pullman Sleeping Cars between 

CHICAGO AND BOSTON, VIA ALBANY. 



This is the only line running a " solid" train between the above cities. By 

the term " solid " we mean the entire train — baggage car, first and 

second-class coaches, smoking car and sleeping cars. The 

trains are of uniform external appearance ; the interior 

is the perfection of railroad appointment. Even 

THE SMOKING CARS 

Among- other novelties, contain a B-TJEFET, where the traveler may 

LUNCH AT HIS LEISURE. 



The trains are fitted with every appliance for 

S-^^EOTE- a,rLd. COILvCIFOIEBT 

That the requirements of modern travel have prompted inventive 
genius to provide. 



The Sleeping-, Drawing- Room and Thoroughfare Coaches are simply Models of 
Elegance, and are Lig-hted with the brilliant 

PINTSCH GASLIGHT. 



In short, the construction, equipment and service of 

The Chicago & Atlantic 

with the advantages it enjoys in connections and time between the 

EAST .A-ILTID WEST, 

Necessarily make it the favorite THROUGH LINE to and from the 
Atlantic Seaboard. 

B. F. POPPLE, S. W. SNOW, 

Gen'l Eastern Passenger Agent, Gen'l Passenger Agent, 

336 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. CHICAGO. 



"One-Third of Life is Spent in Bed." 




TO SECURE COMFORT, BUY THE 



Leader * MetalliG * Bed * Spring 

Patented April io, 1883. 

IT IS THJ<: BEST, because: 

First. — Being made entirely of Iron and Steel, it is INSECT PROOF. 

Second. — The upper wire of the spiral is DOUBLE-LOOPED ; cannot 
spread under pressure ; retains its shape, strength and elasticity. 

Third.— The spirals are firmly riveted at the bottom, and at the top are 
held in position by chains. 

Fourth. — The two parts of the cross-bands are connected by pieces of 
spring steel, so that the Bed Spring can be FOLDED DOUBLE. 

Fifth. — A child ten years of age can handle it. 

Sixth.— It is INDESTRUCTIBLE. 

On application, by mail or otherwise, we will send and take measure of Bed- 
stead. Sold on approval, subject to easy payments, or discount for cash. 
SATISFACTION GUARANTEED. 



WELLS &G BIR/O., 

197 Desplaines Street, Chicago. 






119 



AT RETAIL 



^PAPER^ 
HANGINGS 



OF 



Every Variety. 



John J. McGrath, 



106, 108, 110, 112 Wabash Ave. 



CHICAGO. 






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